Collecting about every Japanese morning glory I can get my paws on. Kelli introduced me to this plant and I can't get enough. They are incredibly showy and easy to grow. There is also a chance that the seeds you're getting have been crossed, which can result in some really fun surprises. Always beautiful, I have never been disappointed with an unexpected outcome. Also love zinnias, marigolds, sunflowers, cosmos, basils, coleus, and nasturtium (thought I didn't do so well growing that last one!).

Perhaps Siberian iris or one of the native species such as Iris Virginia.

We're in full swing over here now! Am I the only one?

Yeah the snow left a surprisingly moist soil. Yankees are probably laughing at that statement. Whatever you do, don't walk on the grass if you leave foot prints in the mushy mud. If you currently have footprint holes, leave them alone for now. If you have to walk over the lawn, put down some boards or something to keep from sinking in. Getting back to the original post, bluebonnet seeds are planted in August, not the spring. The seeds germinate in September or whenever we get the heavy fall rains. The plant sprouts and immediately goes dormant over the winter. Then with warm moist spring, the bluebonnet plant bolts and creates the flower. Clover will dig deep roots, but so will the bermuda once it becomes established. Besides then you will have the clover competing with bermuda and that ends poorly for the bermuda. You can get rid of clover, but why bother with it at all? Let's address the hard soil under the topsoil. Soon enough your soil will be firm enough to walk on without sinking in. When that happens, spray your entire yard with shampoo. Any clear shampoo will work. I use Baby Shampoo, but the stuff from Dollar Tree works as well and smells better. Spray at a rate of 3 ounces per 1,000 square feet. For example if your front yard is 2,000 square feet, put 6 ounces of shampoo into a hose end sprayer, fill the bottle to the top, stir the shampoo around, and spray at any setting until the bottle is empty trying to get it sort of even. If you get more or less in spots, it's not at all critical. If you want to repeat the process you can at any time. There's no way to overdo the shampoo treatment. Follow that up with 1/2 to 1 inch of water as measured by several tuna or cat food cans placed around the yard. Water until the cans are full. The water will carry the shampoo down where it will penetrate the hard soil and begin the softening process. The bermuda roots and the microbes living in the soil will take it from there. Within 3 weeks you should notice the soil becoming softer when you dig. Over time you will really notice it. My wife was skeptical about this working, but now she carries her own bottle of shampoo into the garden. By the end of this month you will likely be laughing about trying to augment the bermuda. You can fertilize bermuda after the second time you mow it. Why wait? Because you want the roots to be actively working to grow new grass. After that you can fertilize just about as often as you like. It will respond nicely to fertilizer every month or 6 weeks. The fertilizer should be a high N value and zero P and K, so 9-0-0 or higher up to 42-0-0. Mulch mow it toward the low side on your mower. Water deeply and infrequently. Deep means 1 inch all at one time. Infrequently means once a month until it warms up. Then gradually increase the frequency until you're mowing once a week during the hottest heat of summer. Always water a full inch. Time how long it takes your sprinkler system to fill the cat food/tuna cans and use that time as your guide. My oscillator sprinkler takes 8 hours while a neighbor's high flow in-ground system takes 20 minutes. Everyone has to measure this for themselves. If it rains, wait until the grass tells you to water again then resume on the schedule. I'm in Bandera now and did not water my lawn last summer until July. The rains were just perfectly timed to stretch out the time without me having to water.