HELP Please!! Cost effective way to fix the front left bed?
L L
6 years ago
last modified: 6 years ago
I absolutely despise the large holly trees as well as the little trees lining the front walkway. However, if we pull everything out...what do we replace/ fill it in with? Need to keep costs in mind...We live in northern NJ...
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L L
6 years agoRelated Discussions
2 Grand to fix my pond?! Please help me decide (w pics)
Comments (10)There are a number of ways to make keeping your pond maintenance more efficient without the outrageous price your handyman puts on the job. The first problem of fine leaved Honey Locust leaves could be solved by making a screen sided or mesh sided basket to put into the top section of the pond to collect the leaves. Just leave it in place between cleanings. If you are handy, the screen sided bucket is simple enough but premade mesh fish nets come in some rather large sizes and shaping the handle to serve as a cup type handle is easy enough as is making some sort of shelf to hold the net in place. Just lift the net out by the handle, let the water drain back if it is sufficiently clear and dump the leaves out. I am putting in a link for a website that happens to show several products on the same page that would do a good job of cleaning the mulm under the bottom drain. The fish capture nets are there, too. The Muck Vac is about as simple as it gets. The price is a bit steep but it works. All you need is 50 lbs water pressure in the hose. The leaf vac uses a bag to catch debris and I use one to collect leaves on the bottom. It isn't as good for mulm unless you get the extra bags for that purpose. The price is hard to beat. It adds water to your pond so prepare as for a water change. The Python pond vac is a more elaborate version of the Muck vac designed to collect leaves and mulm. It is more difficult to get into tight places and I have a problem opening and closing the jar that collects the debris because my hands hurt a lot. The pond vacuum on this page is pretty expensive but you can get a garage(utility)vac with a continuous flow(water)discharge for between $75 and $90. It works, too. Just add a hose to run the water to the garden. I got one at Walmart and I've seen them at Lowes, Menards, etc. It took me a while to get the hang of it but Horton came through for me with proper instructions. UV, UV. Hum-mm. I don't see anywhere the flow rate would be low enough to let the UV work. I see you have valves all through the system that makes in-line space at a premium even if it lets you adjust the flow. It seems to me that adding another pipe with a valve to control that flow would make the system complicated to the point of maintenance inefficiency and it would certainly raise the scream level. Maybe I am wrong. Since you are going to move, I would use a small submersible pump and a stand alone UV + filter. It might even be possible to get by with only the sponge included prefilter to protect the pump. The object is to increase dwell time to allow the UV time to work. You can get small fountain pumps for cheap. Try Harbour Freight.I found the UV and filter from Laguna on sale for 45 bucks. several years ago. That screwdriver must be a sign of ingenuity or ineptitude. I don't know which. One of these days you will laugh at it. In a number of stores I see wire shelves that are stackable in the laundry and storage departments. I don't see how deep the hole is but I bet you could find one of those shelves that would fit close enough. You might need to do a bit of bending or cutting. Please do not put stones on the bottom of the pond. It will make cleaning an impossible task and eventually the water will become stinky. Now I will let the smart guys take over. I still like your pond. Sandy Here is a link that might be useful: Simple inexpensive ideas that work well...See MorePlease help me fix this mess of a yard.
Comments (10)It's the case that your front yard will never look nice if you don't get the lawn (grass or groundcover) into good shape. It's the largest "plant(s)" and having it be scarred up destroys the look of anything else that might look nice. I agree with Laceyvail's comments about how the walk approaches the house. It should be farther from the house, approaching it from the front, giving more depth to the bed that is left of the stoop. Many times people don't like to change such things because it costs $$, so it's mentioned in case you are willing to correct a condition in spite of cost, or in case you're faced with designing a walk for the next house, or for others who find this thread and wish to learn about avoiding mistakes. I actually don't mind an "S" curve shape to the walk. If we were starting from scratch, I probably would have made that curve stronger, allowing more depth in the bed near corner of the house, and placed the small tree on that side of the walk. But now we're dealing with what is. Here's a basic configuration in regard to arrangement of elements. Keep in mind that I cannot really see how much shade the tree produces. Where you place groundcover vs. grass will depend on where light exists. If you have no real light to speak of, it may be the case that your entire front yard would be better off being groundcover than grass. If you have light, you can have grass. Also, the tree is large and even though I can't see it, I see low hanging branches. I'm sure you could stand to (need to) remove lower limbs and branches which would have the effect of letting more light below which would help plants at the ground prosper. Color is used to differentiate one object from the next ... not as a suggestion of what color you should have things be. (The small, multi-trunk trees would be made from large shrubs.)...See MoreNeed help fixing parents yard starting with this front bed
Comments (11)@NHBabsMy mom really likes the idea of opening up the porch! And thanks for your insight in general, I appreciate it. I'll see how redbud is doing in fall and play around with how the bed looks without it in photoshop. I think I still prefer the bed with height (we have a mature red maple and a mature laurel oak on either side of the house and having nothing treeform in the middle looks kind of stark to me for some reason). As for the mulch+groundcover, that is true, I'm still just worried since I'm only really here summers but it's worth a shot. As far as theme goes: Since I've always disliked how narrowly people thought of the "tropical" (imagine if we claimed every style using deciduous plants was "temperate"), always thought of as the exotic rather than the default, I kind of wanted to combine this "tropical" with something our very English colonist-inspired society thinks of as more nostalgic. I really love cottage garden styles and so does my mom so ideally we'd have "Florida cottage garden" be the look but that isn't really achievable in this neighborhood (would make yard stick out way too much + is more work to maintain than parents have rn). So basically what we're pursuing is a watered down version of that. Hopefully that makes more sense now. But mostly, I just plant stuff that works + has some utility (either for wildlife or is edible). If there's a plant in the yard without these qualities, it was here before I was. I would say I orient more around color than style (oranges & blues repeat a lot, reds are avoided) and I think I should make that more apparent in my choices of annuals and perennials to better tie things together. Mom's somewhat flexible but we're unwilling to make any big "structural" changes (e.g. removing anything large or dramatically altering the shape of a bed). We're looking for the biggest bang here without too much effort.. if that makes sense. -- I'm now thinking that perhaps the yaupons are enough if we want to keep the porch "open". Then underneath I can have a mix of Evolvulus 'Blew My Mind' (groundcover I have on hand/can propagate), existing gaura, and then add in some of the purple coneflowers I got going + 'black and bloom' salvias to make it go with the other beds more? Now it's just a matter of do I want them towards the back of that bed or towards the front (but not too close to path)? @kiminpl My mom doesn't use the porch much but my dad likes to a lot. Once this is done though I do plan on buying a gardenia or an abelia in a large pot and putting it in the porch area so that might give her more incentive to use it c: so I think orienting it around "looking good from porch" might be a good idea....See MoreExterior is WRONG in every way. What fixes = biggest bang for buck?
