Master Bath Hansgrohe Shower on slide bar Hansgrohe Rain shower head that can be used at the same time Thermostatic valve Grab bar Fixtures for a clawfoot tub MASTER BATH I'm guessing that the shower and the clawfoot tub will be separate entities? The links are simply for reference, I'll stay within the Hansgrohe family if able. 1) Hansgrohe Shower on slidebar: You can buy items separately or as a kit. But in whatever combination you'll need: 1a) wall bar 1b) hose to connect handheld shower head to supply outlet 1c) handheld shower head 1d) wall supply outlet/elbow 2) For the Hansgrohe Rainshower head: 2a) Shower head 2b) Shower arm for out of the ceiling OR wall. 3) Thermostatic Valve: 3a) to get the water to the handheld and/or the rainhead, you'll want a thermostatic with built-in diverter to keep things simple. Hansgrohe has the Hansgrohe iBox that will do the trick. For an alternative choice, Hansgrohe has the Thermobalance III valve. It has three outlet ports, you only need two. The extra port can not be capped. So what your plumber can do it to plumb port "A" to one shower head, then loop ports B and C together and have them feed the other shower head. Additional instructions are in the installation manual for the valve. 3b) You'll need a trim kit for the valve to make it all purdy. If getting another valve, you'd need a trim to match that valve. In general, trim kits are not universal. Though they come in different styles, they are matched to the specific valve they are mated to. So always make sure the trim kit will fit the rough-in valve that you have chosen. 4) Grab bar: 4a) You'll want blocking behind the walls for the grab bar. If not, then consider Wing It anchors. 4b) For grab bars and, take a look at grab bar specialists. 5) Clawfoot Tub: Depends on the tub, but you can have faucets that mount on the tub rim, the bathroom wall, or freestanding faucets that come through the floor next to the tub. 5a) Pick your poison! 5b) Now that you've filled the tub, you need to drain the tub. You'll need a drain/overfill mechanism. SECOND BATH: Shower on slide bar (goes over tub in an alcove) Tub spout, stopper etc. Thermostatic valve Divertor? Grab bars Wall mounted fold down seat (one of the users will be my elderly mother. Not sure what to look for here) You can get a complete trim kit for this through Hansgrohe, or again buy the items individually. Complete trim kit but you'd also need the iBox valve listed in the master bath description. The iBox valve and the listed complete trim kit would take care of everything but the grab bars and shower seat. If you wanted to break things out individually, then for the handheld you'd need the same stuff as above: Wall bar, wall outlet, hose, handheld head. For the valve, you'd need the iBox valve and the iBox trim kit or your choosing. Or if using another valve like the Thermobalance II, you'd need the TBII valve and a TBII trim kit or your chosing. The TBII is an "A" or "B" diverter, which is fine for a shower/tub combo. For the tub spout, you'd need to pick out a spout that DOES NOT have a diverter built in to the spout since the iBox valve already has the diverted in the valve itself. The spouts with diverters are usually used with pressure-balanced valves. For the tub, if the plumber is not supplying it, you'll need a drain assembly. Any generic one will do. Grab bars are the same as previous. Shower seats, it's a personal reference, but I like a large shower transfer seat. Sit down, swing your legs into the tub, then bathe while sitting or standing. A lot of links, hopefully they all work. Best, Mongo

