Thanks for taking the time to reply. juliekcmo - It is good to know about the EPA card - I wasn't really planning on a full DIY. If I went with one of the high velocity systems, I would try to cut down on as many labor costs as possible. So, I likely try to do the things I can do myself, like fish the ducts through my walls. That is probably 80% of the labor right there. ionized - Just to give an understanding of my third floor - yes, there are knee walls up there, and there is a finished ceiling. There is a 2'x3' hatch in the ceiling that I open during the summer. When I do this, I can see the peak of the roof (and the powered fan) whuch is only 18"-24" above the hatch. There are a few spots where knee walls aren't quite finished and I could probably crawl behind them. It is very old construction up there and, if I were to do anything with that space, I would gut it and start over. So, I would have the capability of sealing everything up nice and tight. I hope that explained things a little better. I do have my house pretty well sealed. I have all new double pane windows and have installed new entry doors. The only thing I haven't done is insulate the exterior walls (working on abandoning the old knob and tube electrical wiring first). I grew up in a house with forced air heat with a humidifier. I never realized how much I needed that humidifier until I moved here. I currently sleep with a portable humidifier during the winter and that seems to help a whole lot, but I would rather have a whole house solution so I don't have to deal with the portable one. I am not anxious to get rid of my radiators, but I am not totally against it if it would make sense while installing a new system. I didn't realize mini-splits could be installed on an interior wall or ceiling - that's good information to have. The need for a humidifier is still a sticking point with me, but it is good to know. Thanks again!

This is indeed a rare, wall-hung dental cuspidor. They were first popular in the late 1919s when it was considered unsanitary to brush one's teeth where one washed the hands. They were first added by the wealthy. They gained popularity in the next twenty years and then as quickly were gone. Here are pics of two such dental cuspidors from a Victorian mansion that my sister is considering rehabbing. Simply gorgeous. These were not originally intended to hold water and most did not have facets, but rather spouts, and most did not have stoppers to allow water to be held.

Hi Tara -- lots of great advice upthread about how to transform the feel of the rooms while doing very little to change the architecture (also on team remove shutters here...and preferably put nothing up...I've only ever seen accent windows like that left bare but...). April's nailed it re the before/after shots (perhaps a wide-angle lens, too?). You aren't that far away from your own after in that space, though it may not feel that way. Whether you end up with paler or deeper wall shades the key is complementing the wood, so Google This Old House tips for cleaning it so you're working from the best starting point. As someone who's lived in vintage fixers and been involved with fixers I also just wanted to offer encouragement. There's a real mental health toll to living in disarray with no end date, spending spare time fixing, not having enough budget to fix or decorate immediately, perhaps navigating different priorities for what gets fixed when, etc. If any of those apply it's draining...not sure of your story, but if they all apply it can cause even more issues. If you have space to call one room or closet or whatever the crap room, do it and clear as much as possible out of these rooms. If you can DIY the scrubbing and painting do that asap...i think you'll feel a real lift when you walk through the door. If you need to furnish on a tight budget, post separately for ideas you may not have thought of. While I love love love older homes they can carry so many styles of design -- see examples others' posted plus homes of Europeans, who laugh at our idea of "old." I Rx zero heavier dark wood pieces since you're already struggling...hopefully your husband will be on board!

Another vote for keeping the floor, but it needs work. Stains near the toilet make me think that it needs a really good cleaning. Or the grout needs replaced. If the grout is bad, get the floor evaluated for soundness. Is the underlayment rotted anywhere? If no, then you can get the grout replaced. If the grout is fine, it may be saved with the right kind of cleaning. Before you start, you might try getting a pet urine solution from the pet store (Simple Solution or Natures Miracle are the brands I see.) Soak the tile and grout with it near the toilet and then keep it damp with a towel that is damp with the solution. Leave it there a few days. My fruit stains completely disappeared in two days off a white shirt using this stuff. Gotta keep it damp, though. It is an enzyme solution that actually digests the urine. Later rinse and let it dry. If it works a little, but not enough, do it again. If it does not work, give up. Previous cleansers used there can make it so these do not work. If there are still stains, you may need to replace the floor grout. Make sure whoever does this knows what they are doing and won’t chip tiles! You will then have a gorgeous floor. The poster above may be right about the pedestal sink. The small vanity was added in the 1970s or later. Makes me wonder what there is no plumbing in the long vanity. If you are still there, we need a layout. That consists of a drawing with measurements of all walls, windows, doors. We can’t do much without that.