Tenacity is a specialty herbicide and is not for novices. Weed B Gon, which you can find at big box stores, kills a lot of weeds. The best approach is to use that first and Weed B Gon CCO for weeds regular Weed B Gon didn't get. At that point if there are weeds left, find out what they are and what will work on them. For pre-emergents, I'd recommend Dimension or prodiamine. Where you buy them isn't important. I've bought Dimension at a big box store. Prodiamine is mixed with water and sprayed with a pump sprayer. A bottle will last for several applications. Dimension is spread with a spreader like fertilizer.

Weed b Gon Chickweed, Clover, and Oxalis Killer is different from normal Weed b Gon, so look at the labels. Walmart should have it. Since you're new to this, here's some general guidance... Basics of Lawn Care After reading numerous books and magazines on lawn care, caring for lawns at seven houses in my life, and reading numerous forums where real people write in to discuss their successes and failures, I have decided to side with the real people and dispense with the book and magazine authors. I don't know what star their planet rotates around but it's not mine. With that in mind, here is the collected wisdom of the Internet savvy homeowners and lawn care professionals summarized in a few words. If you follow the advice here you will have conquered at least 50% of all lawn problems. Once you have these three elements mastered, then you can worry about weeds (if you have any), dog spots, and striping your lawn. But if you are not doing these three things, they will be the first three things suggested for you to correct. 1. Watering Water deeply and infrequently. Deeply means at least an inch in every zone, all at once. Infrequently means monthly during the cool months and no more than weekly during the hottest part of summer. Do not spread this out and water for 10 minutes every day. If your grass looks dry before the month/week is up, water longer next time. If that does not work, then you might have to water more than once per week during the summer's hottest period. Deep watering grows deep, drought resistant roots. Infrequent watering allows the top layer of soil to dry completely which kills off many shallow rooted weeds. You will have to learn to judge when to water your own lawn. If you live in El Paso your watering will be different than if you live in Vermont. Adjust your watering to your type of grass, temperature, humidity, wind, and soil type. It is worth noting that this technique is used successfully by professionals in Phoenix, so...just sayin.' The other factors make a difference. If you normally water 1 inch per week and you get 1/2 inch of rain, then adjust and water only 1/2 inch that week. 2. Mowing Every week mulch mow at the highest setting on your mower. Most grasses are the most dense when mowed tall. However, bermuda, centipede, and bent grasses will become the most dense when they are mowed at the lowest setting on your mower. In fact there are special mowers that can mow these grasses down to 1/16 inch. Dense grass shades out weeds, keeps the soil cooler, and uses less water than thin grass. Tall grass can feed the deep roots you developed in #1 above. Tall grass does not grow faster than short grass nor does it look shaggy sooner. Once all your grass is at the same height, tall grass just looks plush. 3. Fertilizing Fertilize regularly. I fertilize 5 times per year using organic fertilizer. Which fertilizer you use is much less important than numbers 1 and 2 above. Follow the directions on the bag and do not overdo it (unless you use organics in which case you may overdo it without fear of hurting anything). At this point you do not have to worry about weed and feed products - remember at this point you are just trying to grow grass, not perfect it. Besides once you are doing these three things correctly, your weed problems should go away without herbicide. Next time you need a preemergent herbicide, get one that specializes in herbicide rather than one mixed with fertilizer. All that fertilizer is wasted (or worse) this time of year. Despite what the weekend TV commercials will tell you, your lawn should not be fertilized until late May. If you fertilize now it will need it again in May, so just skip the early spring feed. What is worse about early feeding is that it forces the grass plants to use up stored nutrients from their roots. Then if you don't feed in May you have a disastrous summer. I should modify my guidance with that tidbit. Zoysia seeds and spreads very slowly. V-e-r-y slowly. If you have bare spots in April it might not fill in until the following April. And where do you live?

May is the third worst month to seed northern grasses in your area. Only July and June are worse. So that is part of the reason you have so many weeds. To someone's credit, though, I would have expected far more weeds than grass by this time of year. You're doing something right!! The garden center that sold you the seed in May should be off your list of future purchases, because they don't give good advice. Based on that I also question the quality of their recommended seed. You have plenty of time to overseed this year. Fall is the time to seed. New York is a big state. If you live in the north then start with the herbicide now to seed in early Sept. If you live in the south then you can wait a week or two and seed later in Sept. Seeding early in the fall gives the new grass time to come in and for you to evaluate whether you need to thicken it up with more grass seed. Go back and reread gardengal's first post in this topic. She has a very good way of explaining those concepts. There are many Weed-b-Gon products. "Basic" WBG is a 2,4-d product, at least in my neighborhood. A slightly different product is Weed-b-Gon Chickweed, Clover, and Oxalis Killer. That one has Triclopyr (longer wait period). Formulations for these products may vary from state to state as different regulations apply. I would suggest you read more here on this forum to see what you can learn about lawn care. You can't rely on TV ads to tell you when to do things. Here are some general concepts that have become common knowledge on this and other lawn forums. New seed (northern grasses) should be applied in the fall. Weed n Feed products rarely work as advertised. Spot spray herbicides work better. Deep and infrequent watering is the way to go. Frequent watering leads to shallow roots and general brownish appearance. Spring fertilizer should go down late, not early. Wait until May or late May. Fall winterizer goes down after the grass has stopped growing but before total dormancy (before you have regular freezes). For most this is around the end of November. Mulch mow always. The clipped grass returns valuable organic material to the soil. Mow most grasses at your mower's highest setting. This leads to deeper rooting. Deep roots take advantage of moisture and nutrients deeper in the soil.

Thanks everyone for the advice! Unfortunately they kind of gotten out of hand so I'll spot spray them here soon. I have some spectracide herbicide that I tested on one of the spurge plants to test and see if that will kill it. I did see at a local nursery they have a product called spurge power I believe by montetary.