glenn, can you explain in detail a little more? Use to fill 1/8" gaps is acceptable? Are 1/8" gaps even acceptable? I have never seen a floor with big gaps like this. in one 10 x 10 area I have about 15 gaps that nickels, pennies, dimes and quarters fit in. I am sure that they will not fix it without a battle, and I can tell DH thinks we are stuck, but gee whiz, if you bought a new $30,000 car, and the dash board worked, but was crooked, and the windows worked, but didn't close all the way... you'd make them fix it. I really feel that they should have to fix this. I need to find my camera

No! All boards should be milled correctly and by saying that we are not necessarily talking about the "straightness" of the board. Many boards are likely to have a curve in them that gets straightened out during installation with a floor nailer.The milling issues wood be in the planing and routing of the board and would include things like chattering of the surface and tongues and grooves inconsistently cut. There will always be some culled boards but any reputable manufacture will have consistent milling of all size boards

I’m in the same boat you are. What product exactly did you use? the comments have been very helpful and i too am going to try some of these ideas. The flooring guy largely blamed the product and the milling job...Not his installation. He has done other homes for me with excellent results but we used different products. He never said anything about about humidity...I live in Texas....very humid most of the year So not sure if this was the best choice. I did a ton of research before purchasing and most flooring people will make you feel more comfortable with your concerns rather than validate them so you purchase (My experience). Brazilian hardwoood is expensive!! Prefinished Is more. I feel your pain. I used bellawood prefinished narrow planks. It turned out nothing like the sample. If yours are beveled it is going to look like the gaps are bigger than they actually are. See below after the floors were cleaner. hard to appreciate in a photo far away but close up it is much more obvious. In a historic home narrow planks were the only way to go. But a prefinished glue down shows every single imperfection. When it It is time to refinish the floors on a few years many of the issues have will be resolved. If had it to do over again I would have done unfinished walnut, sanded smooth with no bevel so that when it was sealed and finished it would look like a smooth floor when the light hit it. My only advice is to clean it and see if you can live with it. If not try the flexible filler option above (Which I may do with the ones that bug me that aren’t covered by furniture) Since my house is an old mid century. I can get away with some imperfection but if you are going with sleek and modern look it may look more out of place. Good luck!

Joseph C. your reponse did give me a chuckle. However i fully understand this is not a space shuttle - precisely why i wanted to understand what is acceptable and what is not :) Thanks Cinar, Johnson, and SJ Mccarthy for objective answers. SJ again love your detailed answer. This is our first wood floor and my expectations were based on a roughly 300-400 sq ft of anderson engineered wood floor we ripped out in one area to put in this new one. That floor had zero gaps over 6-7 years and i could not put in a paper if i wanted to. I was thinking if one installer did it, other can too. SJ Mccarthy addresses that accurately. It was a not a distressed floor and had a flat finish and that could be the difference. I have seen distressed wood floors in large houses in last 2 weeks and they have zero gaps too. Perhaps they have filler put in which makes sense now based on all your responses. To give you guys better perspective, in 1100Sq ft of new install there were many areas with the gaps. Of course pictures i posted earlier were meant to be examples of smaller gaps only and not all problem areas. I noticed all of these gaps within 48 hours of install. My contractor says these gaps could not have appeared afterwards and would be from right during install as weather has not changed much and glue down wont let wood move so much so quickly. I was trying to get your opinion on whether replacement is worth it and I have my answer now. I think i have my answer now. Thanks all for input. Very helpful. So you folks have some perspective, there are some areas that are visible standing up and in right lighting. These are the ones the contractor said are install problem and should be fixed. and based on all of your inputs, I think i can have a better and practical discussion with him. Just for fun here is a picture I had put together for my contractor to review the work. There are about 8-10 credit cards.