I save peat pots for things that don't like to have their roots disturbed when transplanting; all others I use plastic. Lettuce and basil should transplant well. I'd separate them into individual pots or cell packs: dump the whole pot out, carefully tease the plants apart holding by leaves, not stem. Repot and water well to be sure roots are in good contact with the potting mix. Thyme you may have a bit more difficulty getting individual plants depending on variety. Try the same thing, but small clumps are OK for short types. All will need to be 'hardened off' before moving permanently to your deck. Lettuce and thyme you can begin as soon as they've recovered from the above transplanting. Basil is more tender, wait until your last frost date. Gradually get them acclimated to the stronger light, breezes, and fluctuating temperatures: take outdoors for a couple hours the first day, not in direct sun. Increase time & sun each day for about 10 days, then plant out. When planting out peat pots, be sure to tear back any part of the pot above the soil line or it will wick all the moisture. Hope this helps. Enjoy your salad garden!

Was my day for the twentyfiveminutewaterwand nonsense, so up at dawn to water some Hydramgeas, Hostas & Ferns, that were beginning to suffer. Pulled a few weeds and tree seedlings. No breeze at all today, so when the sun appeared, it was time to come in. After Church, went on a very short shopping trip to Wally World for a large plastic pot for a Hydrangea, then to nearby Farmer's Market for fresh fruit and a few vegetables(will not pay grocery store prices for those) and lastly, a Dollar Tree(the item I went to get, they had sent back to the warehouse). Rats! Spent some time online researching a no-blooms problem with my tomatoes. Didn't find a definitive answer, just a lot of other people across the country with the same problem. Back to the garden at sundown to see what needed attention, still no breeze and still very hot outside. Looks like a one-day break in heat at mid-week. Hope so, have a lot of plants that need potting or repotting with a more moisture retentive soil mix. Received a shipment of plants from a heretofore reputable West Coast nursery, that had a total failure in their shipping department. Result was, I received a box full of soiless mix, pots, bare root plants & labels, of several different cultivars of the same type plant, all separated from each other! The sales rep became huffy and quite rude, when I inquired if they were now using primates to prepare their plants for shipment. Have rehydrated them, but all have to be repotted and wait until next year's blooms(hopefully), to determine which ones are which. Never a dull moment around here. Suppose this will be a good time to tackle some of those indoor projects that have been neglected for awhile, in favor of the garden! Keep cool and drink a lot of fluids!

