Do I need an Insta-Pot?
8 years ago
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- 8 years ago
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new potted dwarf Bonanza peach tree-looks good, need I do more?
Comments (12)I bought 2 bonanza dwarf peach trees back in 2009. They are planted in the ground and have doubled in size since being planted. Currently they are about 4' - 5' tall. They are healthy, bloom like crazy, and every year for the last 3 years they've been covered with "would be peaches" HOWEVER the fruit NEVER develops into an edible peach. The fruit stays green and gets a bit bigger than a peach seed then JUST STOPS. Why? Is this normal? Granted, I probably shouldn't have bought peach trees at Lowes but I'd never seen a small variety and the tag on these said they wouldn't get larger than 6 feet (which was perfect for my yard). Why are they setting fruit but not producing mature fruit? Here's one of the trees (below). The other one is 8 feet to the right (not pictured). Here's how big the "fruit" is (below). It has been this size for a month with no sign of getting any bigger - just like last year, and the year before that (sigh)....See MoreHow many gallon pot do i need to have a dwarf peach tree?
Comments (4)I shouldn't answer for someone else, apologies in advance FN, that is what is known in the greenhouse industry as "pad and fan evaporative cooling" -- what you see on this end of the greenhouse are cellulose pads that are kept moistened by a constant, light drizzle of water from above. On the other end of the greenhouse, somewhere out of the photo, is a big fan that moves the air. As the air moves over the moist pad, water evaporates, cooling the air quite a bit -- exactly how much cooling is achieved is a function of factors such as the air flow and more importantly, the dew point/humidity of the air. Pad and fan cooling is very effective in dry areas, somewhat less so in areas that are very humid/high dew point. I think it's quite common to get a reduction in temperature of about 20 degrees F....See MoreDo I need to re-pot my spider-plant?
Comments (5)If the root/soil mass can be lifted from the pot intact, your plant will benefit most from a repot, and to a lesser degree from potting up. Although it has comments that go beyond the scope of your questions, you might find some value in the info I posted previously to a thread about spider plants: Spider plants are not very tolerant of significant levels of dissolved solids from tap water and fertilizers in the soil solution, so using water from the dehumidifier, rainwater, snow melt ... is an excellent choice, because as condensate, it will be entirely free of dissolved solids. While necrotic leaf tips or margins can occur in this plant from over/under-watering, in fact, it's much more common for the actual cause to be a high level of soluble salts in soils. It's also commonly reported that this plant is particularly intolerant or fluoride, but it's still more common for the cause of leaf burn to be a high level of solubles, to which fluoride can be a contributor, than it is to be fluoride itself. WHEN there is a high level of salts in the soil, low humidity can be a contributor, but low humidity alone rarely presents an issue, it must be in combination with a high level of soluble salts in the soil and either over/under-watering. Of course, you cannot correct the already burned tips (they won't 'heal'), but you can take steps to keep it from happening: A) Most important is to use a soil that drains very freely. This allows you to water copiously, flushing the accumulating salts from the soil each time you water. B) Fertilize frequently when the plant is growing well, but at low doses - perhaps 1/4 the recommended strength. This, in combination with the favorable watering habit described above, will keep soluble salts levels low, and keep levels from rising due to the accumulative effect we always see when we are forced to water in sips when plants are in water-retentive soils. C) When watering, using rainwater, snow melt, water from your dehumidifiers, or distilled water also eliminates the soluble salts in your tap water and will go a long way toward eliminating or minimizing leaf burn. D) If you make your own soils and use perlite, be sure the perlite is rinsed thoroughly, which removes most of the fluorides associated with it's use. E) Allowing water to rest overnight doesn't/won't do anything in the way of helping reduce the amount of fluoride (the compounds are not volatile), and it only helps with chlorine in a very few cases, depending on what method of chlorination was used to treat your tap water; but nearly all municipalities are currently using chlorination compounds that are entirely nonvolatile, which means they won't dissipate into the air. Al...See MoreDo I need to transplant into bigger pot?
Comments (7)I've looked at those plants sold by HD and Lowe's up close and personal. The varieties they are incorporating into those set up all seem to be determinate varieties (at least the ones I have seen). Do you know the variety name of yours. So IF yours is an determinate (and from appearance i think it is) your choice becomes (1) leaving it as is and carefully monitoring its moisture and nutrient levels in the hopes of preventing BER from developing and getting some moderate fruit production or (2) transplanting it into a proper size larger container (like the clay colored one next to it in the pic) with a good soil-less potting mix added so that it has a much better chance for optimal growth, fewer problems and much improved fruit production. The choice is yours to make. Some would say leave it as is and take what you get. Personally, as a commercial grower I hate seeing those set-ups as they are doomed to problems IMO. I prefer providing optimal conditions for optimal production. So yes, I would transplant it. If you decide to do it, just remove the plastic bracket support, push around on the sides of the plastic pot carefully to loosen the root ball, grasp the center stem about midway down, and lift out the whole plant. Set it into the new pot that already has 3-4 " of well wetted potting mix in the bottom and fill in all around the sides of the roots with freash soil. Water well. Give it 24 hours in the shade for 24 hours before moving it back into full sun. Dave...See More- 8 years agolast modified: 8 years ago
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JasdipOriginal Author