I fought with our builder over and over to get designs, until I simply taught myself some basic CAD and started sending him my ideas drafted directly. I started with trying to use the trial 30-day version of Autocad 13 from Autodesk, but it was way too complex. I ended up using two open-source alternatives that worked great: LibreCAD (http://www.librecad.org) for the 2D sketches (elevations, tile designs, profile of the kitchen island, etc.) and FreeCAD (http://sourceforge.net/apps/mediawiki/free-cad/index.php?title=Main_Page) for the 3d modeling (finishing of the stairs, interior moulding, etc.). The former is very simple and intuitive to use if you have ever used a CAD. The 3D one is much more complex, but very powerful. Both are free.

Home design software should meet several criteria if is going to be useful without providing a hair pulling experience. Besides giving the user the ability to draw two dimensional room layouts, it should provide 3D visualization. Architects are trained to visualize inhabitable space from flat two dimensional drawings. Most of the rest of us have a hard time doing that. For us, the software provides that functionality. Quality consumer home design software is descended from professional architectural design software. Architects and other design professionals pay thousands of dollars for these programs that provide CAD with 3D visualization. Some of the manufacturers of these programs offer stripped down versions for consumers. Generally speaking, these consumer versions are every bit as accurate as the professional versions, but lack some or many of the features of their big brothers. They tend to be well documented, because the professionals demand it. It is easy and relatively inexpensive to edit existing documentation versus writing it from scratch. The word professional needs to be put in context here. It is a marketing term, and it often abused. Just because a piece of software is labled professional doesn't make it so. However it does usually make it more expensive. :-) Other manufacturers of consumer home design software offer a product that has no roots in professional architectural softare, and it usually shows. In my opinion, these products tend to be cobbled together 3D visualization programs without any real CAD underlayment. As a result they suffer in both accuracy and ease of use. They also tend to be particularly lacking in documentation. The marketing of both types of consumer home design software is shameless. The manufacturers put out multiple versions of what is essentially the same thing with confusing claims as to what can be done with the product. Each version is hobbled in some way in comparison to those versions that cost more. The consumer doesn't find out exactly how the program was crippled until he or she discovers what it won't do, not what it will do. The best bet is to select a product from one of the companies that make genuine architectural design software. There are at least two of them, perhaps more. Buy the most expensive version you can afford. It will be worth it in the long run. I have listed some of the things I feel are very important for the home user. There are a lot of other features that are nice to have but not essential. 1. It should connect walls automatically. Software that doesn't have this feature tends to be very tedious to use. It will take much longer to produce a drawing, if the user has to postion each and every wall manually. 2. It is essential that it provide accurate dimensions from the correct structural components. It is no good to just say two walls are 12 feet apart. It is necessary to define how the measurements are taken. Are they taken from the outside of the framing, the inside of the framing, the outside of the siding, the interior drywall surface, etc? Good software will let you select and set how dimensions are taken. It will also be obvious to someone viewing the floorplan. 3. It should provide you with the ability to define your own walls. A wall definition describes how many layers the wall has, how thick each individual layer is, and what they are made of. It should handle multiple wall definitions. If you can't properly define wall layers, you will lose accuracy. It is insufficient to simply say a wall is six inches thick or four inches thick, etc. 4. It should handle curved walls. They are not that uncommon. 5. It should build staircases automatically. It should not have fixed staircase dimensions. You should be able to set the rise, run, angle, and width yourself. It should handle multiple landings. It should handle curved staircases. 6. You should be able to position and change existing walls without deleting and redrawing them. You should be able to move walls by specifying their length or relative postion to another wall or any object. If you can't do this, the software will be extremely tedious to use. 7. You should be able to break a wall with a click of the mouse and have separate definitions for differing parts of the wall. This requirement may seem exotic, but its not. For example, this is exactly what is needed to properly draw a wall that starts as an exterior wall, then continues across the back of the garage, where it becomes a fire wall by law. 8. You should be able to join walls of differing thicknesses, end to end, if necessary. 10. There should be a user definable grid that can be turned on or off. There should be a user selectable feature to snap objects to the grid. 11. It should be able to handle all types of foundations. It should not restrict you to predefined slabs, crawl spaces, and basements. You should be able to mix foundation types on the same plan. 12. You should be able to set the floor height of each room independently. There should be a means to have a change in floor height within a room. 13. Floor heights should be set relative to the ground. You should be able to set floor heights to negative values. 14. It should handle multiple unconnected structures in the same plan. 15. You should be able to set the ceiling height of each room individually. It should handle coffered ceilings. It should handles soffits and firdowns. 16. You should be able to select moldings. You should not be confined to a particular style. 17. Roofs are one of the most difficult things to draw. It should automatically generate the roof. All parts of the roof should be manually editable. You should be able to draw a roof manually. It should handle all roof types, not just gable or hip. It should handle mixed roof types, even if they must be manually drawn. 18. There should be specific provisions to draw and edit dormers. 19. It should be capable of handling attic living spaces or story and a half designs. 20. There should be a generous library of windows and doors. These should be of all common types, and they should all be editable for size and position in all directions. It should also be possible to have door frames without doors, and framed openings without casings. 21. The program should be able to display how the sun's rays will strike the house on any given date and time. This is essential to determine how light will affect the interior of the home. To do this, the program must have provisions for inputing the exact latitude and longitude of the home site and the orientation of the structure on the property. This functionality is lacking in many programs. 22. There should be a generous library of kitchen cabinets. These should be editable in industry standard increments in all dimensions. 23. There should be a generous library of furnishings and fixtures. It is essential that furnishings be editable for size, so that you may position furniture symbols in your floor plans that are sized to match your own furniture. 24. There should be multiple 3D views that can be turned and tilted. There should be an overview. There should be a dollhouse view, which allows you to look inside the house without the roof or the floor above in the way. This single feature will provide more insight into how well your design will work than any other. 25. You should be able to take sectional views of the house. 26. The program should support multiple layers. This allows you to control what is printed and what is not. Layers can also be used in difficult editing situations. 27. The program's default setting should be changeable. Virtually every default should be under the user's control. It is essential that the defaults be stored in the drawing's file. 28. There should be complete and thorough documentation. There absolutely should be a tutorial. The lack of a tutorial is a red flag. Any program that meets all of the above will have many more features, including multiple material selections, import capabilities etc. It certainly will not be the least expensive in any given product line up, but it will be a lot more capable and a lot less frustrating than most.

