Obviously, I do not possess either the magic touch or the right soil because my sunny allotment is just too dry to provide that elusive 'moist but well drained' soil - they fizzle out very quickly. On the upside, the gardeners I know who have managed this, have found imperata cylindrica rubra grows only too well, often running a bit naughtily. I cottoned on to uncinia rubra and carex testacea which have replaced the temperamental imperata, although without the really intense crimson colouring (although the uncinia especially, manages a nice array of bronze and rust).

In your zone wouldn't you have to overwinter bloodgrass indoors? I'm in 6b and planning to pot mine up to bring into an unheated studio.

I did have multiple clumps overwinter at my other house, which was zone 6, I think I'm a 1/2 zone colder now (I think 5b) - I don't know if that would make much of a difference, though. Blood grass is readily available around here, so makes me think it is at the least marginally hardy.

It is readily available around here also, but in the annual section.

There are red selections of hardier grasses available. I haven't had any luck with them either, but probably worth looking into. I wouldn't even think of planting them in the fall, though.

To be perfectly honest, before this thread appeared, I had no idea that Japanese blood grass was considered difficult to establish. It seems to grow perfectly well here, although less favored an OG compared to other selections - like hakonechloa :-)) The bigger issue is keeping it relatively contained. Like hakone grass, it spreads rhizomatously but quite a bit more aggressively. It is a cool season grass, so fall planting is very appropriate. It does appreciate a consistently moist soil.

Japanese blood grass should be fully hardy to at least zone 5 so I see no need for it to be provided indoor winter protection.

We are talking about Imperata cylindrica var. rubra or the 'Red Baron' variety, right? And not Pennisteum setaceum 'Rubrum' (red fountain grass), which is NOT winter hardy in colder climates, even one as mild as mine.

Aggressive? That's a laugh!!! Definitely not the case in my experience, but of course you're in totally different gardening conditions.

Yes, talking about "Red Baron". I've seen other red-tinged grasses, but none with the same short, upright growth habit as "Red Baron" - it really fits the bill beautifully in certain spots, I use it to draw the eye to various points in the beds/along paths.

I bought a clump of hakonechloa "All Gold" this year - planted it next to a big blue hosta, the name of which I don't remember. This is the first time I've ever planted this plant - it's gorgeous, I hope it does well.

In general grasses grow their root system in the spring and not in the fall. For that reason the mortalality rate for any grass planted late in the growing season is very high in colder climates. That is why they are so cheap this time of year. Since you have already planted them make sure the spot has excellent drainage, then I would mulch heavily and for extra protection cover each grass with a large (2-3 gal for a one gallon plant) nursery pot weighted with brick or stone, Good luck.

^^ Good idea

"In general grasses grow their root system in the spring and not in the fall. For that reason the mortalality rate for any grass planted late in the growing season is very high in colder climates."

This is true for warm season grasses but cool season grasses - like the blood grass or hakone - remain in active root growth quite late into the season. Fall is a major growth time for them and establishment is usually excellent!

Oh. I googled it and learned it is noxious weed in many places...I had no idea. Well, because it can be difficult and is not aggressive up here, hopefully it won't be an issue.

It is only the solid green form that is considered invasive. var. rubra or Red Baron are apparently flowerless/seedless and far less aggressive in their spread. But both have been reported to revert to the solid green form from time to time and if so, any green sprouts should be completely rogued out.

mxk3, I have been growing hakonechloa here in my zone 5 garden for years. Both the variegated form and All Gold. My first variegated one (aureum?) is about 10 years old. It is about 2 feet wide and in full sun for the first half of the day. I planted new ones nearby in a different bed last year. The big one is starting to send runners into other plants, but it took years before that happened. I pull them out using the tip of a pointy trowel to help dislodge them, and transplant them. Maybe half take. I would not call it aggressive at all.

They are slow growers. All were planted in spring or summer. The oldest one I might have gotten on clearance in the fall, but I don't really remember.

The newest ones started sending up plain green shoots in their second year. The old one has never done that. I just pulled them out.

I planted 2 All Gold about 3 years ago. They are in full bright shade. They are doing well. All Gold does turn chartreuse later in the season. At least in the shady area where I have it.

I have a couple of Bowles' Golden Sedge as well. The 2 grasses have a different form so both look good. The sedge does not like any direct sun. I had to move all of it to the full shade bed. I have found hakonechloa to be more tolerant of different sun conditions.

I was referring to the blood grass being invasive, not the hakonechloa (I don't know if that is or not) - but I'm glad you posted your experience about the slow growth, I won't be disappointed now that I now what to expect. :0)

I have tried growing the variegated hakonechloa several times. Cole thinks it’s dog-candy and mows it to the ground! There’s none of it left now.... A neighbour grows bloodgrass in their front bed. It spreads, but very slowly and the patch has never got very big. They planted a few more plants this summer to try to spread it further faster....

Yes, I grew it once..and promptly decided it was too much (aggressive) and erradicated it. It's either feast or famine with some grasses.

I have the variegated hakonechloa in shade in a planting of Eastern Hemlocks. Have no problems with it but it is slow growing/spreading (which can be an advantage to those to worry about aggressive spread). Regarding the Japanese Blood Grass..., it has a very low tolerance for droughty conditions. It is commonly sold and cheap in the big box stores here in NJ. I have it currently in a pot in my garage as I have not an a chance to plant earlier so now may just wait until the Spring. Key is keeping it well watered especially in the first year as it gets established. Should be hardy into zone 6 though. As for animal munching, the deer leave all my grasses and bamboo alone!

mxk3, it's slow but SO worth it! When I wanted faster coverage in the new area I planted 6 2L pots. This is where I plug in the runners that crop up from the original. It is beautiful all the time. When the seed heads form? Wow! Like a golden tan froth over the leaves.