Sun, you want the blower to shut off when it is not cooling or heating like a window AC or heat pump and like the ducted systems that you are used to. Even window units do not do that anymore although some can be set that way to improve dehumidification. (It cuts into the raw efficiency numbers.) Even better central/ducted systems don't work that way anymore. The blowers and compressors are variable or multi-speed. The blower on your system should slow down as it approaches the set point. It should be imperceptible, but still running unless you turn the whole system off. (You can manually set it to a higher speed.) I Think that you just need to understand and get used to modern functional characteristics that will give you better performance performance in terms of both efficiency and comfort. Don't be afraid to keep posting about your experience. I am not familiar with ceiling cassettes. It is possible that your system is not working the way it should. Try to be as descriptive as possible and post the manufacturer and models of your system. Your posting might help educate others who have or are thinking about installing your type of system. This post was edited by ionized on Fri, Jun 13, 14 at 12:06

Your appliance salesman is seriously confused and misinformed. There is NO requirement that the wall opening be above the dryer. That's just plain silly. Bends in the exhaust ducting ARE permissible, but must be kept to a minimum number. Every 90* bend adds resistance to the airflow and reduces the allowable maximum length of the ducting. Check your dryer's installation instructions for details, it should include explicit details on length vs. number of bends. Use SOLID-FLUME ducting, not the expandable/accordion stuff which adds resistance to the airflow. (I think that's to what ottlane is referring above -- old-style expandable ducting ("past hose"). Based on your picture, I'd vent it out that right wall (which is directly to the outdoors), through the cabinet beneath the sink, cutting 4" holes in the cabinetry panels as needed. The machines will have to be moved forward from the wall by 6" or so to accommodate the ducting (and the bend behind the dryer). Whoever designed your laundry room is an idiot (apologies for the comment if it was you and/or hubby!) for not facilitating proper exhausting of the dryer ... but that's not unusual. It would have been so much more reasonable and accommodating to place the machines ON the right wall and rearrange the cabinets accordingly. An alternative is swap the washer and dryer positions (if you can get longer water supply and drain hoses for the washer to reach the connections) so the dryer ducting does't have to pass behind the washer. OR ... you could consider running the exhaust up INSIDE the wall behind the dryer, into the attic and to the right for outdoors access. There are connection flumes available that recess into the wall so the dryer can sit more flush to the rear wall. The questions on this method are the additional expense, whether attic access is possible, and the impediment in-wall and through-the-attic exhausting presents to the future need to clean the ducting (it WILL accumulate lint residue and need to be cleaned). Don't even think about a ventless dryer. There are very few on the market and they are troublesome.

I had a Bosch condenser dryer with the same model washer as egganddart. It was not especially slow. It did a very good job. It was in a closet in the kitchen and the door needed to be left open. It did make that area warm but to say it heated up the house (which was an apartment with open kitchen) is not true. It replaced an illegal vented dryer that was not vented (long story) but we did not see any increase in the electric bill after putting it in. The only nuisance was a grill that had to be cleaned periodically. If someone doesn't have space or option for a vented dryer then condenser is the only real choice. Miele most certainly does make a condenser dryer. And I'm told they are discontinuing their vented dryers -- enduring and I got some of the last ones it seems. I don't see why you couldn't get a Miele washer and a different dryer -- buffalotina has that set up I believe. The only thing is can it be stacked with a different machine? If it needs to be stacked or fit into a closet then you're basically talking about pairs unless there is some super clever solution I've never read about (which there very well could be). Why I posted about the washer is because it does exactly what the OP says she wants. Excellent on hand wash. Excellent high temp cycles (sanitize is 165F and if you want to see an example I'm attaching the Miele cheat sheet which shows espresso stained chinos before and after. ) The high speed spin is excellent. And everything is adjustable. The Miele dryer is good to very good I would say. I didn't like the Asko dryer at all. My recollection is that I liked the Bosch condenser dryer best but it was nowhere near as adjustable as the Miele dryer which can partially dry woolens without issue. Miele's dryer has some very delicate settings I've not seen before. I par-dries woolens without shrinking. But it doesn't overdry towels or sheets. (I also have their rotary iron and it has a setting for that). The clinker is the cost, no question. I started out wanting the Bosch as I had liked that pair a lot. But the Bosch washer lacked the high heat which is essential for stain removal and whitening. Here is a link that might be useful: Miele Fans Washer Cheat Sheet

@ Milly Ray....do you have one? I have a Miele Little Giant ductless, condensing dryer and it is 1000% NOT awful awful awful awful!!! It is amazing amazing amazing amazing. It dries almost as fast as a vented dryer. Everything is smooth, fluffy and wrinkle free. Yes, it makes the area warm where the ventless dryer is installed, but there is NO moisture, and there should be NO moisture coming out. If this is the case for you, then YOUR machine is defective. You just cannot say something is awful, when a large % of the world uses condensing dryers, and most are excellent!!!