Hi, sorry to hear about your floors. The same happened to my floors about a month ago. Fortunately, we were home and able to get the water up quickly. Unfortunately, we had just had our floors refinished that same month! Ours cupped too. Did your homeowners offer Servicemaster or a similar company to help dry the floors? They bring in dehumidifiers and big fans to help dry them out out. We are not having ours ripped out even though the insurance adjuster believed they should have been. We are using the same floor company that initially did the floors and he believe he can save them. The meter used to check for moisture registered below 7 and is considered good from what we understand. Our floors had only been sanded and refinished once in most of the house. That will make a difference. Do you know if yours had been refinished several times? The floor company's main concern was having to sand so much to "uncup" the floors. Fearing they would be left thin. They may be able to only replace a few boards finger laying them and then refinishing them to match up. It may take a little time for them to dry out before your adjuster can make a assessment. It is a huge inconvenience for sure. They are starting our work on the 2nd. Good luck to you. It will eventually work out. Oh, BTW, if we wanted to leave the house during the process our homeowners would have put us up at a hotel.

It was a tube busting from the dishwasher that caused the initial damage. All the tubing was fixed. No water coming from the dishwasher now. It has been one year since we refinished it last. Hopefully one more year has given it adequate time to dry. I was frustrated by the amount that had to be refinished. We have an open floor plan and the only possible place to cut it off was the front part of ths house. Guess we'll go ahead with round 2.

Thanks so much for the information, Woodfloorpro. The floor is completely dry and the buckling was not too severe. I am glad to hear that the color will eventually match. Thanks for the info about the rosin paper. I incorrectly stated that I used rosin paper, when I meant to say kraft paper. I did my research ahead of time and thanks to the knowledgeable people here on GW, I used the kraft paper to avoid the color leaching. Well, that's funny, after I wrote the above, I looked up the old post (linked below) where it was recommended to use kraft paper and it was written by you, Woodfloorpro. So, thank you! Here is a link that might be useful: How to protect wood floors during construction

Hide glue is a type of wood glue. It's probably what was originally used. The advantage to using it for this repair is that it will "reamalgamate" with itself and become one glue. You can also get liquid hide glue in a bottle that has a gel suppressant in it, usually urea, to make it liquid at room temperature. You might lightly dampen the raised veneer and give it a few minutes to soak in to make it more flexible. Take some wood blocks. I coat them with packing tape or Vaseline to keep the glue squeezeout from adhering to it. Add the glue to the crack and work in with a slim knife, palette knife, razor blade, etc. Clamp the veneer down with your wood caul on the top and let set up overnight. Hide glue squeeze out will wash off with warm water. You will have to do something with the missing piece. There are lots of options there from splicing in new veneer, to burn-in repair, to wax filler sticks, to epoxy putty to wood putty, depending upon your skill level and aesthetic requirements. Under no circumstances should you "sand off the old finish." Once your repair is done, use a chemical stripper. Then lightly sand only enough to smooth the surface. 220 grit would be the coarsest I would go on a veneer like this.