Thanks, Chris. Looked carefully at UC IPM's site about katydids. My holes in my leaves are teeny tiny, like pin dots. Plus, I've got a little PLC, too. I chatted with the nursery I bought them from yesterday. Interestingly, they have an article on their new web site about PLC. They told me that despite spraying their dormant trees FOUR times, due to all the crazy rain we got, they are still having issues with fungal infections - PLM and Shot Hole. It's not bad - just a few leaves on each tree. So, I made sure I had some Monterrey LiquiCop on hand for this fall and winter for everything. And no, I haven't put tangelfoot on my trees, yet. I have got to get to that just to control the aphids and ants. If I can get the ants off, I can then hose off the aphids. I think I can get to that starting today. Trying to build a garden shed and potting bench, too, and my wonderful hubby was not happy with my foundation, so I've got to rake away ALL the gravel, then re-set the stepping stones. Ugh. But, I will keep my eyes peeled for katydids. Patty S.

Cutting it below any existing branches will most probably kill the tree. The pathogen is topical rather than systemic or internal, meaning that it spreads by spores that can overwinter on twigs and stems. That's why it it so important to treat at the appropriate time of year, as is pruning out affected stems and twigs at that time, and to practice good sanitation. Also make sure any sprinklers are not hitting the foliage. The disease is encouraged by damp spring weather and overhead irrigation. management of peach shothole

I'll preface this by saying I'm far from an expert, but knowing you live in Utah has me thinking this may be a soil pH issue. Most of the soils in the west have a high pH (at least greater than 7, some at 8 or even 8.5) Apricots are somewhat tolerant to a high pH but they don't especially care for it. Once the pH gets past a certain point, they can get iron chlorosis because they can no longer get iron from the soil. As for why now...I dunno. Was there something different about the weather this year? Overwatering (or too much rain) is a contributing factor. Or if it was very dry and you had to water the tree, the pH levels in the water can be very high as well and may add to the problem. If that's the case there's a bunch of ways to treat the problem. Your local extension office is probably where to go to get your soil test done, and you could perhaps ask what people in your area have had success with to lower pH. In my case, I could add sulfur and other amendments as much as I wanted, but my irrigation water had so many bicarbonates in it, the only thing that worked was adding sulfuric acid to the water and making it pH 5.0 before irrigating. Good luck! Let us know what you find out! Even if I'm wrong, I'd love to learn what this is and how you resolved it.

Fireblight can affect anything in the rose family.....and that incudes apricots, although it is less common with them than other species. But nothing about the appearance of the tree nor the rapidity in which it wilted calls out of fireblight. This tends to appear in late spring, not late summer, when temperatures and weather conditions are ideal for its incubation. But there are a couple of other possibilities, including phytophthora and eutypa dieback, that could cause rapid wilting and dying of the foliage. Is there any agricultural resource station or other agency that focuses on plant pathology that you could take samples to for an accurate diagnosis?