I disagree with Auteck's recommendation, and I'm a little surprised he recommended what he did. Your original grass seed mix selection was tall fescue, fine fescues and KBG. I suspect you have mostly tall fescue growing since you have bare spots. If the KBG in your original grass mix had germinated fully, then it should fill in bare areas in the sunnier parts of your lawn. I agree with him in that perennial rye is usually what is grown in your area, but there was no perennial rye in that original mix. Overseeding your lawn with it now will give you some throughout the whole lawn, but the bare spots will be all PR, and they will stand out against the TF you have now. My advice, use either all TF to overseed, or a mix that has similar percentages to your original mix. I would also stick with Pennington's as it is usually the best mix in the big box stores.

MDob - I'm in a similar situation as yours in the 1.5 acres of lawn...but I only have 1 acre of "extra". My 1.5 acres of lawn is pretty much all grass (thanks to WeedBGone Max), but an unknown mixture of various grasses depending on where you are in the yard. The original owner who built our now 5 yr old house obviously went the cheapest route he could go to have 1.5 acres of "green". I also have my yearly battle with European Chafer beetles which is a costly battle. One question not asked here is what is your soil composition? Sandy? Clay? I ask because ours is so sandy that I can't keep the 1.5 acres properly watered...don't have a sprinkler system. There is NO WAY I could start my whole lawn from scratch and keep a newly seeded lawn from dying. Just too big. I guess what I'm saying is that "might" it be better if you WeedBeGone Max the lawn now, then slit seed it after the appropriate wait time? It's a chemical yes but you can't have your cake and eat it to can you? What do the experts here say? Between Mo Nature and me I think I could keep enough moisture on the seed to get it established before winter. Or maybe just do 3/4 acre now then 3/4 next fall. I'm confused and I hope I haven't confused you more!!!

1. Having my neighborhood go up in flames 2. Having my neighborhood washed away in a flood 3. Having my neighborhood be swallowed up in the next quake, #1 No fires if you stay away from the hill's where there are lots of old dead tree's #2 Floods - Just stay away from those few areas #3 Will yea Earth Quakes are defiantly scary! Can't do much about that. I would recommend a one story ground level house. As you can see I have a two story Cape Cod style home. I'm always worried we will get shook off our foundation. Earthquake insurance it is too expensive with huge deductibles! Everything does grow good here though. Weather is nice most the year. LetÂs see sod laying tips. When I lay sod I straighten the sod edges and corners as I go and make sure no grass gets stuck between the sod edges. This will avoid dead grass and brown and yellow stripes between the sod pieces that can make fungus and just makes for a bad start. I spray the ground with water and put down a little fertilizer as I lay the sod. I always use my square so I get nice square edges when I cut sod. Sometimes I donÂt even till the ground. Sod will live on the patio if you water it. I do it all the time. DonÂt over water your new lawn. Get out there and lift up the sod and see how wet it is. If you over water your new lawn you will get chlorosis and fungus like I have now from too much rain. If I need to replace a small spot I use a plate or bucket for a stencil and cut out the bad piece. Then I use the plate or bucket to cut a new piece of sod from extra sod that I keep on the patio or garden. If you are going to put in French drains or remove and replace tree's itÂs better to do it first. I did it all backwards. I have a spot were an old tree and its roots were removed and it keeps sinking along with the trenches were I put the drains. If you put drains. It is good to attach your rain gutter down spouts to them. Also if you dig your ditch for your sprinklers try to keep the top soil separate from any clay soil that may be down lower and put the soil back in the whole the same way you took it out. The grass grows better on the top soil than the clay. ThatÂs about all I can think of for now other than I like Blue Grass because it self fills. But. If you have shade you will need to over seed now and then were it thins out. I left a link below to other garden pics. I like to grow fruit trees as well. I get all my info for the roses and fruit tree's here on GardenWeb. Take care Dave Here is a link that might be useful: Garden Pics

I actually never thought of that, very good advice(s) indeed. I shall try Landscape rake, and/or tractor box blade. I would say it does look like a wood chipper was used but alot of the debris from whatever "said" machine they used came out looking like 1 - 2 feet long shreds, imagine wood version of pulled pork (food). but LARGE sizes and so dry and dense. It doesn't break effortlessly, it still has pretty much the strength of framing wood or fresh pine although it's been over a year. Come to think of it, this past year until JUST recently, we had a very unusual dry spell here in the south on Louisiana, it was just this past month we started getting bad storms. So as far as decomposition goes, I don't think our lot or even this area had all the elements to start properly. Of course I don't need to 100% clear the lot (spotless) as i understand it helps with the biology of the soil. It is just that their is SO MUCH of this chippings, you can't even feel or see soil underneath so a good layer of it needs to come up or at least aerate it so the soil can be exposed to the rain and sunlight for proper seeding.