Help! How much does "chemical free" "USA" matter for hardwood flooring
figureskater04
6 years ago
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Hardwood Flooring --- Can It Go On Ceiling ?? HELP
Comments (9)What kind of flooring are you talking about? I can see unfinished tongue and groove wide pine flooring working just fine. live-wire-oak - Why would it have to be installed like flooring is installed? Why does it need a "subfloor" (so to speak)? Couldn't it be nailed to the floor joists or rafters? How is unfinished flooring that different from car siding? If the ply is needed to achieve some effect (like not having the seams all lined up along a joist) wouldn't the same be needed for car siding, anyway? What am I missing? You can buy it and finish it before putting it up. Depending on the size of the ceiling, that wouldn't be all that difficult. (The difficulty, in my mind, comes in when you have to find a place to lay all the boards for staining and sanding.) And because the purpose of a floor is very different from the purpose of a ceiling, you can be a lot less careful than you would be if you were laying floors. I might not even sand it at all. And, it could also be finished in place with a long-handled tool, depending on the finish. I agree, though, after painting just one ceiling in my house, that any ceiling work generally seems hellish. :-)...See MoreCan a hardwood have tooo much hardwood?
Comments (33)Yeah one finished room. (Of course still full of dust) They finished our bedroom yesterday. Still have to enventually come back and do the closet, but for now have moved on to the great room. camlan..Their doing the same thing here. Running the wood with no seams from room to room. I hope ours eventually "glow" right now they just glow of dust, but it still is looking nice. judydel. I like to buy rugs at TJ Max HomeGoods. Patty Cakes.. Oh no. The stairs is what inspired us to do this hardwood job. We just finished painting the stairs yesterday. The carpet that was on the stairs was old, dirty and ugly. It had to come up. My kids are teenagers, so hopefully safety wont be an issue. We'll see if they become too loud, etc., we can always eventually add a runner to them. beth..Your floors, rugs and house are beautiful. Thanks for sharing the photos and experience. work.. Thanks for the advice. I'll remember this for the near future. Id love a sweeper I could run on the floor and not have to worry about damage....See MoreFlooring Pros; Need nail down hardwood floor acclimation/finish HELP!!
Comments (21)The acclimation you've been recommended to use is generally how we've done floors forever EXCEPT when using wider planks. As was noted above, have the plywood and wood checked. If they're too far apart the area can be dehumidified to bring the plywood moisture down and/or the wood will add moisture if it's particularly dry. Make sure the contractor is putting a vapor/moisture barrier (not retarder) between the concrete and the plywood. I don't recommend any barrier between the wood and plywood. Some pros have been burned using (probably cheap) water based finishes and refuse to use anything other than oil based. Others think you should use only the newest technology finishes and exclusively use water based. We use both. With a stained, hand-scraped White Oak, I would choose oil based polyurethane. No water based finish compares to the durability of oil modified. Considering the cost, it's a no-brainer unless you have special circumstances. As to staples vs. nails, we've used both and seen little difference in the performance. My preference would be for nails but the industry seems to have moved more toward staples....See Moredoes the veneer width on engineered hardwood matter?
Comments (4)To refinish hardwood (solid or engineered) you need a minimum of 3mm of surface wood (the "hardwood" you paid for if it is engineered). A "thin" top layer is 2mm or less. That is a "one and done" type of floor. You purchase it for a GREAT price ("almost too cheap" comes to mind), throw it down with the FULL understanding that this floor will look great for about 5-10 years and then you will simply "live with" the look you get after that time frame. You will put up with the dings, scratches, wearing/dulling of the finish until you can gather up another couple thousand dollars to have the floors ripped out and new one's purchased and installed. I've heard of these thin veneers reaching 15 years of age while still looking 'great' and I've heard horror stories of them needing replacement after 7 years (or less in some cases). The thickness of the wear layer (as well as total thickness) also indicate the QUALITY of the product. A $4.99/sf 3/8" engineered hardwood from Lowe's is well and truly a "too cheap" product. This is where I would expect to get 7 years out of a floor...10 if you are really careful and have perfect living and cleaning conditions. For the same price ($4.99/sf) you can have a TOP LINE laminate out of Europe that will be in EXCELLENT shape in 15-20 years from now. The finish on the floor also dictates quality. A low-end urethane (UV urethane, etc) will give you only a few years of service. A higher quality, multi-layered Aluminum Oxide finish (be careful: China is pumping out finishes that LOOK like 9 layers of AO...but it turns out to be 3 layers of AO on top of 6 layers of urethane = great sounding but poor performing finishes). And a thin veneer can have issues with checking (splitting), delamination (peeling), etc. When the top layer is thin it has a tendency to become upset if living conditions are not perfect (humidity maintained with PRECISION = 45% on the nose for the next 15 years). Let us know which product you are looking at and we will help with more concrete advice....See Moretatts
6 years agorwiegand
6 years agofigureskater04
6 years agoUser
6 years ago
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