Finishing an Attic - How to Insulate
Arthur Smith
6 years ago
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Arthur Smith
6 years agoRelated Discussions
Plaster in finished attic replaced with insulation and drywall
Comments (5)I do think from your description that the failure of the drywall ceiling is a result of lack of venting between the top of the insulation material and the underside of the roof. For starters, I would poke around and see if you have pre-formed (often pink, but possibly blue) foam pieces with ridges tucked up under the roof. These are installed between the rafters in cathedral ceilings (which is technically what you have from an insulation point of view, no matter how garrett-y your rooms feel). If not, then that's your problem (or problems) in a nut shell. You can research this on the Owens-Corning website which has lots of instructions about venting cathedral-style roofs. And you can look over these pieces at any Home Depot/Lowes. It will make sense when you see them. You may need to remove, install roof venting and replace the wall/ceiling surfaces. The plaster may be damaged more from aggressive removal of adjacent surfaces than from roof deflection, but one can't tell without studying it. And you may also need additional venting on the kneewalls now that the attic has been converted into living space which generates a good deal of moisture. You can cut down on this by installing proper vent fans for the kitchenette and bathroom areas, but you will still need under-roof ventilation, if not soffit vents, as well. It sounds as though the attic work was done by DIY amateurs. And that brings me to the most serious point that occurred to me: is it possible your attic has been converted into living space on the QT, and without benefit of building inspections, permits, (and unfortunately, increased property taxes) etc.? It may seem like a persnickety issue, but the chief risk in my opinion is that your attic living space - if done sub-rosa -might not have sufficient, legal, means of egress in an emergency. If you never have an emergency, it might not matter, but in the case of fire, inadequate escape routes can lead to the death of occupants and firefighters attempting a rescue. This is a very serious risk, and not one I'd care to undertake; it has the potential for devastating financial, legal, and even criminal consequences. While you noodle on that risk, you can research the catherdral ceiling vent issues on line. If you think structural compromise might be the reason for the plaster cracking, then an old-house friendly structural engineer (and many are not) would be the one you need. Consultations with roofers, insulation contractors and plasterers will not resolve the central issues and may lead to unnecessary, off-point work at this stage. Aside from permitting issues, however it doesn't sound that dire, though ripping and venting and replacing the wall and ceiling surfaces won't be any fun in the heat of the summer. HTH, Molly~...See MoreHow to insulate empty attic (no equipment)?
Comments (10)Posted by rwiegand (My Page) on Wed, Feb 19, 14 at 8:43 ... In an unused attic there's no reason not to pile up insulation to R60 or more. Rolling fiberglass batts perpendicular over the existing insulation is fast and easy, cheap and effective. Just don't block the soffit vents. Finding and stopping air flow should be your first priority though. So I found out from my builder that the attic over the colder master suite area is: R38 & is passive ventilation via combination of eaves, ridges, & side gables. Also that side has 4" walls vs. 6" for the rest of the house. So that explains some of the causes. Additional topping of blown cellulose would be no problem in an unused space but can it actually provide more comfort if I took it to R60? I really don't care about savings as much as comfort when all is said & done esp. if it's just 5% for 675 sq ft. Just don't want to have to pay for a Bentley (foam) when I could be happy with a Mercedes (more cellulose) if you know what I mean....See MoreInsulate attic in 1920s craftsman with converted attic
Comments (12)OP here. My roof is in great shape so I won't be replacing it any time soon plus it has some interesting curves to it so adding rigid foam and sleepers over the roof deck might be more trouble than its worth. See pic: I do have the gable vents and the giant vent over the porch so I think ventilation in the front part of the attic (the shorter knee wall in the original picture) is ok. I think what I've decided to do is to add soffit vents on the back of the house (where there are no intake vents). Then I'll install a foil radiant barrier on the bottom of the roof deck in all of the accessible attic areas. I will pull down the wood paneling stuff, add rigid foam between the studs in the knee wall as well as the roof rafters, and install sheetrock over it all. Its all 2x6 so I should be able to get 4 inches of foam (R20 or so) in there while still leaving a 2 inch gap for air flow under the roof. I found a guy on craigslist selling 4 inch closed cell foam at 75c per sqft. I've also thought about being cheap and just using fiberglass batts (r16) with baffles on the roof deck instead of foam. That would cost r4 but save quite a bit of money. So long as I make sure I've got a good air seal with the sheetrock and plenty of ventilation, after that, its all down to r value right? I've also essentially given up on the thought of spray foam on the roof deck. That would cost in the neighborhood of 5k plus the cost of ripping off and reinstalling the sheetrock....See MoreHow to insulate finished attic 1920s 1 1/2 story bungalow
Comments (2)I don't see the insulation location being a bad thing unless you've had problems with ice dams or leaks. It is difficult to properly insulate and vent a cape with upstairs rooms. Ours is insulated in a similar fashion and the only negatives are icicles and shingles don't last as long. green building advisor.com has some good advice about insulation strategies for capes....See MoreArthur Smith
6 years agoArthur Smith
6 years agoArthur Smith
6 years agolast modified: 6 years agoArthur Smith
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