Terrene; A. syriaca actually has less cardenolides than many other milkweeds (check out the link below). However, monarchs are able to concentrate cardenolides as long as they are present. The table in the link does not include A. curassavica, however, A. curassavica has a high level of cadenolides in comparison to A. syriaca. A. syriaca has way more latex sap than others. This actually poses a problem for first instar caterpillars as many are lost to the sap. Thanks Ericwi. I was just wondering because I haven't found anything yet. Yes, the mode of infection is typically vertical, through eating the spores. As I stated above, through eating the egg shell. The spores are then lysed through the alkaline environment of the caterpillars gut, where they then migrate through the gut wall to reproduce asexually. They then form spores after sexual reproduction,during the development of the pupa. -Elisabeth Here is a link that might be useful: concentration of cardenolides

If the vet confirmed the beginning of the end, what exactly is your cat dying of? There are lots of diseases that are treatable if properly diagnosed. Old age is not a disease, so something else must be going on. A single dilated pupil (anisocoria) can be lots of things, but without proper diagnostics I am sure it cannot be treated appropriately. She could just have Horner's syndrome or an ear infection. Please let us know why your vet feels it is "the beginning of the end." Lots of posters here have a lot of experience with end of life issues and can help you with that. Having a specific diagnosis sure goes a long way in helping your cat be comfortable. I know it is never easy with an older pet, but there are things that can be done to help if we know what we are dealing with. 17 is not that old for a cat.

jeanie_beth thank you for the great info on ivermectin. One thing though just for anyone referring to the info and the dosage. If a dose for an adult cat is 200micrograms......then, to draw that amount up, from a Ivermectin injectible solution bottle, 1% solution, for cattle/swine..........you have to have a 1cc syringe. they are the syringes that are very thin, about as half as thin as a pencil would be. On a one cc syringe......which is also a one ml syringe....they usually have both ml and cc written on the syringe........ On the syringe you will see ten larger increments with numbers written next to them: .1, .2, .3.....all the way to .10. between each of the large increments, you see the ten tiny increments between each. Since a 1% ivermectin injectible bottle has 10mg per milliliter(mL).....and the adult cat dose is only 200micro-grams.........(there are 1000 micrograms in one mg).........you will only be drawing up to the second tiny increment mark on the syringe......as seen in photo below: So, assuming you have Ivermectin Injection 1% for cattle and swine, in order for you to draw up the correct dose for an adult cat, which according to Jeanie's vet is 200 microgram,..... you will draw up .02mL on this ONE mL syringe shown in the photo. so, literally it will contain a couple of drops. Ivermectin can be very toxic and can kill a cat or dog if overdosed. and since the dose for cats and dogs is so tiny, you have to be very careful and not confuse measurement,....otherwise you can easily give them 100X the safe dose!!!!.....ALWAYS make sure you are starting with the 1% ivermectin injectible.......that will say for cattle and swine...................(NOT the one that says sheep drench, or horse paste, etc)...................... first take alcohol swab/pad and wipe off the top stopper first. Then ALWAYS draw it up with sterile new 19 gauge needle (its very thick liquid, and is basically impossible to draw it up with a 23 or 25 gauge needle) , using ONLY a 1 mL syringe (which is a one ml syringe)sterile syringe as well. Then draw up to exactly the second tiny line marked on the syringe(from the point closest to the needle hub). THAT tiny amount is 200 micrograms. .........if you want to draw up only 100 micrograms, you would only go to the first tiny increment, and if you want to draw up 300 micrograms, then you would go to the third tiny increment (from the needle hub)., etc.

When a kitten or cat that has never made a "mistake" of that sort suddenly pees on a bed, you need to think, "There must be something wrong." You are right to first consider what recent changes in its life could be upsetting it. So, in addition to litter and food, which you note haven't changed, please check the following list. (1) If none of the following questions make you think Yes and you can't think of any other relevant changes, then you should get the kitten to a vet soon because it could have a health condition that is causing the problem. For instance, a cat with a urinary infection will experience a stinging sensation when it pees, and it could blame the place it pees in for the pain, which could lead it to try out other locations. (2) Has some new, possibly unpleasant to a cat, fragrance appeared in its surroundings? There are odors that people love, but that could upset a cat. (Citrus scent is one, and there are others.) (3) Has a new person or pet joined the family? Is there anyone in the family that might be annoying the cat? (For instance, a young child might just be "playing" with it, but to the cat, those attentions could be upsetting.) Has a family member that the cat is fond of moved away (child gone to college, for instance)? The presence of a "new" cat may also upset the current resident cat, leading to bad behavior for a while. I have even known nervous humans to cause a kitten to pee in the wrong places: A 3-month old kitten went to a new home where it was the only pet; but the owners--a young couple--were away for most of the day, and when the kitten peed in a corner somewhere (in its original home, it had never once made a mistake), they made a great fuss. Pretty soon it was peeing here and there in the apartment, but not in its litter box. Finally, they called the breeder of the kitten, who told them to get it checked by the vet. The vet scolded them for scolding the kitten and said they should act very calm and if they caught it in the act, simply put it in the litter box and tell it pleasantly that that was the right place. Overnight, the kitten stopped peeing inappropriately and never did it again. (4) Do you wash or shampoo the cat? (Unlike dogs, cats wash themselves so well that most can go all their lives without a human doing it for them, and they still smell good! [A male, un-neutered cat may be an exception to this, as they sometimes like to use their urine to declare their territories to other males, and it has a strong odor.]) A cat should only be washed when it has gotten into a harmful substance, or too much of even something not harmful, which the cat can't wash off with its own tongue. Being bathed is very upsetting to most cats. I hope one of these suggestions will turn out to be helpful to you. As I wrote about the female cat that started peeing on a silk comforter after I got married, this problem can generally can be fixed, although perhaps not "overnight." Don't feel too upset and don't give up. A cat, even when a tiny kitten, is programmed to do its business in the same place all the time and that is what it would prefer. Most never make a mistake their whole lives unless senility or illness confuses them, so it is very likely that your kitten will not make a regular habit of peeing on the bed. However, do make sure that you thoroughly wash the bedding and/or use some enzymatic pet scent remover to get rid of any lingering scent that would tell the kitten, "Yes, this smells of your urine, so it's the right place to go."