Weed B Gone, 2oz per gal for every 500sqft,how much for spot spraying?
tye22tye
6 years ago
last modified: 6 years ago
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danielj_2009
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Comments (11)I am new to iris gardening too but I guess that I am going to skip the mulch though I have a big weed problem also. What I found is that I can weed much more quickly if I just pull out the big ones, roots-and-all, and settle for a less than perfect job by using a hoe to dislodge the rest. I say less than perfect because obviously I'm not getting the roots with the hoe. But, if I keep up with this and get to the weeds before they go to seed, I'm hoping that eventually those weed roots will run out of energy and die. (Or is it me who will run out of energy and.....) On a side note, I've found that if you go into a store and ask for a hoe, in addition to the laughing and strange looks you might get, they'll just say, "huh?" I guess it's called a cultivator nowadays because of the fact that respectable people don't want to ask for a "ho(e)". P.S. If you have a problem with purslane and/or spotted spurge, you will have to use round-up or pull them all out roots and all or all the little pieces will form separate plants (!)...See MoreWeed or not a weed?
Comments (16)PopMama, I got curious enough to check out the Colorado Noxious Weed list on this one—and it’s NOT on it! As of now, none of the Campanulas are on it! But here’s a good info page I ran into if you want to see more about it. Check out the tabs on top for pics and other info. On the “legal status” tab it tells if a plant is a Noxious Weed ANYWHERE in the country. If it’s not, there’s just no “noxious weed” info there! (This is the USDA site some of us have referred to recently, but it looks to me like they’re changing it—for the better! There's more useable info than I remember the site having!) Pics of it on the “images” tab, and I agree that’s what it is—I hadn’t been familiar with it before! http://plants.usda.gov/core/profile?symbol=CARA&photoID=cara_004_ahp.tif I way agree with OakIris that it’s a good idea to get rid of it NOW, while you still can. I made a mistake when I decided the Mexican Evening Primrose (Oenothera speciosa ‘Siskiyou’) that was here when I bought the house was SO Pretty that I didn’t want to get rid of it—even tho I KNEW it was invasive. A couple years later—after it had gone UNDER my 3’ wide sidewalk I decided maybe it wasn’t so pretty after all—and spent a few years fighting it to finally get rid of it all! I KNEW it was invasive! It was pretty dumb of me to decide to let it grow in the first place, pretty or not! OakIris, I definitely agree that if you use an herbicide, no matter which one you pick, they all have some sort of a problem or disadvantage. I, also, try not to use them whenever possible, but there are times when, for me, there’s no other option. Here are a few pics I took yesterday! My front yard is, literally, turning into the new Aspen Pando! I’ve been fighting my neighbor’s aspen trees ever since I moved in here, and, in this case, the only alternative to using an herbicide is to BOMB my neighbor’s aspens—which would inadvertently include his house! It’s not possible to pull them out—no matter how often you pulled them. The roots from his trees are still in MY yard, and the suckers will keep coming up into perpetuity! Here’s the situation! (Yeah, my grass looks awful! I didn’t want to mow until I got them sprayed so there’d be as much foliage as possible, and with the rain we had it wasn’t possible to spray them, and I finally just got it done yesterday! Right after I sprayed them—decided I wanted to Document them! Tonite I’m gonna water the heck out of them to get them sucking up as much of the WBG as possible.) From the neighbor’s side of my yard! The dandelions, other assorted milkweed, and other assorted WEEDS are from the Weed Lot Neighbors BEHIND me! Before that house was foreclosed and left standing empty for a year+, I had had virtually ALL the weeds—except aspen trees!—gone from my grass! https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/PXqT8lNzQ9syFNJAVkrt4KdtHZHTh5d06Slth8pk5yQ?feat=directlink Looking toward my neighbor’s yard! Location of HIS trees in text on the pic! https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/X3ooWHX8AfOdgHkMo0R0GadtHZHTh5d06Slth8pk5yQ?feat=directlink From a little bit in front of his trees looking toward the street. The stump is “my pine” that died last year! https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/kiJS55iy80IyQpRB3bE0cKdtHZHTh5d06Slth8pk5yQ?feat=directlink And a “side” view to show how BIG they actually are! You really can’t see that in the other pics! https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/5LHffPo37QgpixQcyypCrKdtHZHTh5d06Slth8pk5yQ?feat=directlink No other options! Also, I have found a way to use WBG in my perennial beds—even when the weed is right in the middle of a good perennial plant. A few years ago I took these pics so I could show people how I do it if it ever came up around here. In this case, too, there was no other option. Or, I guess you could say there was an option, but that option would have been to dig the whole plant up in order to be able to get the whole root of the weed—which was a thistle—out of the ground, and then to replant the whole—big—plant! That wasn’t gonna happen! Here’s a pic of the thistle in the MIDDLE of my (good) plant. https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/Ilh2INAPjBhE1nsFp34gMsK0nZGRGfHLEy4-V3DuEj0?feat=directlink