This is for a new house, so there's no existing plumbing to consider. I know the pipes could be offset, like they do for wheelchair users, but that doesn't even seem necessary. All our cabinetry will be built by a local shop; our GC usually builds higher-end houses than ours, which I've seen, so I'm confident he has some cabinetmakers who can handle this. So, let me check my figures. If my 14" to the left of the center pipe is correct, we remove 3/4" for plywood carcass on that side, let's say a generous 1" on the left side of the drawers for their sides and clearance. And 2" on the right side for the drawer sides, 3/4" plywood vertical piece , and clearances. Frameless cabinetry, with undermount drawer slides. I've got 9.5" left as the interior drawer width. That is HUGE in that space. (Remember, I have 2 drawers now totally 8" and it's sufficient for my needs.) I think for sure I could have 8" interior dimension. And I'll have a stack of them. The ones below can be used by other people, since I can't reach them. jon: No offense here, but I don't understand why it would be difficult for a competent cabinetmaker to make this simple cabinet. What am I missing here? He doesn't have to make shaped drawers, like Blum's sink wraparound drawer. He just has to measure correctly. And he'll charge me more to measure accurately? Custom cabinet shops are surely used to building things a little different than what I can buy off the shelf. I guess if they want too much money, then DH, who is a relatively new cabinetmaker, can make it himself for a lot less money. He just finished one for another bath. I have furniture for him to build, so I don't want to sidetrack him on this project, but I can. And I can do the design work. This cannot be that hard. Also, the cabinet shop is getting the work for the entire house, with built-ins in kitchen, laundry, mudroom and 3 baths, including medicine cabinets and wall cabinets there. They should be able to make us a reasonable price on this.

I have an 18 inch cabinet stacked over a 33 inch with 5 inch crown. Our ceilings are just shy of 9 feet. Here is a photo of the boxes installed. Hopefully the doors will be going in tomorrow. I am a bit OCD on having things match up, so I personally wouldn't choose to have muntins in a single cabinet. Maybe consider doing the entire 36 inch cabinet in glass? I am too messy to do that, but in other's kitchens when used as a focal point it can look nice to break up the wall of wood. I tend to agree with the previous posters that a 13 inch may be too small. Once you add the door frames, the amount of glass showing will be tiny.

It appears that you won't be able to use a refigerator wider than 30". The 33" inch models I checked on Home Depot require at least a 2-1/2" space between the edge of the refrigerator and the wall in order to open the door 90 degrees. That exceeds your 35" limit. All these units, for example, should fit: Amana 18 cu. ft. Bottom Freezer Refrigerator GE 21 cu. ft. Bottom Freezer Refrigerator Amana 18 cu. ft. Bottom Freezer Refrigerator Be sure to check the specifications (and maybe check the model in a store if you can find it). Note: I also have a wall to the left of my refrigerator. The only way I could fit it was to use a model with a right-hand hinge. It's not as convenient as a left-hing model would be but I can open the doors beyond 90 degrees without them hitting anything. CR says top-freezer models are the most space-efficient. It has ratings. https://www.consumerreports.org/join

That is about 9' ceiling height, possibly 8'6" but do not think so. There is no way anyone here can even venture a guess as to the cost of a house based on the little info offered. Even if you had 100% drawings of the entire house it is still next to impossible for anyone to venture anything other than a complete wild a** guess.