I struggle to give credibility to any one that can't substantiate their claim with a photo OK, here's the problem with this. Nobody really cares whether you "give them credibility", whether you believe their experience is true or not, or whether you believe Wolf chipping is an issue or not. Certainly not enough to go digging through their hard drive looking for a picture to post just for you. Particularly since your posts frankly seemed a bit rude. I understand you may not have meant them to come off that way, but they did. Maybe if you'd asked in a different way, you would have gotten pictures. Such as "I'm wondering what the chipping looks like and what areas it tends to happen in. Would you mind posting a picture?" instead of "I think you're lying. Prove me wrong with a picture." All people are trying to do here is share their experiences, and then let others make their own buying decisions based on that information. Most new posters who join these forums and ask questions are pretty trusting, because spammers and people with conflicts of interest generally don't last very long here. If someone replies to a question with their genuine experience with a product, good or bad, the original poster may ask them follow up questions to get more details or clarify things - but since they're grateful for the time that person took to write their responses, they aren't going to thank them by grilling them for evidence that they actually own the product or have/have not had issues. If you don't find the information relevant to you, and want to believe that we're biased against Wolf, are "fear mongering", and that a company like that would NEVER allow something like this to happen, etc. Then go ahead! Nobody is trying to stop you from thinking that, and it's no skin off anyone's back that you bought a Wolf and like it (many people here were in that same boat at one point!). But when you then basically accuse people of making up stories about problems and being too stupid to use an oven properly without the enamel flaking off - you can expect a response. Still, of course it's a public site that anyone can join, and people with agendas occasionally make their way onto it. However, if someone is suspicious of a member, it's usually super easy to spot those people by giving their profile a quick glance. If they just joined the forum, and all their posts are strongly positive or negative about a particular product or service, chances are there's something fishy going on. However, if they have been posting here for years about a great variety of different topics, they probably know what they're talking about and are just trying to help. And, another way to spot someone genuine is to see if their opinions change over time! Again, most of the people here who criticize Wolf about this issue had nothing but good things to say about their ovens before they ran into trouble, and that can be verified by looking at their posting history. Complaining about a product failure 2.5 years after warranty expiration is not terribly reasonable In most cases, I would agree with this. Stuff happens. If something like an ignitor or even a control board happens to go bad not too long after the warranty expires, it may not be the most fun situation to be in, but it could have just as easily happened if you'd bought a different brand, and engaging in online tirades against the manufacturer would not be the most productive thing to do. Just suck it up, fix it, and move on with life. However, replacing an oven liner isn't like replacing an ignitor or a control board. It's the equivalent of performing open heart surgery on a range. The fact that it is more economical in most cases for the manufacturer to replace rather than repair is very telling. And when there seems to be a pattern of the issue happening to more than just 1 or 2 people - it's concerning, and I would argue complaining about it is quite reasonable. Wolf seems to recognize this as well, and although they won't admit that the chipping can actually be a safety hazard, or that it is a widespread problem - they have been known to confess on the phone that it is a recurring issue. In the first "problem" link above I see an oven that was repaired to the satisfaction of the owner, much to the dismay of some. Well, this particular oven was still in warranty, so of course it was repaired to the satisfaction of the owner. It better have been! There has never been any question about Wolf being willing to honor their warranty. They have been said by many to be polite and efficient when dealing with warranty repairs or replacements. The questions start to arise after the warranty expires. Like any manufacturer, Wolf is not obligated to do any goodwill repairs or replacements out of warranty. However, due to the price premium they charge and the advertising they do, people expect more out of them than other manufacturers. In many cases, they have lived up to this expectation, like in the links I gave. Promptly replacing products, in or out of warranty, and after several replacements, if there was still chipping, buying back the oven without resistance or fighting. But the problem is that they are inconsistent. In other cases, they have unfortunately not lived up to it, like in the cases of wekick and the Kails. Both were left with unusable products in under 10 years of use (under 5 years in the case of wekick) with no option to sell back their ovens, or repair without spending thousands with no guarantee it wouldn't happen again. When there are that many reports of this exact same issue happening (and evidently countless other incidents out there that didn't make it onto the internet or didn't even get noticed by the owner), that doesn't seem fair. In the third link I see an actual problem that's from metal fatigue. Does that really matter? I have used self clean ovens of various brands for decades and never run into any issues with the cavity becoming damaged. Besides, the Wolf chipping has been reported in units that have not had self clean run even once. That was her third oven, and the two before it had met the same fate. After three defective ovens in less than a year, can you blame someone for not wanting to try another? Yes, this was one of the cases where Wolf did the right thing, but again, with so many failures that early on, they kind of had to.

It's very easy to do stuff like this on a Mac. If you can't find easy instructions by doing searches or referring to a User Guide, I recommend you enlist the help of younger members of your family or neighborhood kids.

Thank you @HU-257553069!!! :) By 1/3 you mean all same size slabs but all set subway tile style to every third? just trying to make sure I understand what you describe... I looked at Permacon too but the Colors were busier and not as light (the ones in the display).. I thought lighter would look nicer. There’s the Blu smooth in Beige cream too but I wasn’t too sure if there was actually too much yellow for the cream/grey/orangy/browny colour of the house. yes was thinking of adding a sectional in the top Right corner with a table and high potted planters. i Also want to add 2 lounge chairs, and a fire pit... not sure where to put everything. the hot tub will be on the left as pictured. There will be 23 feet of interlock up to the first column (from the house). After that 4 feet from the column (as it is right now). The set up is stressing me out too. Is it okay to have more than one seating area? And to have areas that do not necessarily face each other? finally, not sure if you have an idea but I was going to do a 3 post pergola over the hot tub (with a bar facing the river) but I am thinking the post near the corner sofa will be in the way (Of people in the hot tub, on the sofa or sitting at the bar). What about a half pergola (only 2 posts on the Left, facing the left neighbo)? it would give some height, some warmth with the wood and something to hang lights to. Apologies for the really long post!!