Mine would have had room for a vertical outlet box, but it didn't have room to run it horizontally. We elected to move it into the side walls we built for the overhang, because I wanted it horizontal.

You have to build in the counter support as well, which is harder with frameless. And a dozen other clearance and construction details. You need an experienced KD who understands the gazillion options of custom.

Sophie Wheeler, there is no overhang, other than the normal 1 - 1.5" lip. This is not an island with seating. The fabricator will be installing the quartz top. I don't need a KD. for this. I am simply asking for a picture of the inside of a frameless drawer stack.

My frameless island drawers would not have room for a normal size outlet box. There is virtually no side clearance, maybe 1/8" on each side. There is about 1" clear behind the back of the drawer. There is a conventional cabinet behind the drawers so we were able to locate the electrical there. Your best bet may be to specify a shorter front-to-back drawer (18" drawer in a 24" cabinet).

DIY2Much2Do, thank you very much for the info. Yes I had actually thought about a shorter top drawer on one side - not sure if Barker does that or not, guess I will ask them for specifics on this.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/1-Gang-8-cu-in-Flanged-Shallow-Old-Work-Box-B108R-UPC/100404058

I see that at least one person has used that^^ to solve this issue. I will contact Barker to see how much room there is.

Our kitchen cabinet shop added end panels with 3" of space on the end of each island for electrical. I was unhappy about taking away aisle space, but the result was a more finished cabinet aesthetic.

We used plugmold outlets on the ends of our islands and love them.

Example of drawer in frameless cabinets - not much space along sides.

Thanks Cheryl Hewitt. Yup. I know it's tight. My only option, if there is no existing room, is to reduce the length of a drawer, or make the cabinet smaller, and add a filler space, which I really don't want to do. I'd rather not use a strip if I can avoid it. We'll see what Barker says in response to my email about this. I am hoping that a shallow 1-gang will fit, at the back. This is similar to the one I have in my peninsula.

We don't have frameless, so I'm not sure how much it helps, but we had to get a shallow box on the back of the peninsula instead of on the side.

townlakecakes, thanks. Yes if I were getting framed cabs, it wouldn't be an issue at all really. FWIW, my peninsula has the outlet on the side, beside the drawer. It's a shallow box, no interference with the drawer at all.

If you're using Barker cabinets, and if you have the space, you could get 25" deep boxes. Blum drawer slides come in 3" increments. Barker will use the same size drawer for 23", 24" or 25" boxes, and you'd have extra room behind the standard drawer.

suzanne_sl, I don't have the space. The quartz top is already cut, so I am committed to the size of the island, and I do not want lose an entire 4" of storage just for an outlet. If it came to that, then I would put the outlet on the toe kick.

This looks cool. I would be fine with having this on the back of the island as well, if there were room.

http://www.ylighting.com/legrand-adorne-pop-out-1-gang-outlet.html?CJAID=10537295&CJPID=2178999&CJSID=2697403064

DIY2Much2Do, thanks for the info! Unfortunately I cannot change the size of the cabinet boxes other than to make them smaller. So the drawer box is 21", and the next smallest size is 18", which would give me the room I need. Hopefully they can do that.

Chess, pretty sure you can't put an outlet in the toekick, just won't pass code anywhere. Sounds like a shorter drawer in your cabinet is the answer. That blue box you posted looks like a winner for the back of the drawer box.

Suzanne's right about it being against code to install a required countertop receptacle in the toekick. In fact, it has to be no less than 12" below the countertop. You can always notch the drawer boxes (instead of completely shortening them) like so:

Yeah I knew a toe kick outlet was not allowed, I was just being a little funny LOL.

Wow had not seen a notched drawer like that before. I don't see anything on the Barker site about that, but it may be that I just have to purchase a separate special drawer for this. That's a cool idea. Sammy, thank you.

First: You're welcome. :)

Second: I assume Barker can accommodate your need for oddly sized/shaped drawer boxes since, according to its website, its cabinets are custom-made.

Well custom, but RTA. So I'm not sure how much they deviate from their pre-established standards.

Below the first drawer and above the top of the middle drawer, unless you're using tall drawer sides, then it gets more creative.

Taylor's Cabinets & Interiors, I am using whatever Barker provides. I'm not specifying anything "tall" as far as the sides. Agree though - it does seem like there would be room between the drawers. But not according to this image:

https://cdn3.volusion.com/xdtpe.rpcpz/v/vspfiles/photos/B4DR-4.jpg?1409051976

You may be able to use a Sillite. Others on the forum have used it on their islands in the past.

photos.php

If the drawers are tall sided like the picture, can you cut the drawer sides down a 1" or 2" and squeeze it in.

OR

You'll be able to squeeze it in the back of the cabinet. If you are using a 24" deep cabinet, then they are using a 21" drawer, leaving 2" of space in the back, plenty of space to squeeze the shallow box in.

Taylor's Cabinets & Interiors, I think you are right. I took the drawer out of my peninsula and measured that shallow box, there would be plenty of room behind the 21" drawer.

Depth of the electrical box will be what matters, but you should be fine

Unfortunately, the boxes shown on this thread do not appear to be deep enough to meet code requirements. The inside of the box must be marked with 11.25 cubic inches or more if only one 12/2 cable enters the box, and 15.75 cu. inches if two cables enter the box. They make several different boxes. I use different boxes depending on the cabinet and where someone wants the receptacle. The blue box is wider, (about 2.25") so it can be shallower the metal box is narrower, (about 1.75"+) so it will need to be deeper. It is generally possible to find a place to put a receptacle without cutting a drawer, but you really can not tell where that will be without the cabinet there, and a list of actual box sizes that you can find online. Worse case would probably be a horizontal receptacle between the top and second drawer, toward the back or on the back of the cabinet where about ½" may need to be cut out of the top of the back or side wall of the drawer box. No overhangs gives you more options.

Any custom line ought to be able to do a "chase cutout" for the drawer, so as to allow more room at the side for the box. I do it all the time. You just have to indicate the exact dimensions of the drawer box cutout that you want. If fully custom, I also usually do an integrated decorative end on the cabinet that has a slab drawer, and regular door below. The outlet fits on the slab drawer perfectly. If semi custom, then I flush the cabinet side, and do an applied door and slab drawer. In a line where you are using a 5 pc drawer, you may have to order from another door style for the drawer blank. But it is not a big deal if thought out well in advance and you know what the line can and cannot do, and how to work around it,

Fred S, I believe that is incorrect. In the pics of the box that is inside my cabinet, the box is at a cabinet end. There is a fairly thick end panel there that does not permit you to see the full width of the box. And that is exactly how my island would be as well.

The box would need to be 2.5" deep in that style. The side of your cabinet would need to be 1.75" thick. Most are .75" thick sides max.

NEC 314.16

http://www.ecmweb.com/code-basics/box-fill-calculations

IRC E3905.12.2

https://codes.iccsafe.org/public/document/code/553/9875212

Thanks. I didn't even know about the volume on boxes - interesting, and certainly good to know. The end panels are 3/4" thick, which are in addition to the 3/4" plywood case width so that is 1.5" width on the ends. Honestly the depth of the box won't be the issue since it will be at the back corner, and the outlet will be vertical. As long as I have 3 inches behind the drawer, I think I am good. If not, then we'll have to see if there is room between the drawers, or consider a notched drawer.

Y'all are making it too hard.

http://www.dockingdrawer.com/

https://www.kitchenpowerpopups.com/collections/all?gclid=Cj0KCQjwgb3OBRDNARIsAOyZbxAOnZdw5FkhU0kOgOe8UJ87YjkuNPEDoQZSnIko9r_F0u62z8T4jvsaAjwuEALw_wcB

You are making it too hard on me. ;-)

If those fit what the OP was after, AND actually met codes, I would have mentioned them earlier.

The required receptacles can not be inside the cabinets. In addition, your first link is for a product that is only listed for use in portable furniture, by a testing laboratory that is not recognized by OSHA to test under that standard. The product also violates several NEC requirements.

Your second link is full of "relocatable power taps" that will not meet NEC requirements for permanent wiring methods. Even the similar looking popups that are hard wired will not meet NEC requirements for kitchens since the wiring and overcurrent protection on the unit is too small to meet the minimum 20 amp circuit requirements.

The only one I saw in your picks that says it is UL recognized to meet the requirements of both

NEC 210.52(C) AND 406.5(E)

for the required kitchen receptacles is the PUFP from Lew Electric. Even though the installation method they show in their installation instructions blatantly shows code violations, it can be done correctly. But, even that would require a substantial chunk of drawer removed as pictured above.

A notched drawer is a simple solution that always works. And since it is a widely available alteration from the factory from even mid level semi custom cabinet companies, I'm pretty sure that it is quite doable here. If not, a field alteration of a drawer is not at all difficult for the right cabinet installer. We did it on this project because the new cooktop's gas regulator was in a different spot than the old one.

Yeah those links above are not what I am after. Not looking for a drawer I have to open, for sure. The notched drawer will work fine.