Is this the root flare on my crimson maple?
svtterminator
6 years ago
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Mens Tortuosa(5b Omaha, NE)
6 years ago
svtterminator
6 years agoRelated Discussions
Root-Flares and Mulch Mounds
Comments (19)Fairfield, I used incorrect terminology. I meant shredded mulch including shredded bark mulch when I was describing bark mulch and its water retention. Shredded mulch, at least all the different types I have used, certainly retains water much better than pine straw with a little pine bark mixed in. Our open grown pines also mound up like that here, as do junipers and some other species with open grown specimens. I would also think a slow accumulation of material next to the trunk is not as traumatic to the trunk as a sudden pile of mulch inches thick placed in the area. Do open grown trees or trees that are mowed around show this heaving near the trunk more than forest trees? It would make sense that lawnmowers could disturb this process a foot or two away from the trunk by further shredding the bark/needles into very fine bits while also shooting the pieces into the air and away from the spot they fell. John Edit: To tie in the last paragraph with the point I was trying to make. I have dug up several saplings in the understory of the woods behind my house. I surprisingly found in all cases that the actual root flare was several inches below the top of the decaying matter layer on top of the soil. I infer that the seeds germinated at a certain level and then were buried with many years of leaves/stick/bark that take time to decay. This is a very porous layer like what you describe in your picture and can be compressed to an inch or so if it is wet and pressure (from my foot) is applied. So, in a forest that mounding up of pine needles and bark would extend beyond a couple of feet actually continuing out to the forest margin. This post was edited by j0nd03 on Thu, Feb 7, 13 at 11:20...See MorePlease-opinion needed asap re plane trees vs. crimson king maple
Comments (8)Conratulations on your decision to remove the invasive pest from your allee. As you can see their performance in the landscape is often not so great either. You'd be doing the right thing and especially not to patronize the industry any more for those norway maples. For every one norway maple you buy, they will produce 5 more. Makes me want to scream. Last year I planted a London Planetree 'Yarwood' that I bought from a local grower in a 2.5" size and approximately 24' tall for around $100. I've wanted a sycamore-like tree on my street since I saw the ones in Julie's tree diary (treegrowersdiary.com) I replaced a Zelkova that was planted by the builder and had lost all its branches in a variety of storms. This bark on the yarwood is very white and mottled. More so than native sycamore which I would have planted if I could have found one. This year it looks like it's grown another inch in caliper! Got stunned by the Easter Freeze unfortunately. London plane does have a different mature size and slightly different habit than native American Sycamore. It is more rounded and not quite so tall from what I've read. I'm pleased with it so far and can't wait til it drapes over the street. I think you will be happy with it too although I would suggest, as usual, a mixed planting. Maybe drop some LP's here and a little oak there and some elm over there. You see so there is some protection against a total wipeout....See MoreCrimson King died back to the root - Rubrum Maple death damage
Comments (1)1) Never fertilize plants under stress. They are unable to metabolize the fertilizer it tends to just stress them further. 2) This could be merely winter damage or it could be something more serious. Often, winter damage is the introduction some plant pathogens need to take hold and create far more serious issues. The only way you will know for sure what is causing the dieback is to take samples (and photos) of the problems into your extension office. They should be able to forward them off to a plant pathologist (if not one on staff) for an accurate diagnosis. 3) Your zone is really too cold for Japanese maples to thrive. Most are not rated below zone 5 and some only to zone 6. Check out some of the other Asian species of maples that are more cold hardy - Acer pseudosiebioldianum, A. triflorum, A. griseum, and some selections of japonicum and shirasawanum....See MoreIs this too much root flare exposed on my Japanese maple?
Comments (3)I had it in a pot for 2 years in the 5-1-1 mix. When I planted it I made sure not to cover the surface of the rootball with any additional soil so only the 5-1-1 media was exposed after planting. Unless I was supposed to put some soil over it? I thought trees didn't like that so I didn't....See Moresvtterminator
6 years ago
whaas_5a
6 years agosvtterminator
6 years ago
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