Cooktop options, 20inch clearance.
Evelyn2108 Evelyn2108
6 years ago
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Evelyn2108 Evelyn2108
6 years agoRelated Discussions
How many inches of clearance under your GE induction?
Comments (4)If you look over the three installation options (cooktop alone, cooktop with downdraft, cooktop with wall oven below) the third option gives the least space to the cooktop. It even allows the removal of the "baffle". Why? Presumably because the oven won't catch fire from a malfunctioning cooktop the way a drawer 11 3/4 inches down (I'm being sarcastic) full of sales receipts or recipes clipped from newspapers would. So why not build in the equivalent of the oven top? Shouldn't everyone be happy with that? And why doesn't GE provide such an option or guidance on what is required? Here is a link that might be useful: Installation...See MoreMisleading clearance specs below Bosch induction cooktop
Comments (35)I know that this is an old thread. I'm currently about to install a Fulgor 30" induction cooktop. My cooktop also has a shield (mine is non movable) running the full width of the unit, but they call it a baffle, I believe for a good reason. A baffle effectively blocks or reduces the ability for hot air expulsed from the bottom rear of the metal box (see photo) from traveling directly into the intake located at the bottom front. I have seen this same solution used in sleeve type air conditioners which suck fresh air in from the left hand rear of the unit and exhaust it from the right hand rear. Calling that metal plate a shield is misleading unless its intent is to prevent a cabinet shelf or drawer from being vertically too close to the bottom of the metal box. I doubt that this is the case as a full cabinet ceiling high enough to touch the bottom of the baffle plate would effectively divide the air space below the metal box into two sealed separate cavities with little possibility for warm air exiting the back side of the unit to find an easy path back into the intake on the front side of the unit. If the cabinet has all its drawers and/or doors closed, then the only way for the hot air generated by the cooktop to cool down before being re-introduced back into the unit is for the air to transfer its heat to the adjacent cabinet walls which can conduct the heat to the connected structures. So surface area of the walls of the under cooktop air cavity is the key to keeping the electronics cool. And that can't happen if the cavity directly below the cooktop is too limited in surface area which would touch a structural mass (cabinet walls, cabinet floors) which can wick the heat away. Drawers full of cutlery provide no means for heat to be continually absorbed. My installation guide calls for an under cooktop clearance of 2-1/4" (1-1/4" in Canada) and the baffle plate height is only 1" high, so that leaves a minimum clearance between the nearest horizontal surface of 1-1/4" (1/4" in Canada) below the bottom edge of the baffle plate. A 1" high baffle plate insures that air which travels from the bottom rear of the metal box to the bottom front must come in contact with a cooler surface where some of the heat can be conducted away. At first I thought that minimum under unit clearance had something to do with not wanting a metal box containing electricity to come within a minimum distance of a combustible cabinet material like hardwood or melamine. But the technician from the company assured me that the minimum distance has nothing to do with any fire code but is all about insuring proper opportunity for the warm air generated by electronics to adequately cool down. My cabinet which comes from Germany (see photo) has a 13-1/2" by 30" opening in the cabinet ceiling. With my cooktop being placed on a countertop 3" above this partially open ceiling, my metal box arrives an one eighth of an inch above the part of the cabinet ceiling which is not open. I will have to cut into some of this partial ceiling so that the two metal box vent holes are not blocked. After doing the cutouts, these two vent holes in the metal box will be able circulate air located in the 4 cubic foot volume existing above the top shelf of my 2 shelf cabinet....See MoreKitchen Island Clearance Dimensions-Continued
Comments (52)@Angela, Yes. If I am correct, you like plan 13H3 better. And you also prefer a microwave over the oven. At this point, I am considering two layouts 13H3 and 18A. Still need to debate the pros and cons of each to see if I can settle on a ‘final’ design. @Lavender Lass, My latest plans (ver17 and ver18) are based on your T-shaped island concept, which has the long side of the island parallel to the right side wall. I am looking at it (18A) along with a previous plan of 13H3. Thank you for your latest two drawings. They are similar to ver13H3 to some degree. I see the main differences being the swapped sink/cooktop, HVAC/pantry locations and larger kitchen window. I would explain my thoughts on them below. @Mrs Pete, Thank you for your continued input. I really appreciate that. You are absolutely right that I am not settled on the kitchen layout yet. There are things that I don’t like or am simply unsure about. On the other hand, I think I am making good progress (from the original two island version) and really hope that either plan might just work OK. Re: HVAC and Cooktop Placement When I met with the architect, he said he preferred to have the HVAC closet in a more centralized location of the house for easier ducting work. I may ask the architect again about this issue but right now I am inclined to leave the HVAC and pantry as they are currently in the plans (pantry close to wall). Similarly, the cooktop close to the top wall may still be doable but that would make the exhaust vent of the range hood more difficult as there is second floor above it (vs cooktop close to side wall ). I am keeping the cooktop / sink locations for now. I would follow up one more time with the architect. Re: Kitchen Windows It is a corner lot with front and west facing streets in the subdivision. The side wall is facing west and we are building in Texas. I don’t think there is any good view to the outside and I have some great concern about summer heat. Therefore, the windows are mainly for natural lighting. The architect proposed to place some small windows over the high cabinets. I really don’t know how that would work and my drawings (with the size and location of the windows) are mainly my best guess. Re: Start over or KD While I am open to the suggestions of starting it over or giving it to a KD, I am not taking that route for reasons including 1) I still like to work with the architect on the overall house design to make it work after I have received some criticisms about the exteriors/roofs and cost. So I am trying to let the floor plan (including kitchen layout) to help the architect a little bit if possible for a functional, pleasing, and cost effective build. 2) The kitchen is one of the most critical parts of the house design but it is still one part of the whole house. If the only thing unresolved is kitchen layout and a KD might be good for me. But I don’t think I am there yet. For some reason, I feel comfortable with floor plans/kitchen layouts reading thanks to many ppl on the GW forums ond my own struggles with the issues for over 5 months. If I decide on a final plan, I think it would not be too bad functionally. Next, I would like to come up with one candidate kitchen plan and integrate it to the whole house floor plans and present it to the architect with my concerns about exteriors and budget. Thanks! JF...See Morehow to solve OTR door clearance against a wall.
Comments (29)I believe this is the current version of the range in question, now with continuous grates: This is cut and paste from the installation manual. This is accompanied by a diagram which indicates that the 2"is not from the side of the oven body below cooktop height it is from the upper corner of the cooktop (or countertop height) to a wall or cabinet which extends higher than the cooktop or countertop. If that slot he made is 2" deep and 24" up, he may be meeting the appliance specifications which are what international residential code requires. Local codes may be more stringent. (However I think the lip of wall sticking up a bit past the top of the stove violates this 2" rule) If the wall were covered with Durock rather than Drywall that would be an acceptable non combustible covering according to the specs for placing this behind wood burning stoves. Then the Durock could be covered with stainless or tiled. L. 2" (5.1 cm) min. clearance from both sides of range to side wall or other combustible material....See MoreUser
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