This is a pic of our shower using clips and silicone. The shower door is open. The silicone is along the wall and the bottom, where the glass meets the Torreon travertine. It is nearly invisible. The clips are drilled directly into the stone tile. There is framing behind it. (edit to say there are wood studs behind the tile) We initially did not have the rubber seal on the glass where it meets the door because the water did not splash out during the "test". The shower head is in the center of the shower but from this photo angle, it looks like it is close to the door. But once a body was in the shower, the water was deflected and came through the crack. Not a ton, but enough to need to wipe up instead of letting sit on the travertine floor. Hope that gives you a visual how clips will hold your glass.

Do you really want the grout to be a feature? I'd go with the closest match to the tile, which is either the top or the bottom. If this is supposed to look like wood (can't tell from this small piece), then it's especially important that it not really appear to have grout, or the illusion is ruined.

Hi, nilofera, I wish I could help you out more with advice on Kolbe and Marvin but our company doesn't work with Kolbe products and we don't often use Marvin except for some specialty window styles. We are a big fan of Andersen though. We highly recommend them because of the quality of the product and service. Here are a couple of houses we did this year with Black Andersen E-Series windows. They're both more traditional in style and they have Low-E 366 glass. The first one has grids and the second does not have grids. The second also has views from the interior of the house so you can see what it's like to look through the glass, sometimes the darker exterior makes people hesitant but it's hardly noticeable from the interior. We recommend Low-E 366 for our clients because it has a lower solar heat gain coefficient which benefits our Texas homeowners. A lower SHGC rating means the window glass does a better job of shading and preventing heat gain from the sun which is especially important for us in the summer months. I would recommend choosing the glass that's going to offer the best energy ratings. Compare the NFRC ratings of your windows and if the difference isn't significant then I'd go with the more affordable option as long as it meets energy requirements. What is your contractor recommending? - Ariana

@3onthetree I won't have time for adding more dimensions to drawings until a few days from now, but I can quickly answer your questions/address assumptions: - "Stand at the Mudroom and look towards Dining." There is no mudroom. I'm assuming you are referring to my current kitchen, which will be a sitting room/office. The impetus for this remodel is that the house has terrible flow! The door closest to the street and near the carport is the existing kitchen door. This means everyone (me, visitors, etc.) enter into the kitchen. The original house designer put the "front" door in the back, which doesn't work for many reasons. So, the current kitchen will get a spiffed up exterior entry landing, and be converted into an entry area and sitting room/office. The dining room turns into the kitchen. The dining room table moves into the living room and the living room furniture moves a bit. Flow issues mainly solved. - "You see the linen bumpout, whatever #3 is, an opening (barn door?), 2 doors for laundry (wide cabinet doors), a counter inset (coffee), then 2 more doors (slim cabinet doors). Add to that the island, and are those 3 skylights above?" The "linen bumpout" would be flush with my desk and the coat closet, so it should read as a smooth wall. The architect thinks there is a post somewhere near #3--I don't think there is, but there is a bump out, although it sounds hollow. There are 4 planned skylights--two in the entry/office/sitting room and two in the kitchen. They correspond with the new "walkway" through the house. The architect has not accommodated my requests to make a series of doors all the same width along the laundry/pantry/coffee alcove wall. But I measured it out and it can be done. The result would look something like this image of cabinets below: The door is a pocket door, not a barn door. Need to be able to keep the cats out of the "office" when I work. "Continue to the Dining/Living, and it's very simple and elemental there. - The forced items from the wish list seem over-detailed to make them work. Is having an 18" sink, that will splash up onto the sides of the millwork cabinets and has no counter space to set anything, worth the detailing?" No. Agree that it's not worth it. "Is using the stud spaces in the Pantry (a great idea for tiny houses) worth the cost and detailing of a finished backside of the wall material and custom cut shelving?" Yes, because the closet is only about 30" wide, so to get side shelves, you need to go into the studs. My husband likely will make those shelves. "Is the W/D, which has its own smells, humidity, and lintiness, worth it to be near baking supplies or compete with coffee smells?" There is no good place for the laundry. Currently, the laundry is in the kitchen. I played with moving the machines everywhere you can image--all locations are compromises. Laundry generally occurs on Wednesdays and Saturdays, so it's not an all the time thing. I do between 2 and 4 loads per week (with WFH, more like 4, but when I go back to the office, it will be 2 with my work clothes going to the dry cleaner). "The linen needing a custom millwork door size?" All the cabinets will be custom. I want to put my money into the carpentry because I think the return will be great. "So how to fix these examples? Can laundry be moved to the future bath remodel?" The bathrooms are tight. Laundry cannot go in the bathrooms. "Can paint brushes be washed outside or later in another laundry area?" I could add a sink outside. Agree with this suggestion. "Can the entire wall be a simple, uniform cabinet face with storage (both appliance and pantry) and hidden coffee shelf?" Yes! That is what is planned! "Then can this tradeoff of these fixes pay dividends by not needing shelving blocking the windows? It doesn't always work, but KISS might provide relief in other ways." I'm not a huge fan of the shelf in front of the window and don't plan to store anything I need to move on a regular basis on it (I live in earthquake country). I did think it would be nice for my small potted succulents; I can use museum wax to make sure they don't fall off and pots add color to what is otherwise planned to be a wood and white kitchen. "Other thoughts: - Tough call on moving the window. I am trying to zoom the photo if the operable side can be eliminated up to the center picture window (if mulled together) instead of moving the whole unit." I'm getting new windows :). So mulling can be as needed to match cabinetry lines, sink placement, etc. "But it seems the payoff of moving the exact same window over 15" isn't worth it." Agree. "- Wing wall: surprised there is not a roof post there in addition to the 6 switches." There is a post, but at the far end of the wing wall. "- Washer depth 32" is front to back - common 26" deep + 4" duct" The dryer is ductless and the washing pipes can go in the stud wall. I need 29.5" of depth at a minimum. "- Option 2 has a range hood on the Office pocket door (mounting + vibration)" True. Hadn't thought about this. - There are ways to do things that might ease a bit of the costs, for instance moving/reducing the window: with the siding, you can bring in another color/material/pattern and possibly continue the design language similar to this concept: