No leaf change here. Some of my year old leave are dropping. I have sprayed for insects and mites an am preparing my trees for indoors.

Steve

Some, not all, of my trees are dropping a few of teir old leaves, which is normal this time of year.

I do not not know about organocide.

It would be helpful if you posted a photo.

Ok well here are photos. All but one leaf shows yellowing starting from the tip. Is this really normal or is something else causing this?

I don't know for sure, but that does not look like the loss of old leaves. Some of my trees are shedding older leaves like everyone said, but the leaves turn yellow at the vein from the stem and drop off. Could you be using too high a concentration? Also, could one of you post a link to that product? Thanks!

I agree with Laura. They do not look like old leaves.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008SV2D9O/ref=asc_df_B008SV2D9O5177188/?tag=hyprod-20&creative=394997&creativeASIN=B008SV2D9O&linkCode=df0&hvadid=167152392179&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=5717088638773726238&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9003570&hvtargid=pla-307780397653

I didn't know this organicide could cause harm on plants as it claims it is harmless to it. I don't think I use a high dose either. So what is the best thing to do now? Wipe off all the leaves that have residual liquid on it? Or are my citruses going to die

Your leaves are not flat either telling me you could either be over fertilizing it cause them to tighten up and causing root burn or under or over watering...

My Yuzu has always been curled like that since the winter. My satsuma mandarin is flat though. I don't think it's over fertilizing because I only do it once a week approximately 1 teaspoon per gallon of water. And plus the 5-1-1 mix makes the water drain out so fast I don't know if any of the fertilizer even gets left in the soil. I only water it once a week and by that time the soil is dry. I stick my finger in to check too before watering. So is it too late to do anything? Are my trees doomed?

Well if it's in the 5.1.1 and if the water does what you say, it has to be something else. I usually always check the roots first to make sure they look good and are happy. It is easy to over water even in the 5.1.1 mix or under water. It's easy to miss a step or two and the roots can still be suffering...Once you make sure the roots are ok, then you need to alleviate one problem at a time.....

For instance for example...

What nutrients does your fertilizer have?

Did you use 'lime' in your mix when you started?

Do you ever use vinegar?

What water do you use? Tap? rain? Bottled? Softened?

How do you know when to water? Does the bottom half of that pot stay wet while the top gets dry?

Have the temps been consistently above 55 at all times?

Have you all of a sudden changed it environment?

Why are you spraying it?

Mike

Alright nutrients I use the foliage pro dynagro as recommended by many people from the citrus forum and it is 9-3-6 and high nitrogen

I incorporated garden lime in it before potting up this citrus back in November.

Never used vinegar

I use hose water but sometimes the rain gets it. In the winter when its inside I use sink water which is tap water I think.

I usually stick to my schedule of watering every saturday mornings and before that I stick my finger in and its almost always dry or very close to dry if it rained the past days. And it couldn't have been dry for too long otherwise it would start showing obvious symptoms. I have no idea if the bottom half is wet or not, no way of checking it unless I dig out some soil which I am afraid to because I don't want to damage any roots.

Only like 4-5 days from the time I set my citrus outside the temperatures dropped below 55.

I haven't changed the environment. Its been in the same spot since I took my citrus outside early in the season.

I'm spraying it because I see red mites here and there and even though I keep squishing with my fingers(once went through literally every leaf and squashed every mite) it keeps coming back so I thought spraying would be the only option.

Are you sure they are red mites? How do you know? How do you see them? Living there, you should have no problem with any mites, spider mites that is if they are outside and sprayed down often with a good stream of water.

Why don't you try using vinegar at every watering? Give it a shot..I can almost promise you that your tap water pH is way too high blocking the nutrients from being utilized by your trees in which you can have symptoms of a very undernourished trees although you are using plenty. It can't hurt and it will only help. Try that for a few weeks if see if the leaves don't start to green up, leaves become better shaped and see if the newer growth grows in different.

If you think it's time to water because the part you check seems dry, lift your tree out gently before you do and check to see if the bottom roots are still wet or even rotted..

My trees never yellow up this time of the year unless they are exposed to temps below 55 quite often, so that can not be it, check that off your list)

MIke

I can clearly see them. They are red and tiny. I keep squishing them with my fingers everytime. And I saw some white webs underneath some of the leaves today so I got rid of it. I am assuming the mites made the web.

Ok I'll try the vinegar but what is the recommended dose? Like a tablespoon or teaspoon per gallon of water? More? Less?

Looks like fertilizer tip burn or salt build up to me.

Evan

If Evan is correct, I would flush your pots out with fresh water and just use a cap full , the cap on the top of that bottle or a couple of tablespoons per gallon....It's almost impossible to over fertilize in the 5.1.1 mix, then too none of us have seen a close up of the mix.....Is it possible your mix is still too fine., let's say towards the bottom of your containers? Have you lifted the tree from its pot yet? Can you take a pic ?

You can't spray vinegar on foliage. It will strip the wax off the leaves and new stems and they will dehydrate and die.

Steve

Is lifting the tree from the pot a good Idea when it's only been repotted in April? The roots aren't established in the mix yet and I don't want to risk damaging the roots. I'll try sticking my finger from the bottom of the pot but I'm 99% sure the overall mix is the same and equally fast draining. And I'll try with 2 tablespoon vinegar per gallon. Don't want to make it too acidic when the 5-1-1 mix is acid enough.

You will not be making your mix more acidic...Just the watering solution temporarily so it will deliver the nutrients right away..Never spray foliage with it. Just water in..)

Heruga, get a dowel or a stick like they use for shish kabobs and stick it into the soil mix mix all the way down to the bottom. Let it sit for for a little while to allow it to absorb any water and pull it out. See if any soil particles stick to it, if they do, then your soil is wet or moist.

I would use 1 tablespoon vinegar per gallon, not 2.

Thanks Vladimir..It was suppose to say two teaspoons or a tablespoon..Good catch

Since you see many red mites on your tree, any way to take a picture and send it to us? Last time someone asked us if a red colored mite lookalike was a harmful insect. From what I've looked into about mites, it wasn't a harmful one but beneficial. There's certain larger red mites that are predatory and actually fees on the mites that damage your tree. It's entirely possible that you're squishing alot of mites that can help you. When I mean "latterly" I just mean larger in comparison to a spider mite. I haven't seen a spider mite yet, the magnifying loupe I purchased has yet to ship out but I hear that spider mites are incredibly hard to see with the naked eye. They look like specks of dust when you knock them off into a piece of white paper and only with a magnifier can you see them in detail. The predatory mites are larger and you can actually see their legs. I've had one on my tree and left it there, it's not around anymore but I haven't seen any bug infestations on my tree yet *knocks on wood*

If you do not have a magnifying glass or a loupe, you can see spider mites by pressing your finger on the under side of a leaf to squish them. Then run your finger down a bit to smear them along the leaf. Look for wet spots. Also, if it is a more severe infestation, you will see tiny spider webs where the petioles join the leaves.

Haha I like that old school method but I really am interested in seeing what they look like. I like looking at pictures of insects when I go look for their identification. It's actually pretty fun to know the traits that make them look different from the beneficials. I also get some satisfaction knowing what bug I'm getting rid of, esp if I know for sure its a bad one!

Here it is. Also now I'm seeing yellow spots all over the tree.. Idk what's causing this but can I save it or is my tree going to die?

Looks like you have a couple of things going on there..Where is that tree kept all day? In full HOT sun? Looks like you have white fly issues too?

Why not use a good horticultural soap and keep that tree in partial sun until it recovers? I have never seen or heard of a mite problem like that outside in our area..Are you sure there are no other plants in the area spreading those to your tree?

There is NO reason whey you can't get that pest problem under control right away and keep that tree healthy..None at all, especially in that mix...Unless the grafted portion is defective for some reason, it should get fine

First and foremost you must make that tree as healthy as possible or pest will find a way to keep attacking it in its weaken state....Like suggested, start using vinegar and see if you don't notice a difference in a few weeks or even right away.

Then wash every leaf off one my one with a soapy water...Then rinse. Then spray with a good horticultural soap such as 'Safers', and keep in in partial sun or shade. Keep spraying once a week for 3 weeks..

How do you know its whitefly? Is that why there are yellow spots on the leaves? And I told you I already sprayed with organicide 3 in 1. The leaves are very sticky right now because of that spray and I am thinking that the stickiness is blocking the leaves from photosynthesizing..

Also here is another picture of that mite. So is it spider mites or predatory mites? They also walk pretty fast. And I see eggs under the leaves too

I can't tell what bugs they are :/ my suggestion is the same as Mikes. Most of the time trees become attacked because they are either not healthy and the pests detect that and as a result are on your tree but as a symptom of declining health. Or they attack a tree when they are fertilized too much in a short period, causing excessive growth that the tree can't properly defend from pests yet. The yellowing on your leaves seems like a sign of declining health being the reason for bugs attacking so best thing first is finding out the major cause.

Healthy roots? Soil pH? If those two are ok, the next would be looking at proper nutrient levels. Unhealthy roots mean trees can't take in nutrients efficiently even if there's plenty in the container. Too high or low of a pH means nutrients become paired with other molecules and cannot be absorbed by healthy roots. If those two are perfectly fine then it's definitely a lack of nutrition or maybe an underlying infection under the bark or something.

It should also be fine to water without dynagrow if the tree requires watering earlier than you expect. They should definitely be watered on their own schedule and temperature conditions fluctuate so much that the trees aren't guaranteed to be on a set 7 day water schedule. I keep one of my tree stakes in the soil, it's the cheap plastic kind and use that to see how much moisture glisten is on it. Sometimes it's completely dusty dry on the top half of the stick, but very moist the bottom half. It's a good extra method to have for detecting moisture levels

Well I don't see any pests other than this mite which I am still hoping it is a predatory mite. Where do you guys get the assumption that my trees have pests other than this mite? Isn't the yellowing also a possible sign of nutrient deficiency? And I thought that spider mites aren't visible through the eye? Then wouldn't that make this the predatory mite? I really need to find out before I bring it indoors...so I can make up my mind on either killing these bugs or keep them, whatever mite it is. Don't want any pest mites in the house. Anyone know for sure?

I'll cut back on the fertilizer for now but I watered it today with vinegar.

Yeah I believe it's most likely nutrient deficiency but you would have a better idea of what your tree is going through. The outline for figuring out the problem is usually going from the most general issue which is watering/roots, then nutrient, then bugs. And we mean to say that nutrient deficiency and pests go hand in hand sometimes.

When I was able to see the red beneficial mite on my tree, I was actually able to see the body and leg shapes too. I can't tell at all in your picture but phone photos normally make everything look smaller. And whatever it is, might not necessarily be a mite. There are many other kinds of bugs out there, if it's not a mite then we can't assume it's not some other bad pest :(

Does your container have drainage holes at the bottom? How come you said you can't check the bottom roots unless you dig out the soil?

The last picture looks like spider mites. The many white dots on the leaf also looks like spider mite damage.

Yeah here's an old thread about someone's leaves looking similar to yours and many ppl suggested spider mites http://forums.gardenweb.com/discussions/3137974/how-do-i-recognize-spider-mites-webs-from-good-ol-spiders

theres som cheap loupe/magnifiers out there for about 5 bucks that you can use

Well I can see it's legs too. It also walks pretty fast and I heard spider mites don't walk fast like predatory mites. Someone in that thread mentions magnifying glass but I don't need them because they are so visible! And I thought spider mites weren't supposed to be that big? And the white stuff is the eggs

And yes there are many drainage holes. Whenever I water it drains out super fast like there was nothing in there. But the holes aren't big enough for my fingers to fit through

Yeah the predatory mites are supposed to run around very fast.

Yea I see fast moving red mites and then I also see some webs on the bottom of the leaves by the joint which are definitely spider mites... Idk what to do, get rid of all of them even if they are beneficial mites? I just washed off the trees with a shower hose, don't know if that'll make a difference but I'll see. I also saw a lot of regular spiders living on the tree so I'm thinking they are feasting on the spider mites too but not enough to make a difference? Should I keep the spiders on my trees even when I bring it indoors for the winter?

Yup, if that was my tree I would clean every leaf off before bringing it in..It is always the bad ones that take over once the colder weather sets in and you bring them inside...I would not make this harder for yourself than you have to)

Where is this tree located? Is in near perennials? Annuals? Hanging baskets? Have you ever thought of using 100% pure Cold Pressed Fish emulsion in your spray regimen mixed with water??

Its in front of a garage door and they are next to my potted conifers. Not near any other plant except for Japanese irises which is like 8 feet away. The potted conifers are there to block deer from eating my citrus. What does cold pressed fish emulsion do? Does that get rid of mites? I currently use organocide 3 in 1 spray.

You sure you are using as directed? Looks like great stuff as Evan says, but something is just not right...You should of had them mites under control by now..By the way, there is Fish Oil in that stuff.. The oil residue can control sucking pests issues, well in my case anyways...It is a good preventative...I have never had to use it to get a bad issues under control alone.

But anyhow, if you were using the stuff you have properly, it should not harm your tree and those mites should me long gone.

Well I only sprayed it 3 times so far and I heard you have to make that a continuous process instead of just doing it once or few times. And the spray bottle I've been using only shoots in one direction so I don't think it got all the leaves.. But I still see mites on the sticky oil residue. Btw does that oil residue block the sun from letting the leaves photosynthesize?

It's best to spray when the light isn't very strong or the sunlight can be amplified by the oils and and damage the leaves. Best time to spray would be early morning or an hour before sunset. Usually the sprays instruct you to use them over a certain period of time because the lifecycle for pests is very short and they reproduce quickly. It's probably best to use the spray or wash with water even if there are beneficials bc of what Mike said about overwintering. The pests do well overwintering on the trees and live through until spring so reducing them as much as possible will help. You won't have beneficials in your house to help.

Guys another problem.. Why is my satsuma mandarin leaves turning partially brown? Is this a soil issue or something else? Notice I cut the end off last week on one of the leaves when it first started turning brown

https://imgur.com/Xtj18h3

https://imgur.com/QviEFKj

For some reason houzz isn't letting me post photos directly so you can check out the link

Hey Heruga, you already posted this. No need to hijack somoeone's thread to post it again.

Those are *definitely* two-spotted spider mites (Tetranychus urticae). Hit 'em with a jet of water short term because the force of water usually kills them (but leaves the eggs behind); long term, spray your trees with horticultural/neem oil every 5-7 days for a few weeks. Mites were once my bane until I started giving my trees one spraying of abamectin before I brought them in for the winter.

Regarding the browning, looks like the trees are way too wet. How often do you water?

-Tom

P.S. Vlad, Heruga is the original poster of both threads... but I agree, it is a bit... redundant.

Uhh this is my own thread. And I posted that other thread after posting it here because no one was responding to this question here. So how can you tell its spider mites? You say the browning is caused by wet soil, what other symptom do you see that leads you to think it's spider mites? And Btw I already sprayed it yesterday the whole tree and its my 4th time spraying it.

Your tree is tired..They are probably just going to fall off since they are close to death anyway...Your soil mix is fine unless you mixed it up wrong. Is the bottom staying wet too long? Is the top drying out and the bottom staying wet?

Mites cause stippling of the leaves which you have but they should be dead by now

Heruga, we mentioned that we suspect spider mites because of the leaf stippling. You can search google images for more examples or more sources for visual symptoms. The tiny yellow dots on your leaves don't match any nutrient deficiency symptoms, and they're tiny yellow dots which is what leads us to believe it's spider mites. And since most spider mites cannot be clearly seen by the naked eye, we can only suspect spider mites. Best way to confirm that is if you have some sort of magnifier to check

OP No problem with leaf drop here yet.

Sorry, heruga, I did not notice it was your thread.