Make Final Appliance Choices....really, no more research and pondering
nanreno14
6 years ago
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wekick
6 years agoChris Vaughan
6 years agolast modified: 6 years agoRelated Discussions
Help Making Final Soapstone Decision!
Comments (56)Mabsy, we took our sample slab when we went to lay the template. They divided it into 4 sections, and honed one to 80 grit, one to 100 grit, one to 200 and one to 240, so we could see the difference. The higher they polished it, the more I could see the undulations of the quartz areas vs the talc areas. At a lower grit, the whole surface was more even. We decided that the 80 grit finish was best for our soapstone. Hope this helps....See Morepondering pantries
Comments (18)I think it sounds like a great idea. Walk in/step in pantries are wonderful if one has the space. But for those of us who don't, what you propose sounds like a really useful design. I can imagine using the drawers below for canned and jarred goods, for example, making sure that they were extra strong for the weight and perhaps even had those angled supports used in spice drawers so that one could see all the cans at a glance. Drawers would also work well for boxes or jars of pasta, rice, beans, etc. which could all be labeled on the top for ease. On the top section, I'd consider some roll out shelves since the 24" depth would otherwise make it tough to see and access what's in the back. They wouldn't be necessary, of course for cases of soda, big packs of paper towels, etc. I also liked the baskets for potatoes, onions, etc. in the picture laughable posted. If you didn't want to have open baskets/drawers on the bottom, you could also incorporate something like them into roll-out trays in the upper portion behind doors. There are always the fancy pantry cabinets sold which pull-out/fold out that work for 24" deep cabinets, but I like your idea much better....See MoreBeen pondering brix
Comments (11)Brix measurements are useful in several growing areas, but one needs to remember that it is total soluble materials that are being measured, and not specific nutrients. You really are mostly measuring sugar content, and making the supposition that when sugars are higher, nutrients are higher. There is some reasonable research that does indeed show that other nutrients rise when brix rises for a given plant variety being grown. There is also the supposition that when sugars are higher, the plant is being grown in a better environment or soil. A fair bit of research and my own experience is that this is the case also. However, brix measurements are quite valuable in several areas. First, comparing the brix measurements from several plants of the same variety grown with different methods can help to characterize the growing methods. You might be able to determine, for instance, if the addition of a certain nutrient really did increase the production efficiency of a plant (as reflected by its sugar contents). Samples for such characterization can be expressed from a portion of the plant pruned off (such as a tomato branch). Care needs to be taken to sample from the same portion of each of the plants under observation; brix varies throughout the plant. You can use this method to help tailor future soil amendments or additions based on the impact of the amendment on a given plant. A second useful application of brix measurements is to compare one variety to another under the same growing conditions. For instance, some foreign markets require tomatoes to have a certain brix value. You would therefore want to start with a variety that had an intrinsically high brix value. One can somewhat impact brix values by growing techniques, but the major factor is the genetics of the variety being grown. nc-crn stated this fact well up above. There has been good work done at several locations aimed at increasing the brix (and presumably the nutrient levels) of some produce. The Controlled Environment program in Tucson has shown the results of some of this work at conferences. For most plants, you would need to wait until the plant has a leaf or stem that can be pruned in order to express the liquid needed. For a fast growing plant like squash, this might be 2-3 weeks after seedling emergence; for something slower like a pepper, you might need to wait 4-5 weeks before sampling. Since fruit sampling is destructive, it would only be done if there is a large crop of fruit at the same stage in order to determine if it is harvest time. For total plant nutrient testing, if that is an interest, and you want to spend the money, there are tissue analysis labs who can do the work. You send in a small paper bag with leaves from the crop, and they provide a nutrient profile, and sometimes recommendations for fertilizer additions. Servi-tech in Dodge City, KS used to, and probably still does this kind of work. In my experience, for a given variety it is indeed quite possible to significantly improve the quality of produce by proper fertilization. I, and people who eat my produce, can taste the difference readily. Certainly a healthy soil is an important start, as is a careful approach to cultural requirements. Note that many people claim, and it is my experience, that a high brix plant is more resistant to insect attack. There are probably just as many folks who would claim the opposite, so you'll need to experiment. I find, for instance, that if I grow peppers with more than the standard amount of nitrogen that I get a much larger plant with more succulent growth that tends not to be attacked by aphids as readily. My fruiting might be delayed a bit, but overall production will be higher, and the plant overall will be healthier. This kind of growing is one application I have for some soluble fertilizers in addition to organic ones. If you want to compare your produce to some nominal standards, http://www.highbrixgardens.com/pdf/brix-chart.pdf has a reference chart with a number of fruits and vegetables. The link attached below from Ohio has a good summary of the use of brix testing to help insure a quality harvest. Renais Here is a link that might be useful: Brix as an indicator of vegetable quality...See MorePondering my kitchen layout
Comments (12)I've read a couple of reasons for not wanting the DW under the immediate prep area--usually preferred on the other side of the sink. If someone else is helping by cleaning up while you prep, they can access the DW more easily if it's not in front of you, and you don't have to move to allow them access. Also, some do not want to prep over a steaming DW. I have a small kitchen, so I prep on the counter over the DW, which is between the sink and stove. The stove used to be on the other side of the kitchen, but switching it to an exterior wall for venting was more important to me than the DW/prep issue. I have a trash pullout beside the DW, in the prep area, which is about where you describe, and I love the convenience of what I call 'drag and drop' or, swishing. Ideally (to me, as primary user of a kitchen with one sink) DW would be on one side of the cleanup sink with trash pullout on the other side in the prep area--still accessible for scraping, but more convenient for prepping. Scraping/cleanup usually takes less time than prepping, and takes place after the meal is prepped and cooked, so at that time access to trash pullout would not be blocked by someone using the prep space. Separate prep and cleanup areas are very popular layout choices on GW--if space allows. I hope you can find the best layout for you--the one who has to use the kitchen every day. You've probably done a lot of research for the ADA plans, but have you read the 'New to Kitchens?' thread? It was organized by one of our very knowledgeable pro's, and has a lot of good info on kitchen planning: http://ths.gardenweb.com/discussions/2843508/new-to-kitchens-read-me-first?n=105...See Morenanreno14
6 years agoRita / Bring Back Sophie 4 Real
6 years agodan1888
6 years agonanreno14
6 years agoalex9179
6 years agoKim G
6 years agonanreno14
6 years agonanreno14
6 years agoChris Vaughan
6 years ago
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