First of all, all LVT/LVP can be damaged by sun - it color-shifts. Regardless of brand, btw, unless a mfg has come out with a High UV-resistant line post-2015 when we did our LVP in the MBR. However, I can say that it does take a consider amount of sun to make the difference, and I live in Northern CA where with an East-facing exposure, there is direct sun on my entire 2003 LVT kitchen flooring pretty much 300 days/yr. Knowing this, I had window film put on the main windows, but it only cuts it 50% (the 100%-UV blocking clear film wasn't on the market back then). There has been a very slight color-shift on the LVT over 14 yrs, which I only noticed because one tile had to be replaced in 2016. Now, the pattern on my LVT is a slate-look, so it's less noticeable than a wood plank. The new replacement tile is a touch darker, and a little more reddish-tinted. Realistically? It can only be noticed if you stand right over the tiles and look at them. From the usual side angle - say, you are 3' away and looking at it - you can't tell any difference. So...will a wood-look LVP see a color shift? Possibly/probably. Have your windows anti-UV filmed - it wasn't that expensive, when I had it done in 2003 - and that should pretty much take care of it. We have the Mannington Adura Essex Oak in our MBR which was installed in 2015. It's glue-down, our installer refuses to do any other type of install. We're extremely happy with it so far. Our south-facing windows downstairs are uncoated, but we always keep those blinds closed since the only view is of our neighbor's house! If I had a view off to those side windows I would have just had them filmed. The other large window is north-facing, and indirect sun is not a problem. High UV can damage just about anything. Before I had our kitchen windows filmed, the sun, over a decade's time, managed to fade even the laminate sides of my cabs, and laminate has the highest UV resistance of ALL materials. The UV actually bleached out the beech wood trim on the doors, turning it white in a few areas.

@V M sorry, just seeing your post above. We are just now finally breaking ground on our home so I don't have pics of the flooring to show you from my house. I will come back and post when I do but that will be some months from now. But we are paying, I think, 15K for our Multi-Length Rigid Core SPC floors in color Sandhill. Our house will be 2975 sf and this floor covering will be throughout the home, except in 3 of the full baths and the utility room. I'm not exactly sure how many square feet that leaves but hopefully you can do some rough math. Everything goes through my builder so I don't have an exact price per square foot to provide you. I also am not sure if this includes labor to install.

Installing hardwood in Florida takes extra effort. The first part of that effort is having EXCELLENT humidity control in the home. In hot, humid climates that means the A/C might not be enough. It might require an additional whole-home dehumidifier. It can also rule out an 'open window' type of home. Again, it depends on the location and the humidity levels. Hardwoods must be kept in a 'happy humidity' range between 45% - 60%. At all times. Every minute of every day. For ever and ever. And ever and ever. That means you will spend more on your HVAC system to have that type of 'push button' control (whole home humidifier/dehumidifier). And then the type of build also dictates the best practice for installation of hardwoods. A concrete slab takes extra effort to glue down wood. A high-end adhesives must be used and those add $2-$3/sf...just for the glue. The hardwood and labour are on top of that. In Florida, the most appropriate floors are stone, tile, terrazzo or concrete. All of which are hard and cold. Of course a cool floor in a hot climate is a BENEFIT...not a drawback. Part of the cold flooring is it helps keep the house feeling cool. Vinyl is then the next option. The difference between the 'wood look' or the stone/tile look is simply aesthetics. If you LIKE the look of wood, then go for it. If you LIKE the look of stone/tile, then go for it. With vinyl you will require very good UV block on your windows. Ask your builder what level you have on your windows right now. You will want to find something with UV block ABOVE 50%. I prefer to see 70% - 75%. That keeps the vinyl and the house cool. But it also makes growing indoor plants a difficulty. Plants struggle with UV blocking windows at 70% or higher.

I have used LVP flooring in my basement. I had to replace old carpet. I don't think you want to find a brand as much as you want to make sure that the product is good. I made sure I got one with a good backing and that helped with the feel on your bare feet and noise. I have found that vinyl flooring is very slippery for dogs. Too slippery for a larger dog. If you have a lab he won't walk well on that type of flooring. My daughter had to lay rugs all over an apartment she rented for her dog. The dog was afraid of that flooring there. The vinyl flooring can not be repaired, only replaced. I have both hard wood and now this LVF and any day of the week I would go with hard wood. The hard wood is the best. You can get the wood sanded and resealed if needed. My reason for using the vinyl in the basement area is the waterproof factor. It is great for the basement. I am not sure you will like it after seeing the difference between the hard wood and the vinyl on your main living areas. 'Why don't you extend that hard wood and have the scratch repaired. I bet you will be happier than mixing the vinyl and wood. sorry..