Responding to the questions: : Why do induction adverts generally show stainless pans? Partly, it is pro-style marketing and a perception of what is trendy, stylish, great looking, up-market, etc. Think about this: how often do you see any adverts showing $20 cast-iron pans on induction? They work very well on induction but you hardly see any ads showing them on induction, do you? Too down market when pitching premium priced goods, eh? Also makers and marketeers are likely a little gunshy of controversy. Showing high-end inert stainless steel pans avoids backlash and controversy. From whom? Well, there are folks who are vociferously paranoid about any use of any pans with non-stick surfaces. There are equally vociferous (but not paranoid) folks for whom non-stick is objectionable because of the risk of toxicity for factory workers involved in the manufacturing proceesses. There are other folks who object to the relatively short lifespan of the non-stick surfaces, something they see as wasteful and environmentally harmful. Using stainless in the adverts simply avoids more controversy. More controversy? Without much searching, you can turn up a bunch of internet chatter about induction supposedly being like using uncontained microwaves, being like cooking your food over unshielded nuclear waste, about magnetic waves desrtoying all nutrients and/or converting food into masses of cancer-causing free radicals, being likely to electrocute or burn you if you use metal utensils while cooking, and likely to fry any pacemaker within a 20 foot radius. Does anybody use non-stick cookware on induction? Lots of people do. Lots of non-stick surfaced-cookware is made for induction. Besides the brands mentioned above, another example is Circulon Premier Pro. I bought a set at my local Costco about four years ago. It was still being sold there the last time I was in earlier this month. Less than $200 (sometimes on sale for less than $150). Annodized aluminum bodies with magnetic ferrous plates in the bases. Works equally well on my induction and gas burners. Straddling two burners? Some use & care manuals forbid it, some manuals allow it, and some makers will tell you it is fine when you call tech support or check the product website. For example, the GE induction ranges (currently the PHS920 and PHB920, formerly the PHS925 and PHB925) have two 8-inch burners in a zone on the left side of the cooking surface. If you check the website and the FAQs, you will see that GE says it is okay to straddle those two burners with a grill or roasting pan and okay to use large kettles for canning. As others have pointed out above, straddling has to be done with burners in the same zone. The catch is what Danielle Waters points out above: you will likely get uneven heating in the center. With cast iron griddles (say, the Lodge 10 x 20 reversible griddle/grill pan) or carbon steel ones (say the big Chef-King models), and with roasting pans --- the heat will tend to be concentrated above the burners, leaving a gap in the middle that will be somewhat less-hot and also there may be less-hot areas at the outermost edges. The same thing happens, btw, with spanning on electric and gas stoves and cooktops, too. Not a big deal for things you can stir around on the surface --- say, that roasting pan when making the holiday gravy --- but a bit of problem with things like pancakes. Pancake batter poured into the very middle of burner-straddling griddle will take longer to cook than the batter poured onto the parts directly above the burners. A lot of preheating helps some, but not much. (Cast iron and carbon steel will conduct some heat but are not partcularly good at it; their forte is more retaining heat than spreading it evenly.) These effects are avoided when the stove or cooktop has additional elements that "bridge" the gaps in heating. (Obviously enough, that's why they are called "bridging elements.") The Bosch Benchmark flexinduction is a different concept. It basically borrows the "Freedom" technology of Thermador (a corporate sibling in BSH) and puts an array of smaller induction coils across the burner areas. This has more uses than just straddling with griddles. For example, in theory, it can give more even heating across the entire base of a pan. Induction fields are toroidal -- doughnut shaped -- so the very center of pan won't be as hot as the middle 2/3 of the base. Having a lot of smaller induction coils should, in theory, make for a more even spread of heat. Also helps with bridging, too. Likewise, some manuals will tell you to never, ever use any pans more than ½" larger in diameter than the induction burner diameter. So you should never ever brew beer or use a 20-quart canning kettle on those induction units. Other makers will say it is just fine as long as you know that the heating may not be perfectly even across the entire base. The part directly above the burner (the part within the strong part of the induction field ) can be hotter than the outer part of the base. No big deal when cooking with lots of liquid but maybe a problem when you want to perfectly melt and hold a couple gallons of a delicate sauce or melting and holding chocolate at the same exact temperature all across the base a 14" diameter pan. As for burner-straddling and oversize pans potentially harming the glass-top --- not bloody likely. Schott Ceram surfaces are rated for thermal differentials of 750° F. Once upon a time, several decades ago, in a lab far, far away, in the course of developing the early radiant electric smoothtops, some engineers supposedly managed to have a thin metal pan on burner on the highest setting for long enough to either melt the pan or crack the cooktop. Maybe both. (Stories vary.) Doesn't happen with induction. Pan gets too hot for too long and the burner shuts off. Weight may be a different matter. Some cooktops may have thinner tops than others and others may be designed with mountings with a limited weight-bearing capacity. Get a 5 gallon kettle full of water for boiling pasta or a ten-gallon kettle for brewing beer, and you've got an awful lot of weight. If the stove or cooktop's use and care manual forbids canning, the weight may be reason for the prohibition. As for Kas's point about unprotected electronics in areas beneath the spaces between burners, that is a possibility for some induction cooktops. Those would be the ones with the manuals that expressly forbid burner-spanning and oversize pots. So, if burner spanning is something you want to do, read the manuals and avoid the units that forbid it. Stainless trim/edging: Sorry, I've got no idea on this.

Marica, I'm not sure yet. I have some cheap shallow plastic tubs I might pile them in. I barely water them in the winter, though so I don't need much to catch water. All I have is one big patio glass door that I sit them by, inside my condo. It faces NE which isn't the best. But they do fine and come back every year. It's very difficult moving around that side of my bedroom haha. It can drop down into 30's and sometimes even 20's in our winters. To bring mine on when it gets into 40's. I don't use any light or heat bulbs, just the window.