This old thread got revisited. @dani_m08 to answer the question about extra probe, I believe I ordered an extra one when I bought the set up. The probe wire is just setting in the junction box I think but honestly I cant remember. When I laid out the underfloor heating and the probe, I just ran another probe near the first probe, and it was then sealed into the floor self leveling compound as per instructions. then the end was just threaded into the wall like the one that would be live, and not connected, but just laying there in the box. Regarding the tile layout. I just decided to run it this way, after getting instructions on the 90Degree way, IIRC. The herringbone that I love is from my childhood and the side walks in my neighborhood that all ran at 45Degree. so that to me is herringbone. I know you posted on @sochi thread about her amazing bathroom and a wall mounted faucet. I would totally do it if I had the right sink for it. In my case I had made my sink out of soapstone and an integrated backsplash. The pictures of this bathroom reveal are no longer available because of the use of photo bucket, when it was Gardenweb. I did not keep my account with photo bucket. I'll add some of the reveal pictures so you can see the sink and floor. Regarding the sink there is no ledge for water to drip from my hands when using the faucet. The water drips right into the sink. In my other bathroom with a deck mounted faucet I am always wiping up drips and it is a nuisance. I much prefer the setup for this sink. Below: I love the flush finish from the faucet to the bottom of the sink. nothing drips on a counter or edge of a sink. Below: looking in from the doorway. Below: Here I am finishing up the sink. the backsplash was epoxied on as a separate piece. The whole soapstone install in the room took next to nothing to buy as they were all small pieces that I epoxied together with a 3 part stone epoxy. Below: this is the counter at the tub, and is in 2 long pieces but I was able to epoxy them together at there edges to make a wide slab for the top. All the soapstone was finished with a 60 grit sandpaper to be rough and this lovely soft tone of blue/green/gray/white. I did not oil it so this color tone would remain light. Below: If I recall correctly @sochi helped me decide on this Hubberton Forge Mirror. I have 3 different metals in this room, but they are all a cool silver to black color. Below: the center of this tower shares space with the kitchen on the other side of the wall. there is also some extra space that houses some electrical wiring. this is an old simple house. this bathroom was an add on when it got move to the farm in the 30s IIRC. The plumbing was all rearrange and some of the details that were orignially there I kept but updated it, such as this tower feature. The old one went and the carpenter did a wonderful job with this one. Below: This feature was another thing I kept from the old bathroom but flipped it from the other end and had the carpenter put drawers in it. Before it was a hell hole. things got lost and the build was soooo old and creapy I didn't like using it for storage. Now it is perfect for storage.

Pittsburgh Paints Black Magic 518-7 mixed in their Accent Colors which only comes in Interior Matte Finish. I've used this paint in bathrooms several times. It is matte and it is a good fit for a bathroom. Truly, one of the very best options for black walls. Figuring out something with a black from Ben Moore in Aura would be second choice. ICI, now Azko-Nobel, has one of the truest blackest blacks called Dark Secret. Not sure what they're doing with their uber deep bases theses days - have to check it out at the store. I think it was Texashottie here on the forum (forget the name exactly) that ended up going with Dark Secret in her dining room. Her pix were fab. Be aware that this thing called water whitening can happen with all brands and grades - it's especially noticeable with super dark colors. Due to moisture, white streaks will develop, like the paint is running, and then disappear. They usually go away completely on their own over time. One day it just strikes you that it's gone. It's not surfacant leaching. It's different and again it should go away on it's own.

Rip it all back to the joists and start over by determining if your floor is stiff and strong enough to handle what you want to put on it. You may need to sister the joist to both increase stiffness and level the floor. Then, after you level the joist, install new 3/4" subfloor and assess height to existing floors to see what the next layer should be.

If you're going to use tiles at the edge to form a water resistant barrier, I see no need to fill in behind them. The tiles you install are unlikely to be as thick as the old baseboard. How will you address the gap between the floor and the new tile base? Perhaps a better choice would be to install PVC baseboard and seal the edges with a sanded caulk to match the tile grout color. Unless you have a drain in the floor, making the room a drip pan will only work until there's a leak big enough to flow out the door.