Comments (21)Nice home and yard -- far from a disaster. Would NOT paint the brick. You could paint your front door. Is there a deep bold red wine color that you like that you could use for your door and any storm door frame ... with or without adding a brass or stainless steel kick plate at the bottom. https://www.pinterest.com/carenpinette/front-door-color/ If you painted all the painted surfaces of your home -- gable end, porch, fascia -- a medium gray color chosen from within the brick, the contrast would not be as stark and, in my non-pro opinion, would be an improvement. While I'd not have chosen that roofing with those brick, I'd still NOT change the roof only for looks -- not worth the considerable expense to do so -- but do consider the colors in the brick when actually is time to change the roofing. In the meantime, it is possible to darken the shingles. https://www.hunker.com/13401213/how-to-change-a-shingle-color If you have all bronze window frames in good shape, keep them; however, if you have a mismatch, consider painting them all black. Since the walk path from driveway to front door is soggy, you clearly need to work on drainage. With the absence of a distinctive slope to the yard adjacent to the front of the house, that requires creating a path for the water to run off. Although a French Drain could work, it could also require more maintenance. Instead ... A wide shallow scoop that can be mowed without other maintenance may well be your best option. In your case, the scoop should be an "L" shape parallel to the front exterior wall of the house and turning to be parallel to the sidewalk leading directly away from the house. The scoop may be wider and more shallow or deeper and less shallow depending upon what works in your yard. https://www.pinterest.com/pin/435582595190669883/ You'll also need to make sure the water from your gutter downspouts is being moved farther away from the house before it is released into the yard. https://www.twofeetfirst.net/how-to-bury-a-gutter-downspout/ You can have the water released above ground or to the first solid pipe, you can attach a different pipe with holes in it into a buried ditch filled with gravel to disburse the water underground in the same way a drain field of a septic tank would. https://www.thenaturalhome.com/septic/ Another alternative that might work IF you have a drop off near the road: With a slope in your front yard, you might be able to create a very short knee wall about a dozen feet or from the front exterior wall of the house, above which would be your walk path -- paving stones with grass growing between them. https://www.google.com/search?source=univ&tbm=isch&q=grass+and+paving+stone+walk+path&client=firefox-b-1-d&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwiTxtGI_7npAhVamHIEHYXGA64QsAR6BAgKEAE&biw=1324&bih=648#imgrc=nJStdELGb78dmM A very short one step high retaining wall would still enable the yard to drain down to the lower level. https://www.homedepot.com/c/ah/how-to-build-retaining-wall/9ba683603be9fa5395fab90d68eac94 To create a knee wall for yard drainage, you'd need to dig out the front yard between that knee wall and the road. Have the ground above the knee wall have a very slight slope from house to knee wall so the water will drain off that part of the path/yard to below the knee wall. Put grass above the knee wall with paving stones buried so their tops are ground level and move any shrubs between house and knee wall to below the knee wall. If you need a place to put the dirt you remove to create the lower level, building codes permitting, you could add a raised planting bed either in your yard -- less stooping for your gardening -- and/or create a raised planting bed along side the property line to create a green privacy wall/fence. If Aucuba bushes will grow in your planting zone, they'll keep their leaves and look good year round. If liriope will grow where you live, it makes a good plant outlining a sidewalk and/or driveway and/or parking area. Do know what utilities may be buried in your yard before digging. Consider adding a tree on the left sunny side of the house about halfway from the back of the property to the front -- one that will provide shade in the summer for a side yard patio but let the warmth of the sun come through during winter. Also, consider move the bird feeders a bit farther from the house and add a plain concrete bird bath, also visible from your front window and not far from the feeders. By doing this, you will have even more birds coming into your yard, perhaps even nesting in the trees. If you will add landscaping that includes plants with blooms that attract humming birds, you'll have those birds come by to be enjoyed as well....See More
laceyvail 6A, WV
6 years agoL L
6 years ago@doug we love your mock up. Here are pics with no snow. Would you pull that front new left bed all the way to the lawn.
PRODig Doug's Designs
6 years agoL L
6 years agoL L
6 years ago
gtcircus
6 years agoFirst to really do a good mock up that includes the front of the house, the existing landscape has to go. I would also loose the shutters because they look silly but its a bit hard to see what the windows look like with all the hedges. The sidewalk to the driveway is way too close to the house and is limiting plantings on the house side of the sidewalk. If you want a sidewalk to the driveway, the existing one will need to be removed and the new one brought out significantly from the house.
L L thanked gtcircusL L
6 years agolast modified: 6 years ago
emmarene9
6 years agoYour house is so nice. It has many nice features. Most of those nice features are either hidden or diminished due to poor landscaping. Only the nice roof can be seen at it's best.
I think you could do without the forward bed entirely. Lawn would be better there.
Shrubs hiding the windows should be removed or pruned. The rest need to be trimmed to below window height.
Doug and Maggie have presented nice images for you. I borrowed some of their plants and cut and paste a few more to show what the house would look like if not dominated by chaotic plants.
I think the entrance is more inviting when plants are not looming over it.
