Generally the people on this forum like Bluestar but there does seem to be quite a bit of set up work that the owner seems to be required to do. Nothing difficult but adjusting burners air mix and such.

We have a 36” Blue Star RNB range with 4 burners and a griddle. We chose the Blue Star over the Wolf, primarily because of burner performance and its simple construction design (no electronics or computer to go bad). We've been very happy with it overall, though we did have a gas valve start leaking after 7 months. It was covered under warranty and it's been fine ever since. The oven on the 36" is quite large. It preheats to 350 in less than 15 minutes and roasts beautifully. The few things we've baked have turned out well too. We tend to use the convection feature whenever we bake or roast. The burners are fantastic and the griddle works as advertised, though burgers and the like can make a bit of a mess. Fortunately cleanup is really easy. Proper initial setup by the dealer is a must. I think that proper setup mitigates some of the issues you've read about on this forum.

I have a 36" RNB and BS vent hood and both I would categorize as perfectly fine and the customer service fine for the most part, but lacking in other areas.

Honestly, I wonder if my stove and hood were from Bluestar's Land of Misfit Stoves. I REALLY, REALLY wanted to love the items, so it crushes me that they are not living up to my expectations, especially with all the money and time I put into them.

The stove's burner bowls (the square part that surrounds the grate) arrived terribly discolored. They do not have an even finish on them, and it looks like one especially has great all over it.

One burner would never start, and then when it did, it would create this huge "fireball." None of us would use that burner. They came it fix that. It still does it sometimes, but for the most part that has been remedied. Yay, Bluestar.

What is sooooooo annoying, is that the burners click all the time when cooking. The sound you hear when your turn on the burner never goes away. A guy came ti fix it once, said everything was installed properly, jiggled things enough that it didn't do it for a day, but they both do it all the time. Every time I hear that noise, it makes me sad that I have the stove I do.

The vent collects grease that drops onto my counter overnight all the time. It collects at the top right screw. I called BS and the CSR asked for a picture, which I texted to him. He said people were looking into it and he would get back to me, but that was three weeks ago.

I also paid for a repairman to come out and show me what I was doing wrong, and he couldn't find anything. It is VERY level, and I clean everything. He said it was a design flaw and he took pictures to send the BS rep. Again, two weeks and nothing. The fallen grease is dangerously close to my floor. I also surreptitiously remove the grease that hangs on that screw, because my husband was against BS anything. We wanted me to go with a Wolf stove, so it kills me that I am having all these troubles.

There are many things I do like about the stove, but they are masked by the troubles. I don't think they are a terrible company, and I am trying not to flame them here. I am not that type of person. Just when I was researching, I saw NOTHING but positives about BS ranges, so I thought I would put down my alternate experience.

Clicking burners and "fireballs" are almost certainly just a problem with misaligned igniters. I am surprised that the service technician wasn't able to fix this. It's not exactly rocket surgery. Just bend the igniter a little bit. I find that Vise-Grip pliers work well; but there always is a small risk that you'll shatter the ceramic insulator when doing that. So, while you are under warranty, might as well call a technician to do it for you.

Speaking of insulators. You need to make sure that the igniter wires don't run too closely to any metal surfaces. If necessary, adjust the zip ties that they should be fastened with. If for some reason, there aren't any (e.g. your installer removed them), then add your own zip ties to run the igniter wires underneath the burners.

If you see sparks from the wires to the rest of your stove, instead of from the igniter to the burner head, then you know that the wires are not routed properly. The sparks are entirely harmless. But of course, sparking against the drip tray also doesn't do any good, as that's not where the gas is.

Finally, make sure the igniter is tightly fastened to the burner head. I have had one case where the screw wasn't tight on a floor model, and it resulted in very erratic igniter behavior.

Again, you shouldn't have to do any of this yourself. It should all have been done by the installer and then work flawlessly for many years. But if it fails, it's generally easy to fix.