Cathy, I may be wrong but IMHO the only way to save it it's to cut all rotten parts, disinfect it, treat with anti fungal and keep it dry until it calluses over, then pot it in to a dry mix and wait with only misting. I guess, you pruned roots and repotted right after, so there were not healed exposed cuts covered with soil and all bacteria and fungal spores could get in. There are experienced DR growers here who will most likely give you advice soon. Good luck, Aggie

Well your pictures didnt work but maybe I can help. I believe you let the pods stay on the plant until they start to crack open. I've even heard of people rubber banding baggies over the pods to collect the seed. After collecting pull the feathery hairs off and their ready to plant. To germinate the temp is the key, 80-90 degrees F is ideal. Lay the seed horizonally in seed starting soil then sprinkle no more than 1/4in of soil over the top. Mist the soil really well, I place plastic wrap over the top of the pot to help keep it moist, the soil dries quick at 90 deg F. They sould germinate in about a week. After they pop you may have to help them shed the shell from the seed. Good luck. Jeremiah Here is a link that might be useful: this may help also

Hi Raee, "I couldn't find anyone to explain to me re baffle, reflector, open -- which one is right for my space?" Baffle -- the inside part of a can. Usually white and either flat or banded for appearance. The baffle is the part that turns the inside of a can from looking like the inside of a can, into having a nice white interior. Baffles are cheap, they're like $8. If you use a baffle, you would then use a regular flood bulb. Retrofit -- In lieu of using a baffle and bulb, you can buy an all-in-one kit these days. They come w the LED light and the trim in one piece. You don't need the baffle separate from the bulb with LED, cuz theoretically, the lights will not burn out in your lifetime. Look for Retrofit kits. They have them at HD, Menards, Lowes. Reflector -- some bulbs (PAR style) light up a filament or diode, then reflect the light downwards in a particular pattern. They can have a narrow (aka flashlight) or wide (aka flood light) reflection pattern. All bulbs with a reflector and PAR style will have a more focused light than a light which has a diffuser insead, which is a BR style. For general lighting, I much prefer BR. "Which gives gentle, broad lighting?" Look for BR style kits. Avoid PAR if you want gentle, broad. "Was guessing that 5-in would be about right?" Sure. This is all personal preference. Personally, I went with 5" in my remodel. But I was working with a little lower than normal ceilings, so I didn't want really big (6") cans. 5" or 6" would be fine. Smaller would look a little more modern, larger a little more traditional. "Best price" I don't think you can go wrong here. Your electrician will probly get an ok price, tho you can probly beat it a bit if you want to put the leg work into it and find a sale. I usually have my electrician and plumber friends quote me "wholesale" prices when I need a fixture and they call their supplier, and oddly Menards or Home Depot usually beats them. I know right now the Menards 5" retrofit kit is on sale for $10 off. I'm about to take my receipts in to get $10 back on each one I've bought. Major score! I bought and analyzed the various kits available at stores by me, see the thread below... Hope that helps! -mike Here is a link that might be useful: My analysis of LED retrofit kits

Fillers from cabinet companies come in 3" and 6" widths and are ripped in the field to the desired size. Partial overlay cabinets usually do not need fillers for clearances because the exposed face frame gives them more clearance against doorways, walls, and adjacent cabinets. Full overlay and frameless cabinets will always need fillers against walls to account for out of squareness and to give clearance to the knobs so they don't bang against the walls. They will also need fillers against tall cabinets for the same reason, and for appliances that have clearance issues. In a small kitchen, some people opt to go without some of these fillers becaue each fraction of an inch is valuable, and then they end up having to use "cabinet stops" on their doors to keep them from banging walls or ajdacent tall cabinets. Using fillers works much better, really. It is up to the KD to understand the cabinet line's clearance needs and to specify the proper fillers in the design. Companies that order cabinets generally do not provide any design services or check over your order to see if you've specified every cabinet with the correct attributes for how it is being used in the design (matching interior, finished sides, etc.) That is the role of a KD, and you are acting as the KD in this instance. In your design above, you will need a minimum of a 1 1/2" filler for both the top and bottom cabinets against both walls of the upper runs. (I would also rip a filler overlay to the same dimensions so that it ddoesn't appear to have a "recess" next to your cabinet door.) If your moldings on your doorway are especially prominent, you may need to increase that size. Next to your fridge and a wall, depending on the fridge specs, I'd use either 2 1 1/2" fillers or two 3" ones together with the proper supportive side panels for the fridge cabinet above. You will need a minimum of a 1 1/2" filler against the side wall for your pantry, and if it has pull outs, you'll need a 3" one. This directly affects the size of the pantry that you can use if you are planning on that run being only 24" deep. What type of panel you choose to finish off the side of the pantry cabinet will also affect the overall depth of the run as well, so be sure you get those details right before you order. When beginning a cabinet design, place the fillers first, and since cabinets come in 3" increments, using a 1 1/2" filler against a right and left wall will only take up 3" of cabinet space. Lay out your cabinets, and if you have space left over, then you can increase/decrease the size of your fillers. NEVER go below 1" for wall clearances or 3" if wall clearances are needed for roll out trays.