It occurs to me that it may never have been planned to cover the windows with tall shrubs. Some people get delayed on trimming and before they know it their house looks like yours. If you do not want to be a slave to shearing it would be good to buy plants that will naturally stay smaller. The brick is pretty so it should show more.
The perennials forum is a good place to get ideas for a mixed shrub and perennial/annual bed planning. Ten feet deep is ample space. They are also generous with sharing their own gardens.
L L thanked emmarene9L L
6 years ago@bellburmaggie...now I am freaked out, we have a groundhog living under our deck. We found it dead and we're happy but then another one appeared. We def need to deal with that this year. I hope he hasn't ruined our foundation. Ok here are pics viewed front the front porch...
gtcircus
6 years agoHere is what I did. The rock goes out to the drip line of the eaves. This photo is from Halloween, hopefully you can see the large rock back by the eaves. One really doesn’t notice it but it works to keep the ground hogs from burrowing under your foundation. I wouldn’t freak out - but my neighbor now has rock. They had to put a truck load of slurry to fill the GH burrrow (cement truck) as the tunnels are long. Apparently the main burrows was up next to the basement wall which cracked from all the earth movement and then leaked when it rained. When I moved into the house I had the large landscape rock around the house which I thought was ugly - now I know why it was put down - per my landscape company. The other reasons for the rock, you don’t want mulch up against the house - termites.
gtcircus
6 years agoFrom what I can see this is where the rock would go. Plants should be a bit further way from rock.
gtcircus
6 years agoAnd IMO the red “x”s are what needs to come out ASAP. The yellow arrow is pointing at your neighbors beds which are look to be appropriately deep and not smooshed up against the house.
- PRO
L L
6 years ago@digdoug wow!! We are floored over here!! Love your mock ups. Thank you!! What kind of tree is this?
@bellburmaggie...stone along the house is interesting. Haven't seen it done around here before. I agree the trees you x marked def have to go!!
- PRO
Dig Doug's Designs
6 years agolast modified: 6 years ago emmarene9
6 years agosuezbell
6 years ago
gardengal48 (PNW Z8/9)
6 years agoL L
6 years agoL L
6 years agogardengal48 (PNW Z8/9)
6 years agoL L
6 years agoThank you, Doug! I do love Hostas but we have lots of deer (ugh dislike deer)...I will look at the other plants you suggested. We def want to take the large tree down by the end of the driveway but that is not a project for this year...it’ll happen when we redo the driveway. Can you plz tell me what these plants are bc they look different than the ones in the first pic you did. Also the pink bush in the outer bed..is that still a JM?
And to gardengirl...yes they are hollies but I am talking about the other side of the house. And yes we do trim the shrubs back. I’m just not a gardener and will not be out there pruning flowers back all the time!
gardengal48 (PNW Z8/9)
6 years agoL L
6 years agoGardengal - yes - I know that's the aurora - but behind it in the row of shrubs near the house...they look like different color bushes. Yes - we don't plan to take down the pine...we like it...here is an older pic. We took that high umbrella tree out already.
And the pink tree in the bed with the aurora...is that the JM?
gardengal48 (PNW Z8/9)
6 years ago- PRO
Dig Doug's Designs
6 years ago kitasei
6 years agoemmarene9
6 years agoL L
6 years agoL L
5 years agoWe planted! Laurels under the windows, fire andromeda in between, barberry and a few other things. The andromeda needs to be moved out bc my husband has to move the laurels away from the house so the andromeda aren’t staggered enough. How far from the house should plants be planted?
Jessica Whittingham
5 years ago- PRO
Dig Doug's Designs
5 years ago gardengal48 (PNW Z8/9)
5 years agoL L
5 years agoDoug we took your plans and went to the local nursery and gave them our dimensions and everything. They recommended certain plants Etc. Do you like what we planted? It all looks so bare now but not sure how big everything will get. I thought the laurels were a little close so my hubby pulled them out a bit. Here is a shot
suezbell
5 years ago- PRO
Dig Doug's Designs
5 years ago L L
5 years agoL L
5 years agosuezbell
5 years ago
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