Bathroom remodel help
B L
6 years ago
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roarah
6 years agolast modified: 6 years agoRelated Discussions
Bathroom remodel help
Comments (4)Thanks! The trim laying on the floor is unfinished. We had originally planned to stain trim to match the floors and the rest of the basement, but then decided to wait until we had decided on a vanity before we chose a trim color. The walls are honestly not as dark and beige as the pic shows. The room is dark as we have not yet installed any vanity lighting. The bathroom will not be a kids bathroom per se, just a basement bathroom, but small children will be using it when downstairs...See MoreOwner's Bathroom remodel help needed
Comments (2)Darn it, I fumbled my notepad and it posted my comment unfinished. I think the bases in the bottom photo are larger than your 30” ones, so there is more space from sink edge to tower side than yours will have. Elbows are important to consider when you move to full-depth towers next to sinks. Do your elbows ever go out to the sides when your face is over the sink or close to the mirror? With a 30” sink, you could bump against the tower sides. I am super myopic and have to be up near the glass to apply eye makeup, for instance, so I would need room for elbows. If you and your partner don’t get that close, and don’t splash water outside the sinks, you may find your set-up is practical. Others feel it is too close. Tower side wood can get wet. So be sure to measure how far sinks would be from the sides of the towers and if you like that. Another thing people find a problem with your proposed set-up is where to put the hand towels. Some lay them on the counter between sinks, others have a countertop towel holder or towel bars on the cabinet doors under the sinks. Be sure to figure that out before you decide on design. My guess is that the vanity would be longer if you keep your current closet. You have to decide if that matters to you....See MoreBathroom remodel help
Comments (7)Your deflection rating will need to be assessed. Deflection ratings are CHANGED (increased) by adding PLYWOOD. Cement backer board is NOT structural. It is always advisable to use TWO layers of subfloor. The first layer is attached to the JOISTS (the slats you see are the first layer and are considered 'useless' with tile so you might as well get rid of them). The second layer is then screwed to the FIRST layer (do NOT 'screw and glue'). The purpose for TWO layers of subfloor = the top layer is EASILY removed if something changes/goes wrong (glue causes issues with removal = damage to bottom layer = more problems then it is worth). Right. So now you know you need TWO layers of plywood. You can get two layers in there with a total of 1.5" (3/4" + 3/4") worth of 'thickness'. Now you have the RIGHT deflection rating (super important) and you have added quite a bit of height. Now you assess how much extra height you need. A well installed porcelain tile can sit (roughly) 3/4" high. You can add cement board to make up the little bit of difference. There you have it. Two layers of plywood + cement backer board to make up the difference....See Morebathroom remodel help
Comments (3)You have opened up quite a can of worms with this project! Since the pipes appear to be galvanized iron, I would suggest repiping. That stuff is probably at the end of it's lifespan. Is some of the subfloor nailed in between the joists? I've only seen that once or twice before....See Moremorz8 - Washington Coast
6 years agoB L
6 years agoCreative Tile Eastern CT
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6 years agoUser
6 years agolast modified: 6 years ago
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