Very cute indeed! My own opinion: I would probably add more contrast, or dabble with the curves a bit. Looks more gray than B&W. Just me talking though.

Get rid of the muffin top island portion and just square it up. Small kids and older people alike find it difficult to climb onto bar height stools. Counter height is better. The thing not shown, and that is VITALLY important, is how the island fits into the space, with it's clearances. Really from the measurements that you show, (168") you don't have room for the seating that you show. You need a minimum of 48" between the island and that fridge, and that's with no seating, and a counter depth fridge. For the major traffic way, you're gonna have to account for people going through there, and that needs at least 54", and you'll still bump into people sitting there when carrying something. Take that 168" and minus the perimeter counter with the counter depth fridge there at 30". You now have 138" to work with in the middle of your U. Subtract the needed aisle space of 102 for both sides of the island. . You only the 36" cabinet, and that's not counting the standard overhang. And that's with no seating. If you want seating on one side the room you have left for the cabinet is a 15" cabinet, with 15" of overhang. Sure, you can narrow things down, and have people squeeze their way through THE major traffic path into the home, but why would you do that on a new build? Same with the pinch point around the fridge. If you don't have 48" of room in front of your fridge, you'll have created a congestion zone. This kitchen would be much better traffic zoned if you switched the legs, and then created a peninsula out from the wall by the dining area for your seating, and put a prep sink in it.

Marcolo's ice-water-stone-fire has ruined me for layouts with the fridge and range close together. It's the first thing I check when I look at a layout. That said, my IWSF flag goes up looking at this latest floor plan. You may have nixed this layout, it is basically one of mamagooses above, but I think it has advantages: 1) ice-water-stone-fire 2) fridge on the living room side of kitchen, so folks don't have to walk through/around kitchen to get to it 3) Range and open counter on the dining room side for easy service from stove to table 4) More full use of the island with fridge-sink-range evenly spread around it 5) view from the living room might be more lovely with a centered range hood on that back wall only. It looks like your island may have been entered to wide in your planner. I *think* island depth is 41.5"

You are welcome. I have a 12" Rev-a-shelf trash pull-out, and I find it's sufficient, although I have a large metal covered can in the mudroom. I compost, and recycling is kept in mudroom, but I think it's better to have smaller trash and wider drawers . Accounting for the slides, a 12" drawer has very little actual drawer space. 18" is much better for all the things you've listed, but I wouldn't do less than 15". I re-used some 15" drawers from my old cabinets, and you nailed it--they are my junk drawers, on the end of the cabinet run. You don't need a junk drawer in the middle of your valuable work space. Budget is a consideration, but a lot of GW members have used deep drawers for small appliances, pots and pans, and dish storage. Measure your appliances, pans and dishes first, and plan the drawer depth from there. Your 30" drawers across from the DW would be good for dish storage, with pots and pans on the other side of the range. One advantage of drawers is that anything in the back is easily accessible--no more rearranging everything in the front (on your knees) to get to the items in the cave. Bases with roll-out shelves were popular until folks realized that drawers are the same, but with one less step. Why open a door, then pull out a shelf, when you can just open a drawer? If you like the look of the cabinet doors on the short run, ROS are a good option. You could also consider roll-outs for the pantry. More expensive initially, but years of convenience. I have a feeling that the 9" cabinet is m/l a filler, to keep the range centered. I have a similar cabinet under my baking area, where I store cooky sheets and large cutting boards--it was included as a gap-filler, but it's very useful. If you don't need the 9" cabinet for those items, I'd suggest eliminating it, and adding 3" to each of your other drawer bases on that wall.