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Flooring Bathrooms DIY

Bathroom remodel help

3 years ago

So I am removing tile and after removing the tub realized how much deeper the tub was than the rest of the tile. To make them on even ground I'm thinking I have to the same layer the tub is on and install plywood subfloor and cement board on top of that. The problem is the wood subfloor is 2 and 3/4 inches below the hardwood in the hallway and I didn't want to have to build up that much to make them level. I'm wondering if I can install the plywood and cement board on top of the layer right above the wood subfloor or if I should go all the way down. Any help is much appreciated.

Featured Answer

PRO

HALLETT & Co.

3 years ago

Yes often in 1900’s to 1950’s bathrooms the floor joists were shortened to allow a continuous concrete slab in the bathroom (sometimes over a rubble base). Once you remove all the concrete you would need to ‘sister’ all the joists to make them stronger and bring them flush with the joists in the adjacent areas. Then you install 3/4” plywood subfloor and your Kerdi or cement board.

Comments (7)

Seabornman
3 years ago
You have an old "mud-set" floor (with an abundance of mud!). I think you're going to need to tear it all down to existing subfloor and build it back up. You may even find it beneficial to rip up the subfloor, but you'll have to see. I'd look at ripping some 2xs to shim up the joists. Do verify spacing of existing joists to make sure it'll all be rigid enough for thinset. It's probably ok.
Andrew Jamison thanked Seabornman
Andrew Jamison
Original Author
3 years ago
@Seabornman Thank you! what do you recommend I build up with to get to the level of the hardwood floor in hallway. I was originally going to do plywood with cement board on top and then tile but It will still come up about an inch shy of the hallway.
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am curious about the towel ring location. I have a similar layout, and the "obvious" spot seems to be as AJCN suggested, but ti's so near the outlet that I wonder about that. I guess it's not a concern.? In my instance there is a tad more space on either wall. Color wise I have similar flooring and have been strongly considering SW Sea Salt which is similar to watery. I think those colors are nice, but I think the lighter ones considering the dark vanity would work better. In our guest bath which has white flooring and white tiles/tub, I think I really like the Really Teal and the Lagoon. (but we have no windows there just the vanity lighting).
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Darn it, I fumbled my notepad and it posted my comment unfinished. I think the bases in the bottom photo are larger than your 30” ones, so there is more space from sink edge to tower side than yours will have. Elbows are important to consider when you move to full-depth towers next to sinks. Do your elbows ever go out to the sides when your face is over the sink or close to the mirror? With a 30” sink, you could bump against the tower sides. I am super myopic and have to be up near the glass to apply eye makeup, for instance, so I would need room for elbows. If you and your partner don’t get that close, and don’t splash water outside the sinks, you may find your set-up is practical. Others feel it is too close. Tower side wood can get wet. So be sure to measure how far sinks would be from the sides of the towers and if you like that. Another thing people find a problem with your proposed set-up is where to put the hand towels. Some lay them on the counter between sinks, others have a countertop towel holder or towel bars on the cabinet doors under the sinks. Be sure to figure that out before you decide on design. My guess is that the vanity would be longer if you keep your current closet. You have to decide if that matters to you.
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You have opened up quite a can of worms with this project! Since the pipes appear to be galvanized iron, I would suggest repiping. That stuff is probably at the end of it's lifespan. Is some of the subfloor nailed in between the joists? I've only seen that once or twice before.
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I would deepen the shower where it stands. Use the little bump-out in the tub space by building a 4 ft high wall even with the regular wall and then be able to use that new wall depth to put in a ledge (in lieu of a niche) at the 4 ft height and a toe-rest for shaving indented into the new wall at the proper toe-ret height. To get storage, get a trough sink with two faucets, leave plenty of counter space on either end, and use 2 ft of your enormous vanity to build a linen closet. If you think you need more places to put things down while getting ready, put a ledge just above the faucets. I will go look for a photo to show you what I mean. Holy cow! The iPad app now lets me make links, just like the regular computer app always has. When did that happen?
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Seabornman
3 years ago
Then I'd probably screw down some 1x4s over the existing joists before screwing down plywood. Or 2x4s if taking out the subfloor. You may have some shimming and adjusting to do as existing subfloor didn't need to be level (due to use of mud-set), but yours does. You should plan on a threshold at the door, if there isn't already one. It can take care of any remaining difference in floor elevation.
SJ McCarthy
3 years ago
Your deflection rating will need to be assessed. Deflection ratings are CHANGED (increased) by adding PLYWOOD. Cement backer board is NOT structural. It is always advisable to use TWO layers of subfloor. The first layer is attached to the JOISTS (the slats you see are the first layer and are considered 'useless' with tile so you might as well get rid of them).

The second layer is then screwed to the FIRST layer (do NOT 'screw and glue'). The purpose for TWO layers of subfloor = the top layer is EASILY removed if something changes/goes wrong (glue causes issues with removal = damage to bottom layer = more problems then it is worth).

Right. So now you know you need TWO layers of plywood. You can get two layers in there with a total of 1.5" (3/4" + 3/4") worth of 'thickness'. Now you have the RIGHT deflection rating (super important) and you have added quite a bit of height.

Now you assess how much extra height you need. A well installed porcelain tile can sit (roughly) 3/4" high. You can add cement board to make up the little bit of difference.

There you have it. Two layers of plywood + cement backer board to make up the difference.
Andrew Jamison thanked SJ McCarthy
PRO
HALLETT & Co.
3 years ago
Are the tops of the floor joists flush with the bottom of the subfloor in the hall or were they lowered to allow for the thickness of the mud base?
Andrew Jamison thanked HALLETT & Co.
Andrew Jamison
Original Author
3 years ago
@HALLETT & Co. I'm not sure I haven't removed all of the existing floor to the hallway. will that effect what I should do?

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