Yes, you just have to hunt for it. I've linked to a couple where you can use your own photo. (Were it me I'd select a checkerboard floor pattern, whether linoleum or tile, and use that to see how you like it.) I've used this kind of software eons ago, the best thing you can do is start with a good photo of your kitchen. Straight on view (not from a side angle). No tilt to your pic, plenty of natural light, bright and crisp. Otherwise you'll get a funky end result. Oh, and check with major flooring manufacturers (Shaw, Mannington, etc.). Pretty sure the one I used is a freebie Mannington lets you download to your PC. You might not be using virtual paint, but I'd bet you can get a pretty close idea of what works & doesn't by using their floor colors and pattens in your room. Meanwhile: http://www.diylife.com/2007/12/04/flooring-selection-a-snap-with-virtual-design-tools/ Oh, here you go, this person posted an entire list: http://www.city-data.com/forum/home-interior-design-decorating/557883-virtual-interior-design-tools.html The other option is use a photo edit program, and Copy/Paste other floors you like into your room. Start with your own good photo. Then via Google images search for a floor ("black and white checkerboard floor"). Once you find an image of the floor style you're going for save it to your PC. Have both your own pic & sample pic open in your photo editor. (You might have to resize one or the other, both photos should be the same size so the floor pattern isn't too tiny or too huge in your photo.) Then in your room photo, use the Select tool and outline your floor area. Jump over to the sample floor picture that you like and select a comparable size area. Then Copy the sample flooring section, go to your photo and 'choose Paste into selection'. Your editor might have a different command, but you want to paste to selection (your outlined floor) otherwise it will paste over the entire photo or go haywire somehow. ;) Every photo edit is similar but different, so the commands are there, it's just a matter of finding them. Hope that makes sense!

I used Better Homes and Gardens Interior Designer when designing our new house. It really helped with visualizing the floor plans. It also has a library of different manufacturers paint colors you can use. You can import pictures as well. It's made by Chief Architect. It certainly is not the easiest software to use(has a learning curve) and does have a few quirks that can get a bit annoying, but it's relatively inexpensive. Here is a link that might be useful: BHG Interior Designer