Dianne, I have quartz (not Caesarstone, they were out of my choice at the time) in my bathroom; looks new 2 years later. Online, you will find many cons or negatives about most any product you are considering buying. I wouldn't let that hinder you, as that's usually the minority. Caesarstone has a warranty. I will be buying either London Grey or Organic White in the next two weeks for my kitchen reno, but I love real marble. This is a happy compromise. Check with the company you are buying and ask if they've had any issues with Caesarstone. I asked the appliance company about Thermador vs. Viking and they gave me their opinion based on what they service the least. Good luck!

Kompy, that is a beautiful kitchen! I like the edge of your countertop. We will go with simple bullnose. It doesn't look as fancy, but we are way over budget, and every dollar counts. For backsplash, we will use the AKDO Desert Sand SL1254-STRPH0. Here is the photo: http://www.akdo.com/products_detail_coll.asp?pid=2257&collid=13. I think it will give our kitchen some colors. Have you decided yet what color you will paint your kitchen?

Following up with a few more details.. Counter edge is Eased 1.5 inch thick. Quartz thickness was 2cm. Fabricators built up the edge to 1.5 inches with mitred corners. The mitre cut hides the seam totally. In CA this is a standard process. 2cm Ceasarstone will not properly cover the 5/8 inch plywood rough top the cabinet maker installs. I almost went with an ogee edge since the house and kitchen is traditional style. But I thought it might be too busy for shaker. The eased edge works well with shaker style. I chose ogee for the bath vanity where the cabinets and crown are more detailed. It fits perfectly in the bath. Or if you have a center island ogee is a nice choice on the island with eased edge on the perimeter. Alot of people opt for that... The floor color is Natural Timber glazed chestnut. I used a dark brown grout but should have gone 1 darker to espresso or possibly black. The grout lines wound up lighter than the tile even though it looked like a good match before install. I went with 1/16th on the spacing, however the box recommends no closer than 1/8th. 1/8th grout lines are wide and the floor will look less like hardwood but I'm not sure if ignoring the directions will compromise my floor in any way down the road. I had the installer avoid "stair step" install method and tried to achieve random length install to mimic hardwood. Essentially when he got to a wall and had to cut a piece I had him start on the other side with the cut piece to achieve a random look. It worked for the most part but this process is tricky. It is better to be there the entire time they are installing so you can make the decisions. I much prefer real wood. The white oak with dark stain pictured all over houzz are the most beautiful kitchen floors but with a 3 yr old it doesn't seem practical, I think it would have gotten destroyed. The wood plank tile is a nice alternative and the cleanup is very easy. Alot of people have actually mistaken it for solid wood. The finish is a matte. Every crumb shows but I'm assuming this is the case with any dark brown floor. One of the keys is finding the tile that is 48 in long, this is the same size a lot of solid wood planks come in. The tile that is 24 in long leaves too many grout lines all over the floor and compromises the wood look. The long plank tiles create some issues with install though, it is wise to have someone who has installed these before. The 24 inch pieces are easier to install. This post was edited by LondonGray on Mon, Jun 16, 14 at 13:25

please wait until it is installed before you decide