Amiee Vascular disease advice
8 years ago
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- 8 years agolast modified: 8 years ago
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what type of apples and disease?
Comments (15)Tom: Are you sure the neighbor's tree is not infested? Have you actually looked closely at his fruit? Maybe the neighbor sprays or picks up his fruit drops so there are not so many flies hatching out under his tree. There can be some variety differences, but when two trees so close together differ so much in the level of insect damage, there is usually something else in play. The spray you use is very much your own decision, based on what you can find and what is most effective in your area. Local advice would be better than mine. I use Imidan early for two or three sprays to get the apples up to thinning and bagging size, but Permethrin would be an acceptable and very effective substitute in most cases. But since I bag my apples, I am able to stop spraying very early in the season. If you don't do that, you will have to find something you are comfortable using all season long on about a 10 day schedule. Apple maggot is a later infestation than the plum curculio and codling moth I deal with by early sprays, and if you bagged your apples after thinning you might not have to spray at all, since you don't seem to have a problem with the other insects. Don Yellman, Great Falls, VA...See MoreNeed ID of spreading tomato disease and advice on what to do next
Comments (7)[Thanks, Dave, The OP was eaten in cyberspace. It had all the extra details and i spent a considerable amount of time on it. I was so angry when I had to retype it all I forgot to include some of them in this version. The "more info" post was just supposed to be a followup comment to the OP that doesn't exist apparently.] Anyway... 1- The beds have a good 12" + of Viagro organic potting mix, composted cow manure and partial bale of peat moss. They are on top of a very nutritious garden bed that has been in use a few years. We have lovely top soil that I have been amending for a long time, but was tired of dealing with weeds from neighbor's yard creeping in and so we added the raised beds this spring to look nice and help delineate the beds from weedwhacker approved areas for my DH. Transpalnts had additional Plantone and bone meal down in their holes. Have also been using fish emulsion. This is what I usually do. Our soil is very fertile, rich, and loose - dug down over 12" in the existing garden, so I did not feel the need to rush and fill the boxes to the top on the first go. I want my plants to get the nutrients from the soil beneath, plus potting mix adds up when you are renovating the whole garden with new beds. (I gave them a boost of the mychorrizal fungi (Thrive) just over a week ago, to try and pump a little more beneficial life into the mix.) Cedar mulch was added very recently, maybe two weeks ago. After problems were developing but before I pulled anything. I usually use cypress mulch and had never experienced a problem like this in ten years of gardening here. No tomatoes in this area of garden since 2008. I usually mulch once temps are staying in the 90s week to week, which they were. There is no mulch in the beds that have peppers, btw, as I had some summer greens with them. They were first to have any leaves drop, but as I said, they appeared as sunscald and I didn't think twice about it. SO at any rate, I don't think I did any bad gardening except I had never heard not to use wood mulch around my plants, so I have been doing that for 10 years! I used the cedar for first time this year, but other than that all has been pretty usual for me. I can pull that away but I don't think these tomatoes are going to make it. I don't mean to say I do everything perfect, but just have never run into all this. I did put a lot of thought into my garden planning renovation, so I would like to salvage what I can, and know what to go ahead and cull. I am pretty sure upon the existing tomatoes are going to have to go. I went back out and cut heavier stems that are showing internal symptoms in tissue. I hate to get rid of them, but don't really want a garden hospital all summer either. That's pretty depressing. Ugh....See MoreTucson Xeriscape has a weird disease
Comments (12)Thank you so much for your replies. The top set of photos in the link Raimeiken helpfully provided don't look at all like this infestation. I've had what I assumed were mealybugs on house plants and had my outdoor thing looked like those photos, I might have recognized it as such. BUT, the middle photo on the bottom set of six pictures does look like what's outside. Perfectly round — no tendrils indicating the white mess was spreading. Just individual round balls of pure whiteness. So maybe that's the newly laid eggs? I never noticed any other substance that followed the white balls, just more and more white balls that didn't go away until there was a chill in the air. When things started coming back this spring, the plants seem to show no ill-effects from last year's infestation. In any case, I will try one of the homemade sprays suggested in the second article the photos link to. Heaven knows we have easy enough access to hot peppers in Arizona! I'll try to pulverize them with the garlic and other ingredients specified in that article in my Nutribullet. And I'll give the two infested plants a good spray. Right now I only see this thing on two plants in the yard, whereas last year it appeared on many in the front and back yards. So some remediation will be easy at this time. Thanks again for your help....See MoreNeed advice re Scarlet Oak tree
Comments (28)UPDATE April 16: OK, it is now 6 weeks after my first post. 6 arborists from 4 firms later (most of who did not charge for visits or opinions), the fungus has been identified (by UC Berkeley, UC Davis, and the State of CA forestry dept, - and all of the arborists agreed) as inonotus andersonii, common name "canker rot". Accd to what the arborists told me, and what I found on line, rots & kills oak trees, and can cause failure of main limbs AND TRUNKS. Drattt! We did hire an arborist who only assesses risk - does not do tree work. He used a ressistograph to drill into the main trunk 2 feet below the wound. Found bark and sound wood the first 5 or so inches, and then hollow or rot the next 6 inches (which was as long as his fancy drill). He did a report for us and recommended that the tree be taken out. He said that, because of the area of rot, and the closeness of our next door neighbor's house, he thought if the main trunk failed the 80' tree would fall in the direction of their house,and land on and squash our neighbor's one story house. Double Drattt! So, we are getting another bid to take out the tree. I am so unhappy - we really wanted to save that tree. We even had 2 specialist technicians from a nationwide firm who do some sort of sonic investigation of trees, and can produce pictures of cross sections of the trunk using sound, come and look at it. I asked them to give me a quote to do their fancy sonic investigation at the base of the tree (where they normally do it), and also above and below the wound. After I sent them the risk assessment arborist's report which identified the fungus, they told me it was not worth the large cost of doing their investigation, as that fungus is very very bad, and the tree was a gonner. So, I only have one question for anyone on here who knows about this fungus (trying to make myself feel better) - is it as bad as they say in oak trees? Thanks for all of your assistance again - this has been a real education which I would rather not have! The only good news is that we have ANOTHER scarlet oak in the back of our property, which is sort of leaning over our fence and going above another neighbor's garage. The risk assessment arborist said it is not diseased, but recommended we take out two major limbs which are going sideways, to better distribute its weight. We are getting a big to do that too. Jackie...See More- 8 years ago
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