Does anyone here have Metatarsalgia?
8 years ago
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- 8 years agolast modified: 8 years ago
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Does anyone on here actually have formica countertops?
Comments (72)Syllabus- Husband and I sort of doctored it up a bit, using various ideas we found on the Internet. I was sure I'd seen a video that gave us a good nudge in the right direction, but I'll be damned if I can find it now! Isn't that always the way? Lol Basically, the way we did it without any special tools or kits, you need to use the laminate sheets rather than the preformed countertops. Build the base of the counter with your plywood or whatever (we had existing countertops which we peeled the old laminate off of, thereby skipping this step). After you have your sink hole cut to size and you know the position of your sink, what you're basically doing is sandwiching the sink between the plywood and the laminate layer. We cut the sink hole in the laminate ahead of time, then epoxied the sink down to the counter, vey much like you would with a standard sink, just laying it in the hole with the edges overlapping. The video I had seen used automotive putty to taper out the edges of the sink itself, much like you putty drywall to smooth out imperfections. We found the putty wasn't drying, and was instead cracking and shrinking. Plan b, plain old wall repair patch, the stuff I keep around for filling nail holes and dents in my walls. Let dry and sand til smooth so that the hard edge of the sink itself is tapered out a few inches in all directions. I painted over the putty just to ensure a nice smooth surface that wouldn't soften or crumble when we put the adhesive over it. Then we used contact cement for the bulk of the laminate, however at the edges around the sink, we went back to the heavy duty marine epoxy, just to ensure it was a solid adhesion. Lay the laminate over the counter, positioning your precut sink hole over the sink (carefully! You only get one shot here!) and roll out to smooth and remove air bubbles. Lastly, I did a thin bead of silicone around the edge of the sink where it meets the Formica. Clear as mud? This would be so much easier to explain with pics or video!...See MoreDoes anyone on here have a Cercis canadensis - Eastern Redbud Tree?
Comments (47)I live in the north shore of Massachusetts. I installed a Cercis Canadensis - Rising Sun Redbud last October - a 5 gallon container tree in a full sun area of my front yard - where there is decent drainage. Made it through the winter with no problems, and the tight lavender buds popped in April . The bark and branching is a light grey and it all appears to be healthy - all branches are still pliable. The tiny lime colored leaves that appeared after budding have now morphed into larger, darker leaves. Watering has been a consistent once / wk process, but we did have some pretty intense rainfall about a month ago. I began noticing slight drooping and wilting of the leaves right before the heavy rains we received. Since then, it has been dry and warm, and the leaves have gotten more wilted and curled. At the recommendation of one of our nursery managers, I tried soaking the root area. There has been no improvement, and the smaller leaves are now drying up. No spotting on the leaves or signs of leaf decay, and no insect issues.. If it weren't for the drooping and wilting of leaves, they'd look completely healthy. In other words, the color and structure of the leaves are fine. The Rising Sun Redbud is a relatively new cultivar, so not much to go on re. diseases, insect issues and tree care solutions... My first inclination was that the tree might be suffering from root rot or a root fungus - based on the wilting and curling of leaves. I checked the soil around the root ball, which is cool and moist, but not wet, and there is none of the distinct smell you commonly get with root rot... When soaking the root area, the water pooled then drained fairly quickly. If anyone has any information on the Rising Sun, this particular issue, and a possible solution please pass along.. Many thanks!...See MoreDoes anyone have a clue as to what I have here?
Comments (7)Looks like dragon fruit = Hylocereus undatus. (It could be Stenocereus, that is very similar). Hope you have lots of room, they grow large and should be staked and tied to be more manageable. (I got rid of plant I had because the size and very sharp spines :) They can be grown from seed. This plant is also used as a rootstok for grafting and could start growing , especially if grafted plant dies....See MoreDoes anyone here have luck growing fig trees in Zone 6?
Comments (12)Bluemoonlight. because of what you said I bought two Negronne and I am going to give one a try in ground. I think it's too late to let any one fig tree to get established but I will plant as soon as spring hits and keep them asleep on my cold porch for now. That dark fruit looks so tasty and sweet! Thanks everyone, it's so good to see some have having productive trees grown in winter climates as cold as I get! Dee, I plant mine up almost against my home on the side that faces south and out of wind to create a different zone for it. Probably a zone 7 or even better on how well I insulate it. Then I will tie all the branches together once they are bare for the winter and then wrap insulation around them from the top to the ground, then put a plastic bag over the insulation to keep it dry. I also mulch mine about a foot up all around the trunk and 2 feet away all around. That's ii. That is my way. Many different ways to do it. Some use chicken wire and make a circle that fits over the tree that allows you to fill leaves all the way to the top and then mulch the trunk area in. This works too. I have done that. As long as the ground does not freeze hard and that you protect the branches and trunk from sub- 0 weather and the cold nasty winds, you should be fine. We are lucky that trees go dormant and need to during this time. You should try it....See More- 8 years ago
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