There are a lot of good vendors out there. There are not as many good Kitchen Designers out there. Find your Kitchen Designer first, and he will steer you through the vast amounts of stuff you don’t know that you didn’t even know existed and didn’t know was important. What’s important in cabinets: US constructed. Not US assembled from imported parts. Imports are cheap for a reason. Do not lie to yourself that you are getting something for nothing. You are just paying in a different way that you will regret. The number of door choices that a company offers pretty directly correlates to the quality of the line. And the expense of the line. There are stock lines that offer a single white, and 3 stains on birch, and maybe 2 in oak. And 5 doors. There are lines that offer 25,000 possible combinations. Plus pure custom. Not kidding. Most people end up somewhere in between, in a semi custom line, that gives a good variety of options. The levels of expense will overlap. A simple door in cabinet line C may cost less than a complex door in line A. This is where you need your KD’s help. You need to decide what is good enough for you, or, what level you will accept. And then your dream level. Realistic dream. Not as in you want 750K worth of antique reclaimed ship deck teak to be made into cabinets. Me too. Not realistic. The average mid grade kitchen remodel in the US, using all professional labor, is 63K. That’s to rip it to the studs and do everything. Wiring for better lights. New appliances floors. Paint. Sinks, faucets. As well as the big ticket items of cabinets and counters. Invluding labor in the category totals, the general breakdown of “average” is. Cabinets: 26K Counters: 6K Floors: 7K Electrical: 3K Plumbing: 2K Appliances: 11K. Paint &Millwork: 2K Demolition and misc labor: 5K Discretionary Mad money: 1K Of course, remodels are individual, as are priorities. You may want a 20K appliance budget and move to stock cabinets to make that happen. And not everyone lives in an average 325K US home. Some are above, and some are below. Which is why you take that figure, and your house, and your location, to figure out a budget. Traditional budgeting tries to keep you from over spending or underspending. 10-30% of your home’s value is what to budget for the whole redo. 40% or so to cabinets. That guideline gets muddy in a high cost of living and a low cost of living. There are certain baseline costs to a kitchen remodel that have to be spent, no matter what. The lower your home is in the area’s percentile, the higher the actual percentage will be needed to be to spent. A 100K home has to really struggle to keep to a 20K budget, especially if they have the latest HGTV want list and not laminate counters and stock cabinets. Whereas a 900K home should be able to easily fit a like for like redo into 110K, unless they have a 40K appliance package. Or a 50K range. Theres lots more research to do in the kitchen forum And with your KD.

They went out of business recently and someone else bought them and reorganized, I think. They're also an import line from Asia (China?). Most import lines are VERY limited in sizes. Most don't offer the 39" upper wall cabinets. If you want frameless find a Shiloh (ECLIPSE) dealer in your area. www.eclipsecabinetry.com

First, use a flashlight to see if there is ductwork, you may need to remove the grill. It is pretty common for people to treat any enclosure like ductwork. If there is no ductwork contact the company and discuss solutions with them. If there is ductwork it likely needs to wrapped with insulation and so the cabinets should be removed and the duct wrapped. If you can't remove the cabinets lining the bottom of the cabinet with ductboard or some rigid foam insulation will help although it is an inelegant solution. If there is no ductwork, you can add ductboard under the cabinets by piecing it in through the vent opening and gluing it to the cabinet. It will be a tedious and annoying job but will improve the problem. ETA: to piece in ductboard measure a piece that fits exactly into your inside cabinet bottom. Shorten it for the toe kick (typically 3.75") then cut it in half. Apply adhesive to each piece and feed them in and adhere them. Use a broom handle to ensure they are adhered. If you want to add sides, cut them to fit (Usually 3" if you are using a 1" ductboard) and adhere them to the sides.

Since I was asked to post... None of what the OP wants is really that confusing... A cabinet gable is just a cabinet cover panel. The nomenclature is a remnant of carpenter constructed cabinets rather than production and most cabinet makers should know what cabinet gables are. However, @MGdecor, cabinet gables are not integrated end panels, they are cover panels. --- Yes, it is quite easy to have gables (cover panels), rather than integrated end panels, and still have the door cover the gable. It is done all the time and is not that hard, but it may change the hinge. You can choose to use a hinge for a thicker door, an offset hinge, or simply use a full overlay hinge in a frameless cabinet. A cabinetmaker who calls cover panels, "gables" is probably capable of pulling off the hinge as someone they likely learned their skill from a carpenter. --- You are saying "full overlay" but showing a picture of frameless, so I am not exactly sure what your KD is suggesting with the inset. On the left you have full overlay, on the right you have frameless... Regardless of which one you have, I am struggling to picture inset as a contemporary option. Below is a picture of a frameless inset slab(ish) cabinets and to me it screams classic farmhouse. I don't think a thicker face frame is going to yield a more contemporary cabinet. However, I am not a designer and your designer may have some spectacular vision. --- Since you were asking about doors to go over the cover panels, You can also have doors that are taller and cover the light rail.