What I do is to cut a small hole (just big enough for what I need to do) in the corner of the bottom of a plastic bag (I use non-zipper ones—they’re cheaper and easier to handle), and then I pull the entire weed up into the bag, “secure” the bottom of the bag where the hole meets the ground—usually by pushing the plastic slightly into the soil, and then, after being sure ALL of the weed is inside the bag I spray enough to wet all the foliage with a pressure sprayer (I think it would be really hard to keep the spray in the baggie with a spray bottle). Then I leave the top of the bag open for a day or so, so the plant can keep “growing” and draw the herbicide down into the roots, and then I usually close the top of the baggie and let it Stew In Its Own Juices! Kind of like Zach’s solarization system! I leave the baggie in place till I’m sure the entire plant is dead—or until it starts to grow again, in which case I give it another spritz of WBG. With this particular “weed,” one application (of WBG, not RU) was enough to send it to that Great Weed Cemetery in the Sky—or wherever it is! With bindweed (I only have an occasional “individual” one at this point) I wrap the vine around my fingers into a little “role” and tuck it into the baggie. (One other thing! If you use an herbicide and accidentally get it on a “good” plant, if you rinse it off immediately it won’t do any harm. Just rinse it off BEFORE it dries!) Here’s a pic of the thistle “in the baggie,” about to Meet Its Maker! https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/abquB3E3LFGyx5o5jGytvcK0nZGRGfHLEy4-V3DuEj0?feat=directlink In other situations with weeds just “near” perennials, I’ve used things like cottage cheese type containers with the bottom cut out—or anything that’s the right size that I can cut the bottom out of. A couple times I used a club cracker box—just folded the flaps on the bottom up into the box, put it over the weed, firmly into the soil, sprayed, waited a day or so, and then closed the flaps on the top of the box! (It kind of looked like I was trying to grow Club Crackers in my garden!!!) When I was desperately trying to get rid of the Mexican Evening Primrose, I took a large sheet of cardboard and held up against the (big) plants that were immediately next to the primrose—firmly on the ground, sprayed them, waited a couple minutes for them to dry, and pulled the cardboard out. So anything that will keep from getting the spray on the “good” plants works. I’ve heard stories where some people claim the herbicide can somehow transmigrate from the roots of the weeds you’re trying to kill into the roots of the good plants you want to save—but I’ve sure never had that happen, and as you can see, I’ve done it, literally, in the middle of a “good” plant! So it is possible, and I do it in cases where “pulling” just isn’t an option. Hope some of this helps if you ever get to the point where you feel you don’t have any other options. Skybird P.S. There IS a “Grass B Gon” that’s supposed to kill grasses but not broadleaf plants, but I’ve never tried it....See MoreWeed B Gon & Weed & Feed near new trees
Comments (21)I use Milorganite in the spring as well, for summer and fall I use the Scott's Turfbuilder product designed for that season. I am by no means a lawn expert though, these are just easy to find, relatively inexpensive products that do the job well enough for me. I'm confident you could kill the ivy (and not your trees) if you have the time and patience. Again I'd suggest trying the Weed B Gon Chickweed Clover & Oxalis concentrate in an Ortho Dial N' Spray hose end sprayer. Just pick a calm day and get down low to avoid spraying the tree trunks and leaves. If the ivy is anything like wild violet it will take a couple of applications but it will work eventually. Then like you mentioned you'll have to rake out the dead ivy and reseed the bare patches. But as others have said, a weed-free (or even weed sparse) lawn is a huge commitment so I don't blame you for hiring it out--if you can find someone to call you back. Last thing I'll say is that no matter how diligent you are about your own lawn, if your neighbors aren't equally diligent you will always have some of their dandelions, clover, ivy, etc. filtering into your lawn. So I've lowered my expectations and live with a semi-weed free lawn after 13+ years at my current house....See MoreTenacity vs. Weed-b-Gon
Comments (17)"As necessary." For most things, like chickweed or dandelion, one shot of WBG or Tenacity will take it out and that's that. If you blanket spray, I only recommend doing so just before planting with grass seed. Otherwise, new weeds will simply sprout in the newly-available and very attractive open spaces. On stuff like P. annua and P. trivialis, there I'd follow the Tenacity label. Sturdy stuff might require a second application after 2 to 3 weeks, as might a new stand of grass. I try to avoid that and never recommend it as it can harm fescues and even KBG will turn ghostly white and look terrible before it finally recovers (and not all of it necessarily will). And again, pay attention to maximum usage. For spot spraying, you're not going to approach it. For Tenacity, 16 oz per acre per year is the maximum (call it 0.35 oz per thousand square feet of concentrate). More than that can get toxic to everything and even grasses won't tolerate usage at that level!...See Morereeljake
6 years agodanielj_2009
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