PLEASE help with preparing wood floor for LVT
b h
6 years ago
Featured Answer
Sort by:Oldest
Comments (18)
b h
6 years agoRelated Discussions
Preparing to Plant Grass From Seed Please Help
Comments (1)This might help you Zones of Soil...See More"preparation of slab for engineered wood floating floor"
Comments (9)Just wanted to report back about cleaning the slab. I tried various methods with little success. Then I rented the diama-brush coating removal tool from home depot. It runs on a standard buffer. It wasn't easy, but all-in-all it worked great. I had a vac connected, but I used a fair amount of water, sprinkling from a drinking water bottle. Every now and then, I would scrape up the "slurry" of glue and mastic and put into a garbage can, put down some fresh water and go over it again. Came out very nice. Worth the 100+ dollars to rent that thing. With the water, there was no issue with dust - that was nice! If you do it, watch the video on youTube first. The main tip that helped me is that you always want to work into the coating from an uncoated area as much as possible....See MoreI'm back. This time better prepared. Please help me choose HVAC.
Comments (9)Welcome back April. I am glad to see you have done some more homework. I own Carrier Infinity equipment, so I know it will keep you comfortable in the cold Michigan winters. I have heard mixed opinions about Lennox, but I have no direct experience. I am going assume Contractor #3 is a competent installer and he has sized your equipment properly. I am glad to see he is offering the Carrier rebates. Here are my comments for the Contractor #3 options: Furnaces: Option 1: I would not recommend an 80% AFUE furnace for your winters. Option 2: This is the two-stage Infinity furnace. It is a good furace and will work with the Infinity controller. Option 3: For $300 more you get a three-stage furnace. This would be my recommendation with the Infinity controller. Air Conditioning: Option 1: This is a single stage compressor. I think 4 tons is oversized for your climate. Option 2: This is the two-stage compressor. This is the AC to get if you have humid summers. This AC will work with the Infinity controller. I believe this AC with the 58MVC furnace will qualify for the $1000 Carrier rebate. Option 3: This AC in my opinion is over kill for your climate. It is not worth the money. Ask contractor #3 how much a 10 Carrier labor warranty would cost. You should consider getting this warranty for peace of mind for the next 10 years. I would also want to upgrade to a 4 inch media filter. This should not be a costly upgrade assuming you have to room to fit it. You should also qualify for the $500 tax credit if you haven't already used it....See MorePLEASE HELP, NEED HELP NOW! About putting in engineered wood flooring.
Comments (18)I prefer site finished. It is easier to refinish when it needs it. Your friend has probably done "buff and coat" procedures. This is normally done ONCE and then a FULL sand and refinish. If your friend has been doing the buff and coat MORE THAN once, then she's doing it "wrong" (could be "right" for her, but it isn't the regular way for hardwood). Traditionally the FULL sand and refinish occurs around the 20 year mark. So the floors, after 20 years SHOULD look like this. That's kinda what tells you "it's time". A buff and coat only adds a coat of finish (to freshen up the floor). It doesn't "correct" anything. The FULL sand and refinish will do 10 TIMES more for the look of the floor than a buff and coat. The sand/refinish will strip the old finish off and then carve off 1-2mm of WOOD. That means 99.9% of all dings and gouges will be taken care of. The "dirt and food in between" (the planks) is MUCH MORE likely to occur with factory finished floors. These floors have bevelled edges (a little shoulder on every plank that creates little valleys between each plank). But it can occur with floors SHRINKING from LOW humidity. The floor can create little gaps between planks. That's normal if the humidity is too low or is uncontrolled. The THINNER the plank, the LESS the wood will/can shrink. That's why narrow/strip hardwood is the BEST option for uncontrolled humidity. Those big, beautiful, expensive, wide plank products that are SUPER trendy = not an option for uncontrolled humidity. A factory finished hardwood (with Aluminum Oxide = AO) is going to be SUPER expensive to refinish and here's why. The AO finish is SOOOO tough (how tough is it SJ?). It is SOOOO tough it takes 2-3 TIMES the amount of effort/material to strip it from the wood floor. Once the AO is gone, the wood turns into a normal hardwood floor. And just for fun, the 'refresh' buff and coat is almost IMPOSSIBLE to do. Even the toughest finish looks tired around the 15 year mark. Sadly, AO finishes often prevent a recoat (the finish is chemically very slick...almost nothing sticks to it = HELL to add '1 coat'). The average cost of a full sand/refinish = $5/sf. The average cost of a sand/refinish of AO = $7-$9/sf. Yes. It is THAT TOUGH to remove. A traditional buff and coat = $2.50 - $3/sf. So if you do the math, the site finished hardwood may cost a bit more on day 1....but by year 30 it will be MUCH cheaper/easier to deal with/live with. It allows you to freshen up the finish around year 15 (if you wish). It allows for a routine sand/refinish without adding a HIGHER COST of labour. So "cost effective" today can be much more costly by the time you plan on refinishing. In fact, so many people look at the extra costs and figure a new floor is cheaper....and they are right. Sigh...so there goes the idea of using up all the life on the hardwood (3/4" solid hardwood). That goes out the window when the owner realizes the costs are much higher and they choose to rip it out and throw it out; thus negating the benefit of a solid hardwood!...See Moreb h
6 years agob h
6 years agoUser
6 years agolast modified: 6 years agob h
6 years agob h
6 years agoUser
6 years agolast modified: 6 years agoCinar Interiors, Inc.
6 years agolast modified: 6 years agob h
6 years agoChessie
6 years agoSJ McCarthy
6 years ago
Related Stories
REMODELING GUIDESYour Floor: An Introduction to Solid-Plank Wood Floors
Get the Pros and Cons of Oak, Ash, Pine, Maple and Solid Bamboo
Full StoryREMODELING GUIDESDesigner Confessions: Torn Between Wood Floors
19 Photos to Help You Choose a Wood Floor Finish
Full StoryREMODELING GUIDESWhen to Use Engineered Wood Floors
See why an engineered wood floor could be your best choice (and no one will know but you)
Full StoryFLOORSWhat's the Right Wood Floor Installation for You?
Straight, diagonal, chevron, parquet and more. See which floor design is best for your space
Full StoryDECORATING GUIDESIsn’t It Good, Nordic Wood: The Appeal of Pale Floors
From silvery ash to honey blonde or chalk white, light-toned floors hold the key to the pared-back simplicity of Scandinavian style
Full StoryFLOORSHow to Care for Engineered Wood Flooring
Keep your wood floor looking its best with these tips and tricks from the experts
Full StoryREMODELING GUIDESWhat to Know About Engineered Wood Floors
Engineered wood flooring offers classic looks and durability. It can work with a range of subfloors, including concrete
Full StoryREMODELING GUIDESLaminate Floors: Get the Look of Wood (and More) for Less
See what goes into laminate flooring and why you just might want to choose it
Full StoryDECORATING GUIDESWhat Goes With Dark Wood Floors?
Avoid a too-heavy look or losing your furniture in a sea of darkness with these ideas for decor pairings
Full StoryREMODELING GUIDESYour Floors: Zebra, Tiger, and Teak Wood, Oh, My!
Get the Pros and Cons of Exotic Woods: Hickory, Cherry, Rosewood and More
Full Story
Cinar Interiors, Inc.