general question about timelines for buiding custom homes
drcindy
6 years ago
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chispa
6 years agoMark Bischak, Architect
6 years agolast modified: 6 years agoRelated Discussions
Home Generator- Connecting to the house
Comments (28)My reply is based upon the following facts. 1. There is no connection from the local power grid to your cabin. 2. The person that originally wired this cabin, followed the standard practices of the trade and the work conforms to the electrical code, including.......proper grounding of all aspects of the system. 3. And that the existing wiring system in the cabin was set up to receive 120/240 volt AC grid power at some point in the future, if it became available. The way I see it, you have two choices. You can either use a "whole house" transfer switch that will allow you to choose between the existing solar power supply or the genset. OR...... you can simply disconnect the wires from the solar power supply and tape them off inside the main panel for your cabin (fuse box/breaker box). You don't need to actually remove the wire from the fuse box itself. This would allow you to easily reconnect the solar power supply system in the future, should the need arise. The purpose of a transfer switch is to provide 100% isolation between two differing sources of power. So, one way or the other, this isolation must take place. IF you don't isolate the solar system from the genset, then the genset will feed power back into the solar supply. Damage may be done but even if it does not do damage, the solar system is a potential loss of wattage from your genset and you could also have a fire and electrical hazard. Once you disconnect the wires from the solar supply unit, you can install the correct wiring between the fuse box and wherever you are placing the genset. If your panel is a standard residential fuse or circuit breaker panel, then it requires 240 volts plus a neutral wire to connect to the genset. You also need to make sure that all grounding issues are taken care of. Some how, your genset must be grounded to the cabin's system. If you are not sure of how to go about this, then hire a licensed electrician to perform the work. Better to be safe, than electrocuted. You also need to consider that many gensets use about a gallon of gasoline per hour of run-time. If it was me, I would be looking at a diesel genset so that I could install a lockable fuel oil tank in the 250 to 500 gallon size on the property. The thought of transporting several five gallon cans of gas in my car wouldn't thrill me. No matter how hard you try not to, you will spill fuel from those containers. Gasoline is a highly inflammable and explosive fuel. You don't want those fumes inside your vehicle. Having a permanent tank that is refueled by a company with a tank truck has many benefits. Plenty of reserve fuel that is far more stable than gas and no worries about refueling a hot engine....See MoreGeneral questions about tile layout with a busy vein-y marble
Comments (29)Its standard here for marble flooring, we go to the warehouse to pickup a slab usually around 8'x5' or more then discuss the final tile cut size to minimise wastage before the installer drylay the marble in the factory to arrange the veining (also to place less desirable tile under furnitures etc). I'm in the process of laying 27"x51" size marble tile for my flooring, still deciding whether to have the veins move vertically into my room or horizontally across it....See MoreModular and Prefab Homes - General Inquiry
Comments (4)mjlb, I am by no means an expert in home or modular construction but I am happy to share my experiences. For the most part, modular homes can be customized to fit just about any design, subject (as always) to budget. General constraints include: - size of module: most modules can be a maximum of 16ft in width and up to 60ft in length (exterior dimensions). When designing a modular home, one has to be careful as not to have certain structural items in between modules. As an example, while it is possible to have windows/doors/stairs in between two modules, it is not preferred. You would also not want to have bathroom fixtures or kitchen cabinets between two modules - Because the size of each module is constrained, adding a few feet of dimension in one particular direction may add significant cost. In my design, I have maximized the width of each module. If I wanted to make the foyer bigger, I would have to add a whole new module and incur additional transportation and assembly expenses. However, once you add a module, the incremental expense to make that module larger (up to maximum dimensions) is not significant. Essentially, there are step function costs. - When you look at my plans, you may be able to figure out that I designed my home to be built with five modules. There are two modules on each floor going "east to west" and one additional module for the kitchen nook I chose modular for two reasons (1) consistent quality and (2) predictable cost. The quality is consistent because the house is being built in a controlled environment and as a result can be built inside out. Also, the same person does the same thing every day � meaning the person who installs sheetrock does the same thing every day on the factory floor or the person who installs trim does that function every day. Of course workmanship is still predicated on the skill of the individual, however the tasks done in the factory are generally not that difficult. The cost is predictable because buying a modular home is like buying a car. You order the options and design you want and you are provided a fixed price that does not change. I know exactly what my cost will be for construction upfront. Having said that, once you finalize the design, there is no changing. Unlike stick building, it is difficult to make changes mid-process and you don�t have the benefit of seeing how things transform from paper to framing. In stick you can get a feel for the room at the framing stage and make changes at minimal expense (e.g., move a door, or window). There is still some level of "skill" to completing a modular home. The house is delivered to the site ~80% - 90% complete. In my case, hardwood floors, tile, HVAC will be completed onsite. This gives a homeowner the opportunity to introduce some customization into the process. I�m happy to answer any specific questions you may have. Overall, I�d say I am very pleased with the process so far. While I have had to compromise on certain design issues, I feel it has forced me to be discipline and stay within a budget. Lastly, If I were looking to build my dream home that required significant customization or tailoring for a challeninging home site I would still go with custom route. Best, Shakeel...See MoreStandby home generator questions
Comments (8)Hi, I am actually quite surprised at the issues you are having with your generator. To me 57Hz to 60Hz is a small difference. To me it seems that you have something else amiss in your wiring of the generator. Computer power supplies are mostly switch mode these days and will be able to adjust to the slightly different frequency. The thing which makes me suspicious is your fan just buzzing. A fan is not like hi-tech, it is just a motor. Why would it start buzzing? It seems that you have something else out of wack here and not just a matter of frequency. If the frequncy was wrong, it would still spin be it slightly slower perhaps. Granted the current may be a little higher, but at 5% difference (57Hz to 60Hz) I think it should be fine. Does your fridge run O.K. as does your lighting? Lighting (vanilla light bulbs anyway) should be the least sensitive to differences in power frequency and up to a point voltage. I have a Cummins Onan generator and everything works just fine on it. My hunch is as follows: 1) 57Hz to 60Hz is a minor issue 2) Something else which is a bigger issue is not right here 3) My guess would be the way the Generator is hooked up to the house, or you may have a generator which is not what you think it is. What is the model of that generator? 4) When the electricians took readings, did they check readings at the computer power outlet? I am trying to reconcile that they took readings, and confirmed that everything was O.K., when you are having these issues. My hunch here is that they took readings at the generator, and those were correct. However they did not take readings at the power outlets to your computer etc. They did not do this because hooking up the house was causing all these issues and they did not want to damage anything. So they checked the readings at the generator only, without hooking it up to the house. 5) Worth getting I think a second opinion from another electrician who has experience in backup power systems. One often confused area is the switching of neutrals, and ground bonding. Backup power systems installs are sort of rare, so if this is your electrician's first time install, then he may have confused the generator hook up at the transfer switch and how the neutral should be handled and how the generator should or should not be bonded to ground. I have included a PDF link which explains the issue. It is sort of tehcnical, but it is important to get it right. Hope this helps, Warmest regards, Mike. Here is a link that might be useful: AC Power Hookup...See Moredrcindy
6 years agorobin0919
6 years agoDavid Cary
6 years agomushcreek
6 years agoVirgil Carter Fine Art
6 years agolast modified: 6 years agoSummit Studio Architects
6 years agoKristin S
6 years agoVirgil Carter Fine Art
6 years agolast modified: 6 years agoopaone
6 years agolast modified: 6 years agoLove stone homes
6 years agolast modified: 6 years agodrcindy
6 years agoVirgil Carter Fine Art
6 years ago
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