Need help: floor heating, towel warmers - cold bathroom
Annie
6 years ago
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Creative Tile Eastern CT
6 years agoCreative Ceramic & Marble/ Bill Vincent
6 years agoRelated Discussions
Radiant heat for bathroom floor?
Comments (6)floor heat is not hot enough to warm your clothes in the way that was mentioned in the first post. it is ok to warm a closet floor too. There is no danger. when you go see floor heat companies' web sites, you will see that they often place the heat cables in the middle section of the floor and not around the perimeter:: this is one way to plan it out well, so that you are not spending more and not putting heat into furniture (or boxes). BUT, the amount of heat energy is so minimal that it makes no big difference if some of the furniture base is resting on heated sections of floor. However, this statement might be untrue in one case or another, and if so, then the heat will build up a bit more than expected and perhaps cause some form of problem (like, just imagining, e.g. a stronger glue smell coming from cheap furniture). So, the companies are not going to overstate the case and advise you to install heat cables underneath fitted furniture that has closed-box bases....See MoreElectric Towel Warmers & Room Heat
Comments (4)I have a hydronic Runtal, not an electric, however my understanding is that Runtal makes radiators... yes towel bars, but their function is actually as radiators. That is why they have BTU ratings, so one can calculate the heat requirements and choose an appropriately sized unit. As stated on their website referring to both electric and hydronic, "Runtal towel radiators offer comfortable radiant heat in the bathroom while at the same time providing the luxury of warm, dry towels and bathrobes." BTW, my hydronic one is even a little too warm!! There is a way to calculate how many BTU's one needs... but it can be complicated....See Morecold bathroom/bedroom above cold garage
Comments (9)If I could just comment her and maybe get some feedback on this topic. I have a somewhat related issue. I hade my master bath toilet and the cold water feed for the washer in the adjacent laundry room freeze up twice last year. The master bathroom bumps out 18" from the rest of the house. These pipes run up the outside wall and thru the subfloor of that 18" bumpout section. FOr whatever stupid reason, the builder's design didn't put the piping on an interior wall. The attempted fixes last year included adding more insulation inside the soffit of that bumpout, and then adding an second wall vent in the laundry room behind the washer so that warm air could circulate behind the wall, and that was supplemented by encasing the pipes behind there with insluated foam board of some kind. Anyway,the same pipes froze again last night. BY the time my wife got the builder's site foreman over to the house, the pipes thawed out. Toilet bowl filled back up and the cold water runs again on the washer. How that happened overnight is beyond me. It had to be in the teens during the overnight, if not colder. Well, he first tried to blame the frozen pipe situation on the fact that he says we leave our garage door open for great periods of time. ThatÂs crap, IM! How can that seriously be a contributing factor to the pipes in question?? My master bedroom is fully above the garage space (it's not abnormally cold and the proper insulation is in the garage ceiling, according to code), and adjacent is the master bath, and adjacent is the laundry room. The feed pipes for the toilet and washer are located about 14 feet to the side of the garage area on the backside of the house and in the area of the first floor ceiling/second floor subflooring. And he's claiming that cold air from the garage is causing or contributing to these pipes freezing? It's not like we leave the garage open for extended periods of time in freezing weather, and we certainly don't leave it open overnight! The master shower and jacuzzi tub don't freeze up, and they are phjysically closer to the garage than the toilet. GIVE ME A BREAK!!! In addition to that, IÂd also point out the fact that the toilet area of the master bath is directly above the first floor pantry, which is extremely warm, with a floor vent in there and the pantry door closed most all the time. All that warm air in the ceiling of the pantry. What a real jerk this guy is, trying to peddle this lame excuse as the contributing factor to the pipes freezing!! Two different plumbing contractors that have worked for the home builder in the past year, they both said the piping didn't belong on the outside wall. But the foreman says they aren't going to tear up the tile flooring and walls to move the pipes. They want the issue to be shored up via insulating methods. Any comments? The garage excuseby the foreman is bull$hit, right?...See MoreSupplementary Bathroom Heat--Which Option Would You Do? (XPost fr
Comments (4)I'd prefer fan-driven electric heat. A single 1500W heater will raise my 12x12x8 bathroom about 15 degrees in 15 minutes and only needs to be used when I'm showering. Starting with a 65F room, the heater combined with the heat from the shower itself will result in 85-90F by the time I step out of the shower to dry off (which is precisely when you want the room to be warm). Radiant floor heat is nice but it would take much longer to heat the room because it must first warm the tile which then radiates into the room. Another thing to keep in mind: Your exhaust fan is going to suck warm air from the room and replace it with the 64F air from elsewhere in your house. Thus, if your 13x9 bathroom has a properly-sized exhaust fan, a 1500W heater probably won't be able to keep up. However, since heated air itself will prevent condensation (unless the walls are very cold), I don't run my exhaust fan until I'm out of the shower......See Morecat_mom
6 years agoBeth
6 years agoMongoCT
6 years agolast modified: 6 years agoroarah
6 years agolast modified: 6 years agoAnnie
6 years agolast modified: 6 years agoMongoCT
6 years agoOnlytowelwarmers.com
6 years ago
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