Will you go with a 27" deep (front-to-back) hood? And by 30" inch high do you mean that is how high over the range it will be mounted (if so, that's good). Provided you have good ducting (not too long, nor too many bends), the 1266 should be plenty unless you really do plan to run all burners with open pots plus the grill simultaneously and want to be able to vent that. If you are considering going with the 2016 fan, check with fantech about what it pulls at the lowest setting (and also check your local code and MUA issues). Ours isn't the scale of yours, but here's a data point: We have the Abbaka 1400 external blower, with a 36" range and 42" hood. We never need to run it on high and wish it was lower at the lowest setting. We should have gotten the 1000cfm one. At high, it was so powerful it sucked up some of the metal panels surrounding the baffles (Modernaire, our hood maker, replaced them with heavier duty ones). There is so much air flow that the baffle noise is very loud on high and higher than we'd like on low (if you take out the baffles, you hardly hear a thing - because our blower is remote and there is a silencer as well, so nearly 100% of the noise is air-over-baffle noise). Also, if you do go with 2016, get a hood with the largest square footage of baffle area possible. Our hood has spacers which reduce the baffle area, increasing the noise. We plan to take out those spacers and get a custom baffle to expand the area to reduce the noise. (yes, that will reduce the air speed -- but so would getting a lower CFM fan which the hood is rated for).

Adding to the good advice given above, I'd suggest that you search the many hood discussions here and I especially recommend posts by kaseki. You will find that what you are considering is actually counterproductive to your goals. To summarize briefly: First, if you are putting cabinets over that 48" range top, read the installation manual for your rangetop. On most rangetops, cooktops and ranges, the manual will specify that bases of the upper cabinets should be at least 30 inches above the stove top. IIRC, some even specify 36". Going lower is considered a fire hazard. Thus, you really can't gain cabinet space over a 48" range/rangetop by using a smaller hood. Second, the effectiveness of ventilation hoods has as much or more to do with hood "capture area" as blower power. If you want to try to make up for poor capture, you need a huge increase in blower force. Think about using a vacuum cleaner. The stronger the blower, the more noise the system will make as you try to suck everything in -- maybe sucking pets and and small children off the floor :>) --- and a very loud roar. Same thing if you put a powerful vent fan in the ceiling. That kind of power utterly defeats your desire for a quiet hood. Third, a huge step-up in blower power means a huge step up in the need for make-up air, and that can and likely will be a major expense. Doesn't matter if your locality does not have codes that require MUA. We're talking the laws of physics here and avoiding backdrafting HVAC, water heaters, fireplaces, etc. Fourth, while a properly sized and designed hood may be larger than you seem to like, it also can be a lot quieter. Consider that there are two sources of noise in hoods: (a) the noise of the fans and their motors and (b) the air rushing through the baffles/filters and into the ducts. With a properly sized hood, the fans can run lower and slower because the hood enables the capture. Slower fans are quieter.

"Skinsloe I was recently in a Wolf showroom and asked about the chipping issue. They said it was a problem several years ago when the interior was outsourced which is no longer the case." That has been their mantra for many years and yet this issue has been reported on this forum with the new M series oven that was designed to deal with this issue. If you buy the Wolf, get the longest extended warranty you can and make sure there are no exclusions on the enamel. Check it periodically wiping the bottom with a damp white paper towel looking for chipping. Most ranges chip later than the wall ovens so can be out if the two year warranty and more over the heating element. Never use the self clean. I have used the Wolf dual stacked burners for years and never have had any issues with the lower ports getting clogged even with spills but it could happen. "Julie B I do a lot of baking, and the BS is a pure gas oven, so has a moister heat which isn't ideal for baked goods." I know this is conventional wisdom but it is a little more complicated than that. The gas flame of an oven does release water as a byproduct of combustion, but because the combustion requires more ventilation, this moisture along with moisture from what you are baking/roasting vents out. This is superficially drying to what you are cooking so promotes the Maillard reaction so faster browning which is better for roasting and even some baking. Electric ovens although the heat source is dry, hold onto the moisture from what you are baking so can promote starch gelatinization which is important for the first part of baking with things that need to rise. Some bread bakers use a cloche in a gas oven during the first part of baking to keep humidity around the bread. You might want more browning on some items you bake after the rise is complete. I read that one baker opens the oven (electric) briefly to let steam out and then turns the convection fan on to add more drying and browning. I do this for cakes and muffins. Most cookies would bake well in a gas oven or electric with convection because there is less concern about starch gelatinization. It would be the same with pies with these two ovens. I actually like an electric oven with an open element on the bottom for pies because it browns the bottom of the pie better, especially with a clear PYREX pie dish. Most higher end ovens have the hidden bottom element. I have a recipe for an upside down apple pie that I made for years but doesn't work on my newer ovens because of the hidden elements. A couple brands have the element under glass but have other issues, for me, that would rule them out. Some electric ovens have a very tight temperature range but I haven't noticed it making that much difference from other ovens, gas or electric that I have had over the years. The bigger difference in some electric ovens is the ability to use modes with heat coming from the top, bottom or back, variable fan speeds and the number, direction and position of fans like the fan towers in in the Wolf M. It can be hard to get all of this right though and you are relying on a computer board to coordinate all of it. You can bake with either but it might require some adjustments in your recipes. Overall I prefer electric but others with gas like it.

This is a city apartment so most heat is provided through steam radiators heated by a huge multi-million BTU industrial boiler in the basement with no furnace in the apartment itself. The apartment has a central air conditioning system with 3 zones and a 2.5 ton air handler for each zone. The other two zones are a/c only, but the kitchen's zone will have an electric heating coil. A 2.5 ton air handler has 30,000 BTU capacity, which according to your chart, is enough to heat 30 degrees at 1200 CFM. The MUA is drawn from a distant exterior vent over 50 feet away from the kitchen zone's air handler through the return air ducting, so the MUA will mix with the rest of the apartment's already heated (or cooled) return air as it moves from the exterior through the apartment to the kitchen zone's air handler. As a result, the outdoor air will be tempered with a lot of 65-75 degree air before it ever hits the handler to be conditioned. As it was described to me, even if the outdoor temperature is 20 or 30, by the time it gets to the handler, we won't ever need to heat more than the 30,000 BTU air handler's capacity.