Wyndyacre, I never thought of trying anti-dessicant spray. I usually wrap in burlap or else cover with an old box. That's good to know that it works well. Does anyone else use this product? I also heard that mulching the plants year round (or at least for the winter) helps prevent winter dessication. One theory is that by mulching the frost doesn't penetrate the ground so deeply, allowing the roots to thaw out quicker in spring and start taking up moisture. As long as the plant is taking up moisture, it can replenish moisture lost through the needles or branches by the sun and wind. Here it was a fairly typical winter with the usual cold spells. I have yet to do a 'tally' of what survived, but alot of plants look good. I was amazed at how well my sungold falsecypress survived, basically covered with newspaper and buried under snowcover. My Hick's yew, however, suffered winter damage but more because it warmed up so quickly in late March, and I kept it covered too long. I shouldn't have had the blanket touch the branches, at least not when it warmed up. Another theory of mine is that sometimes it's not the winter temperatures that determine how well plants survive, but the fall weather. A few years ago we had an unusually cold October. By the middle of the month the highs were only getting a bit above freezing. I don't think the plants had the proper warm days and cold nights to prepare for winter, because the next spring many conifers were damaged and especially plants in the 'prunus' family such as my purple leaf sandcherry and 'Rose' sour cherry. Glen

My list would echo Camerons - after two years of heat and drought I am totally done with fussy perennials - I have gotten over the 'need' to have gardens like all the ones I see on the internet and magazines. I need to just concentrate on what grows for me with minimum care and gives me time to actually sit back and enjoy. I would like to add more agastaches and have larger drifts of them - they do well for me. I am also going to do more larger containers. I have found that gardening is an evolving process depending on current climate conditions and health/age - both are changing for me so I will adapt :) ..... Lynne

If you google, you will find dozens of sites with rather specific information, all providing more or less the same information. And if you understand the reasons behind some of these instructions you can determine that they are not frivolous suggestions but have some sound horticultural basis behind them. I hate to state anything in absolute terms - everything has a context that may require some modifications - but the following are factors that will encourage rapid establishment of your new tree and increase its long term survivability. Avoid amending the planting hole. Studies have shown that planting in your indigenous soil and backfilling with the same is preferred. Altering the soil in the planting hole can lead to soil interface issues affecting drainage. If your soil is heavy clay, plant high and mound up to the edge of the root ball with your own soil or an organic mulch. A wide and somewhat shallow planting hole is recommended. The width (and 2-3 times the diameter of the rootball is standard) encourages the outward spread of the root system. Many folks are of the impression that all tree roots go down deeply into the soil, therefore they need to dig a deep hole. While trees will put down deeper anchor roots, the bulk of the root system will eventually be located just under the soil surface. And since many containerized and B&B trees have minimal or congested root systems on planting, they need that freedom to expand. Digging too deep a planting hole often results in settling and your tree will become too deep, a sure-fire way to an early demise. IME, watering of newly planted trees and shrubs is very misunderstood. You want to water in well when first planted, priamrily to remove any air pockets in the planting hole, but also to equalize the moisture level of the rootball and the surrounding soil. Make sure the rootball is adequately moistened before planting - it is pretty hard to rewet a dry rootball once it's in the ground. And you will need to keep the planting area evenly moist (but not wet) for 6-8 weeks. Even in winter this may require periodic watering if your weather is dry. Mulching lightly over the rootball (but keep away from the trunk) will help conserve soil moisture and reduce weeds that may compete. I've seen more new trees die over winter because the owner assumed periodic rainfall was adequate. Regular deep watering is also required through the first couple of growing seasons as well. It is only after this period of time of establishment that the tree will be more or less self-sufficient water-wise, except for periods of extended drought. Avoid fertilizing when planting. The activity of planting and related disturbance stresses a plant and you want to avoid fertilizing a stressed plant. Supplemental fertilizer may be applied later at the beginning of the growing season or next fall when it is most efficiently metabolized, but only if soil tests first indicate fertilizer is necessary. Trees generally require very little in the way of supplemental fertilization. Here is a link that might be useful: basic tree planting instructions

I moved in last September and the builder landscaper put in varigated liriope and mondo grass that you have. I watered it once a week (when it was newly planted) for 10 minutes during that hot, dry fall we had last year. I don't water it at all any more, haven't turned on my sprinklers since last winter actually. With all this rain we've been getting 15 minutes twice a week is over kill. I also don't maintain them at all. The mondo especially has shot up dozens of healthy little baby plants all over the place. I really need to transplant those things. The liriope has flowers on it now, I didn't even know they flowered. You can trim back the brown leaves if you want, it's a very durable plant. Has to be if it wants to survive in my garden...