I know how frustrating that is, it happened to me - we had the tub covered in plywood and the tile man removed it to tile up to the edge of the tub - it was very upsetting to say the least for this to happen so close to completion. I called hydrosystems and they said they have authorized repair men that come in sand and fill the little nick. It's not something I would ever try myself! I left it alone but then the granite guy left something loose that fell in the tub and left a huge chip rather gouge in the bottom so I need to have it done soon, I'll let u know how it goes Rahcel

How frustrating--painting, if done right, is not a quick and easy task. Prepping properly is so time consuming! I can understand how frustrating and disappointing it can be, knowing you did it *right*--and then having less than stellar results. But hang in there; you've done sooo much work, there's bound to be a light at the end of the tunnel! And please be sure to update us on this later...it's so helpful to hear about the final outcome. Hopefully it will be smooth sailing from here on out!

Moonshadow, I matched that one to old BM #198 cornsilk with Pratt & Lambert. I know that color doesn't look like that on my monitor but thats it in real life. Our local BM store isn't my favorite because they have failed me on more than one occasion so I typically use PL. The darker stripes are just satin acrylic poly over flat 198. Hope that comes in handy sometime. Trim was Navajo & ceiling Linen White, both BM matches too. Chips400 what a coinkydink, that is almost exactly the color glaze I am using on a cabinet job right now! Whats even funnier I am in my shop right now making up my batch of glaze for the entire job! I typically make my glaze either with paint or with tints. On cabinets I prefer oil based glaze because its much easier to work with especially to achieve the effect on those cabinets. Ok since the paint store isn't open right now I got to that color of glaze using 2 univeral tints, burnt umber with just a touch of burnt sienna. I used a 16 oz solo cup & the umber tint was only about 1/4 in the bottom & I added glaze to the top of the cup. I adjusted it with the sienna & then added a 1/4 solo cup of thinner & mixed it up. Looks pretty close. This may be a lil difficult for you to do & since I do a lot of this I can duplicate this easily but you might consider using paint in your glaze to make easier to replicate. Since I have my old BM chart here right now & its pouring rain I will use that for a reference. I picked Sedonna Brown #1127. SW should be able to make that no prob. When you add paint to your glaze the glaze will be lighter than the original paint color so I would ask them to add about 10% more tint to the paint. A quart of semi-gloss oil base paint will prolly be more than enough for your job. Then they are gonna complain that the formula isn't gonna break down perfectly so just tell them to get it as close as they can & exact isn't necessary. I don't use SW glaze much but it is much thicker than other brands. I would mix it 1 part paint to 4 or 5 parts glaze. Start with 4-1 & then add one part thinner at least. Get yourself an extra door from your cabinet maker & paint that SW alabaster. This will be where ya test your glaze. If you don't like whatever you put on it just wipe out with some thinner & a rag & it should be good for another try in a couple minutes. Oh you will need to by an entire 5 lb box or bag of white knit rags. I buy the best ones that they have at the paint store & they cost about 10-15 bucks. Its basically thick t-shirt scraps so ask what they are like if they are in a box. Start by brushing some glaze into the outer edge area of the door panel. doors have 5 parts, the top, bottom, side rails & inner panel. Wipe off the glaze leaving more of it in the crevices. This is the final place where you find if your color is right. If you wanna tweak the color then just go back to the paint store & ask them to add a lil this or a lil that. Don't be concerned that the quart formula is messed up cause some of the paint is missing. Just tell them you want a lil more umber or which ever direction you need to go. Once you get this paint color right then make yourself a color swatch so that if you need more you can just take that to the paint store & ask them to match that. You will notice that the more you wipe it off that the color of the door will get lighter but it will still retain the "hue" of the glaze. You won't be able to wipe the glaze outta the crevices all the way depending on the doors profile nor do you want to anyway. When you are ready to do your real doors this is how I do mine. I do one outer edge of the door panel at a time. The final passes wiping the glaze off should be long from corner to corner. The harder you push the more glaze will come off. Then I do the center panel then top & bottom rail ending with the sides. When you do this you will understand why I do it in this order rather than just glazing the entire door & trying to wipe it all off as a whole. For people new to doing this it might be a good idea to get a helper. one person glaze while the other wipes out but glaze person not getting any farther ahead than the next section. This maybe necessary for large panels anyway. Even though the glaze is oil based once you start wiping there is very little "working" time for the glaze. This is probably one of the most tedious types of fauxs to do. Its possible that a glass of wine is necessary in order to do this with some nice calm music! Good luck! Post some pics when you are done & lemme know if you need anymore help.

I have read about this paint called CabinetCoat. People say you don't have to prime and it levels really well. If I don't replace my cabinets I think I am going to try it.