@michelerossi Could I therefore already carry out a repotting with pruning of the roots? The answer isn't an easy yes or no. Obviously, you can do whatever you want when you want, but that isn't always the best approach. If I had to make the decision, I would weigh a number of factors, the plant's current level of vitality, light levels, current temperatures, and whether of not I felt it was an emergency situation (whether the plant is likely or unlikely to survive (w/o repotting) until the most appropriate time to repot. You might also have other factors like your schedule or commitments to consider. If the plant is not in danger of succumbing to root rot or the congestion, I'd definitely wait until the optimum time relative to your geography and weather. Is there no need for me to wait for June as you generally indicated? It's not a matter of hard, fast rules re the timing. Instead of "can I" or "should I" repot earlier than June, the question should be what's best for the plant. In our previous discussions I outlined why repotting close to the summer solstice is best. The plant will respond most enthusiastically and recover faster when days are longest/brightest and when the plant's level of reserve energy is at or near peak. Even if the plant is doing poorly now and you feel its level of vitality won't increase between now and mid-June, I'd still wait. I think the only thing that would make me repot now (here in MI) would be if I determined the plant to have a fungal root infection. Can I proceed now even if the plant has some signs of distress as you can see from the bare lower branches (the fourth photo) or should I wait for it to recover in spring? I think I pretty much answered this question in what I wrote above. *********************************************************************************** @kitasei Should I be root pruning my yuzu trees like this?? They are in large pots. When I suggest what you should or shouldn't do, it's always from the perspective of 'what is best for the plant'. Root congestion is a far more insidious robber of growth, vitality, and the plant's ability to defend itself, than 99% of growers realize. Potting up to a larger pot is not an effective strategy for managing roots because there will always be congestion at the center of the root mass. A full repot which includes bare rooting, root pruning, and a change of grow medium completely relieves root congestion and allows the plant to return to its normal rate of growth, level of vitality, and ability to defend itself (against disease pathogens and insect herbivory). A tree that is regularly repotted will normally grow 5-10x faster and exhibit a higher level of vitality, eye appeal, and it will be more productive. If you're objective is to provide your tree with the best opportunity to maximize its genetic potential, repotting (full repots) are essential to that end. Root congestion is limiting and will always hold a plant back. The best time to repot citrus is in the early spring - just before you notice the plant is getting serious about its spring push brought on by warmer temps and brighter/ longer days. Make sure you understand how to go about the repotting process before you dive in head first. Most loss of viability subsequent to repotting is due to overlooking something that seems minor but is important. One important factor is, the roots need to be continually wet during the process. Al

If a Japanese maple, the roots are not invasive with regards to foundations or intact underground plumbing. As to if that is an appropriate distance away from the house and its potential root spread, we have no way of knowing unless you tell us the specific cultivar of maple and where you might be located. They grow differently in different areas of the country and they range in size from 2-3' to 30'. ETA: Just noticed this was a 5 y.o. post :-) Was getting ready to delete my comment but thought I'd leave in case anyone else was wondering the same thing!

EJR - I've advocated for the bare-rooting of trees at repot and transplant time for years, for the same reasons that Dr Scott mentions. I think though, that there are some broader considerations to take into account, aside from simply removing the soil from roots and transplanting as we please. Timing is an important consideration. It's best to repot and transplant temperate deciduous plants when they are not in leaf. Removing the soil from roots is often rather traumatic to fine, feeder roots. Many break, others, if you're not careful, quickly die from dessication, which takes only minutes on dry windy days, especially if you're working in the sun. The stress of summer transplants often sees trees shedding parts the roots cannot support, a survival mechanism in response to drought stress. While the idea you should prune the top in proportion with the roots at transplant/repot time is passe, it may actually be required if you attempt bare-root transplanting when conditions aren't favorable. You see, if WE don't select the branches/foliage to be 'shed', the tree will select them for us, and they use a different standard than the one we would choose - which is generally one based on appearance/symmetry. To minimize stress, I would wait until the tree loses its foliage; then I would lift, bare-root and transplant at an appropriate depth, back-filling with native soil. Al

Without photos that clearly illustrate the problems, it is impossible to say.