We have just finished exactly this scenario. Forgive the self-referential length, but it may give you some ideas. Scenario: opening up attic as extra living space created knock-on effect of HAVING to move the kitchen out of the way of new stairs, which also meant opening up a loadbearing wall to allow sufficient space for access. ULTRAtight budget. The process for us: I started playing 'what if?" with some design software almost as soon as we moved in 3 years ago (we knew from the get-go this house would only work for us if we expanded into the attic and bought it with that in mind - location, location, location!) and was tweaking it right up till the end. Once I had a design I thought "could" work - all highly dependent on the realities of what might be behind the walls, structural loads etc (all of which I knew NOTHING about) - I started talking to people. Friends who had recently remodelled, friends who were architects, friends who were builders. Just to try and learn what some of the terms I'd heard bandied about meant so I could understand exactly what might be going on. Then, we started interviewing contractors. I got a lot of interesting information in the course of htat, most particularly about the load-bearing wall etc etc etc. It also inspired me to come up with 3 "final designs" which approached that wall differently - one framed a doorway through it leaving much of it standing, and one opened it out entirely (the third was terrible, but I did it anyway - it's easy when you have your own software!) Once we found our contractor, I got as much info from him regarding that wall as possible so I could continue to refine my design (with his help). He absolutely refused to give a firm answer either way until he was inside the wall. While a little frustrating at the time because I wanted to finalise and get cabinets, I realise he was ABSOLUTELY right to do it this way, as it avoided any misunderstandings or complications until he KNEW what was in there. In the end, it turned out that a previous owner's addition to the back of the house had already beamed the span, resulting in TWO sets of supports for that ceiling and the roofline - all he had to do was reinforce it (didn't even need the metal flitch beam he'd originally suspected would be required). There was no way of knowing that until they got inside the walls and could really look at it. This is how the floorplan changed: original layout my first "final" design (keeping a chunk of wall and using it to build one side of a pantry) the final layout: And the almost finished kitchen (I've since replaced the table and we've added some more details, but this shows the layout). Despite the fact that I've historically preferred formal dining rooms, I LOVE LOVE LOVE the open layout. We never entertain formally, we have a young child, and in the event a future owner ever DID want a formal dining room they could transform the room we are using as a separated music studio and use that. So... we couldn't be happier. I agree that even if you hand off your job to a designer, stay invested in the details. I can't BELIEVE how well this job has come out. Sure, I took loooadddsss of advice from folks and needed tons of help (which I got from many sources, not least of which the amazingly generous and talented people in here who are directly responsible for many of the final layout ideas!), but it is MY kitchen. It works for us. There were very few "whoopsies". I mostly credit my wonderful GC with that, but I also suspect that the fact that I was VERY involved with it all and didn't just hand off a drawing and say "do that" really helped. It was a very collaborative project which not only means I got something that really works for us, but that communication stayed excellent and thus... fewer mistakes. Good luck with your remodel!

Kirkarch, I REALLY appreciate the time you took for that layout but I agree with what others have said. The comment that really struck home was what Stan said about creating confusion when you first walk in with 2 doors and not knowing where to go. I love the aesthetic of the 2 doors from the kitchen side, but from the front of the house, I don't think it will work =( As it turns out, a 48" single door really kills the 6'+ island, unless it encroaches on the plane of the door. With 42" aisles I can do a max of 5', by my calculations. So, back to NOT bumping out the wall into the front room with this one. The only thing I really gain with a wall bump out is a slightly deeper island and the possibility of an easy reach cabinet with breathing room around the window molding next to the sink. With this layout, i'm giving up my even reveal around the window, but from the 3d plan, it actually doesn't bug me so much since the cabinets are on different planes. Hooray! Michey 1, OCD 0! So, island is 5' across with an as yet undetermined depth. I've also temporarily nixed the stages and went down to a 33" sink base. Hopefully there's a 30" sink out there with my name on it, lol. Some questions: 42" aisles on sink and stove side. Acceptable? Island is 5' wide, unless I expand more towards the fridge wall, but then it will not line up with the edge of the stove wall cabinets. Should I keep them lined up or try to go bigger? right now I have 5'4 between cabinets on the fridge wall (they are pulled forward as shown) and the island edge and that's the main path to family room nirvana. I put the trash opening towards the DW. With a 42" aisle, think that's problematic? I will be able to sweep things to the side as MelEdwards suggested this way, which gives me more standing room opposite the stove. Now there's a janky 12" cabinet in the island. Cutting board storage, I guess? Trying to figure out where knives and such should go. Drawer above the trash? the 9" on the stove wall can be for cookie sheets, I guess. As you can tell, I haven't full mapped out my "what should go where" yet. I shrank the pantry to try and get the fridge closer to line up with the aisle, though it's still not perfect. I'm worried the pantry is becoming to narrow and deep to be useful. Was planning shallow shelves on 3 walls and deeper shelves towards the bottom on the back wall for big stuff. For a reach in pantry, how small is too small? Thank you thank you, everyone!

@texasgal47: I am actually already thinking of a solutiion using a gateleg. I have access to an IKEA Norden table that with some slight leg tweaking (i.e. place leg in center of the table + shorten leg to close fully) it should to the trick: -> @Jillius: Yes, the entrance to the apt. goes through the hallway. The windows below are windows swinging out. The door on the bottom left (of this sentence) lead to a balcony. Here is the full view:

Your new LR looks OK--we have a 13.5 x 27' LR, no family room, and it's fine. What jumps out at me are the widths of the kitchen aisles, which are too narrow. I don't think you are accounting for the front counter overhangs on perimeter counter and island, so the work aisle will be further reduced by at least 2". If at all possible, I'd extend the kitchen floor to meet the bottom step in the DR, to add a few inches to the work aisle and to add to the space behind the island seating--but that would take away needed space for the DR. It's a shame the fireplace can't be picked up and moved to the new LR. Even though the work aisle is too narrow, I'm going to make some suggestions to help the function and flow, as the layout's drawn. I would center the range between the windows, using a hood at least 6" wider than the cooktop, to help contain the grease and steam plume, since there are no upper cabinets to provide a capture area. If no make-up air system exists, that will need to be addressed. I would then move the DW to the other end of the island, with dish storage in drawers across the aisle. Trash pull-out on the other end can be shared with all zones. At 22' there should be space for an 11' island, with 8' for four seats (24" minimum per seat). 15" wide upper cabinets can be used for the storage beside the seating, reinforced to help support the counter top, with an apron supporting the 8' span. Make sure the support system is designed before the island is installed. The seating overhang won't be quite as deep as the minimum 15" recommended by the NKBA, so use the thinnest back cover panel available. Since only a small space is available for a tall pantry cabinet, I'd use all drawer bases for extra storage and ease of accessing all space. On the short run, I'd create a coffee/snacks center with a small sink on the shared plumbing wall. A few coffee cups, glasses, and plates can be kept above the sink for convenience, and to keep grazers out of the narrow work aisle. NKBA guidelines New to Kitchens? Read me first.