I just wanted to chime in about the radiant heat/wood floor issue. I have researched the heck out of this over the past two years. We are in the process of building a home in Colorado and are using hydronic radiant heat with poured gypcrete over it. I was never told that I couldn't use wood flooring. There are many companies that sell wood floors that are able to be used over radiant heat. One company that comes to mind that makes beautiful solid hardwood floors is Carlisle Wide Plank Floors. The only thing that you might have to be concerned with is the width of the plank. Most people that I spoke to do not recommend using planks wider than 8" over radiant heat due to "cupping". The product I chose to use is a site-finished engineered walnut floor with square cut edges made by Owens PlankFloor. It is the most beautiful engineered product that I have found. It comes in a variety of widths (I am using 6" planks) and very long lengths. I did not want any short boards installed so I had my contractor order some extra so only 3 ft and longer boards are being used. It is being installed right now in my home. From what I have heard/learned about this product is that people can not tell that it is an engineered wood product...they think it is solid hardwood. Your kitchen cabinet selection is gorgeous and your dinig room is beautiful. I would definately do some more research into using wood floors. I don't think tile would look right in your home. Good Luck!

Rigid sheathing over the patch should do just fine. The height difference in the two floors isn't something you can help. If you feel that it is worth the effort and the price, you can ask him to stop and REMOVE the top layer of subfloor. Then ask him to REPLACE IT with NEW plywood. This will NOT change the roller-coaster waviness of the surface. That is inherent in the house. It will simply give you smooth "new" while keeping the two floor heights as close to even as possible. If the height variation upsets you, then you have two options: choose sheet material like sheet vinyl or sheet linoleum or rip out and rebuild the entire kitchen floor and *possibly the entire main level. My suspicion is the KITCHEN floor was raised to meet/match the other flooring. If that is the case, it is possible to remove the current plywood and then drop in slightly THINNER plywood. Again....this all hangs on the question as to whether or not the kitchen subfloor was raised to meet the other flooring. You are not allowed to go "too thin" with a subfloor. Most industry standards require (depending on where you live and how old the house is) TWO layers of subfloor that equal or exceed 3/4" total thickness. Sigh. It might be possible to drop the kitchen subfloor a snick. But the amount of money and effort it will take could be a deal breaker. It should have/would have been talked about BEFORE he started patching. And I mean WAAAAAAAY before he started patching. Like several WEEKS before he stepped on site. This would have been discussed because you would have CHOSEN your floor and discovered the difference and would have raised the possibility at the time. It's not too late...but then again you don't want to see his face after you tell him to rip out his work and start again...with new plywood, etc.

Sorry I didn't mention it--new appliances are not installed yet. I chose stainless. I like the black slate look. What do you think of the gloss factor? The granite is pretty shiny. I really like the natural look the slate provides.

No, we didn't choose Iona, wechose Vesta as I changed the color of the shower/backsplash tile to Architectural Gray from Daltile https://www.daltile.com/product/Color-Wheel-Collection-Classic?color=Matte-Architectural-Gray&shape=Rectangle https://coretecfloors.com/en-us/products/coretec-stone/vesta-vv568-18363 We're quite happy with the Coretech! A neighbor came to see our bathrooms and commented "it's warm (in stocking feet)" perhaps in comparison to a stone tile which would feel colder. DH installed it and used the Coretech transition for the primary bath, but we had a wood transition that was glued down for the hall bath so I asked him to cut it at a 45 degree angle and I think it looks wonderful! Our bathrooms are small so with this large of a tile there were few that he didn't have to cut. hall bath transition, tile cut to 45 degree hall bath, natural light from skylight in bath hall bath from bathtub, hall weaving is from Huatulco, MX https://www.google.com/search?q=huatulco+mexico+weaving&sxsrf=ALeKk012mrZxsoP1y_9ZS2b20CuGP_Fwdg:1614037566839&tbm=isch&source=iu&ictx=1&fir=kgeDyTPUDQUuHM%252C48IRYwsqKt_SVM%252C_&vet=1&usg=AI4_-kQWJyN6535gYFKBUpZ3mYgwsYj4DQ&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwjq_My-1v7uAhXCv54KHa1aDqcQ9QF6BAgJEAE#imgrc=kgeDyTPUDQUuHM primary bath with vanity light on Coretech transition, color is Vesta