Insulation for finishing basement with steam heat?
Michelle Flaherty
6 years ago
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chiflipper
6 years agoRelated Discussions
Heating options for Finished Basement
Comments (14)The idea of using a water heat to provide hot water for a hydronic system isn't new and basically involves adding a circulating pump and a thermostatically controlled valve. Because water heaters aren't designed for this purpose there are a few drawbacks. The water temperature is considerably lower than what would come out of a traditional boiler so the heat output of the baseboard (or wall unit) will be less. You could raise the temperature of the water heater but then you'd have to add a mixing valve to prevent anyone taking a shower from being scalded. At the beginning and end of each heating season you'll need to make adjustments to water temperature and the mixing valve. There's also the, somewhat unknown, question of capacity -- what happens to your basement heat when someone takes a shower or what happens in the shower when the basement heat kicks on? Assuming you have a forced hot air sytem now, adding a few vents to the basement will probably keep you comfortable and will likely be the cheapest solution. As mentioned you could do a direct vent fireplace or space heater. Electric baseboard tends to be the least expensive to install and the most expensive to use....See MoreFinished Basement Band Joist Insulation
Comments (9)Wow! I really appreciate your thoughts. fnmroberts: "do not cover any open ventilation openings" Just want to make sure I understand. We do have a cold air return on the outside wall that I want to fill/stop the 1" - 2" gap at the top of the cinderblock and drywall. Right now, cold air shoots up between that void actually blowing cold air into the room. Is that the open ventilation you meant? worthy/homebound: I would give the professional spray foam option an A+. I even looked into a DIY option but backed away cause it has a high screw up value for me. I won't go into detail about our lack of cash (think orthodontics/root canal and crown) at Christmas ... so, can I get a "B" grade by filling in that void and then use an R-19 or higher insulation? Has anyone used Safetouch insulation? I had to laugh at the "holding the cans upside down" and how "great stuff" is not. I watched my husband create some wild abstract art with that stuff. I'm actually using this daptex insulating foam when I can reach the gaps I'm finding. It actually does clean up with water (I used a pipe cleaner for the straw), has a reasonable flow, and I've used one can several times. Downsides: long shaking, the end of the can loses some discharge power, becoming a contortionist on a ladder to fill gaps like worthy. Thanks again for helping me problem-solve. Sorry this is so long -- Once the drywall's back up, that's it. Cathy in SWPA Here is a link that might be useful: old house - daptex foam insulating...See MoreTo insulate or not to insulate a basement bathroom??
Comments (2)I've often written about foam being better than batts. In a concrete basement below grade there will be no air pressure differential to cause air movement from the outside in. Batts are OK here. The bathroom is not going to be sealed from the rest of the house, so whether the batts are faced or not is not a big deal. That is my view. Others may be more precise about reasons for one or the other. Definitely do insulate. It's a more comfortable room afterwards. The temperature gradient is lessened. Batts are OK. Any kind of batt. If you want to do somthing better, you could use spray foam but that is a whole new learning curve. Batts are easy. Methinks a little knowledge can be a dangerous thing....See Moreinsulating under basement floor-styrofoam insulation?
Comments (10)Hi illinigirl, The standard insulation used under basement floors is rigid insulation (XPS -- extruded polystrene). It comes in 2 inch thick often blue pieces of styrofoam. Dow manufacturers it among others. It is not spray foam. We used it in our build -- we are in southern Canada. The labour to lay the rigid insulation sheets was not high. The guys had to dig away a bit more gravel so the basement ceiling level was not compromised. They used the red tuck tape to attach the sheets to each other. This allowed the concrete flat workers to pour the floor with wheel barrow loads. I am not sure yet what a difference it will make as we are partway through our build. We have hydronic in-floor heat that was just turned on for the basement level. The floor is wonderfully warm (mostly due to the in-floor coils). We were required by code to place the rigid insulation because of our planned in-floor heat. Otherwise, I understand, the heat from the coils would not just heat upwards and instead would have been wasted heating underground? We did place the rigid insulation around the perimeter of our our unheated garage. I will go and step on the parts of the garage floor that have the insulation vs the parts that don't to see if I can detect a big difference and report back. Our architect spec'd for this rigid insulation under the basement slab. At the time, we had not planned for the in-floor heat. In other words, he felt it was a good practice even without in floor. The rigid insulation sheets are not cheap. We paid $25.00 a sheet (each one is 2 feet by 8 feet). We are in Canada where everything seems pricier. You can calculate the area needing coverage and see how much your builder is charging for labour vs material to help you decide if the price is reasonable. Don't forget the tack tape is also not cheap. Best of luck. Carol...See MoreMichelle Flaherty
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