I just mentioned on another forum that most hobby growers give all glory to the top of the plant, while it's the roots that serve as the plant's heart and do all the heavy lifting. As long as you don't have an insect infestation, we can prolly get your plant straightened out quickly, though it will take some guts on your part. Can you hang? ;o) If you're willing to do a full repot, which includes sawing off the bottom 1/3 of the roots, bare rooting, and then cutting off even more roots, concentrating on the largest, then adding all fresh soil, you can put your plant back on track. If that frightens you, or if for some reason you don't want to do that, the prognosis is a continued steady decline. Once plants become rootbound, it permanently and negatively affects growth, unless you take the initiative and correct the condition. Copy/pasted from one of my other posts: We know for certain that growth is negatively affected at about the time the soil/root mass can be lifted from the container intact. We also know that once the tree has reached this state of root congestion, growth is affected permanently, unless the root congestion is corrected. We know these things because tree growers have a vested interest in seeing that their trees put on caliper as quickly as possible. Dr Carl Whitcomb goes into some considerable detail about what the impact of being root bound has on growth. Practically speaking, after spending thousands of hours digging around in as many root balls, I can assure you his observations are accurate. You cannot expect a tree growing under root-bound conditions to grow to its genetic potential within the limits of other cultural factors, and it will not/cannot. When you regularly tend to root pruning and and replacement of collapsed soils, you offer your tree the opportunity to grow at as close to it's genetic potential as other cultural factors allow, but when you simply put a tree in a container & do nothing in the way of root maintenance, you deny that plant that same potential. On a scale of 0-10, with 0 being a dead tree and 10 being perfect vitality/growth, trees in containers are capable of somewhere around an 8. A scenario re the range of vitality: Trees that are repotted (includes soil change and root work) will vary over a 3 year period (between repots) and at some point soon after repotting will be capable of growing at a level of 8. They will decline to maybe a 5 as they become root bound. When you repot, they go right back to 8 again, so the trees can be maintained indefinitely at good vitality levels. Let's consider the tree that is NOT repotted. Some may feel that because they see a growth "spurt" after they pot up or scratch some fresh soil into the top few inches that all is well, but lets talk about that growth "spurt" It's not a spurt at all. It's simply a very stressed tree temporarily growing a little closer to it's potential, which has been misinterpreted as a spurt. *A tree starts at a vitality level of 8 and declines to a 5 over 3 years. * It's potted up and some of the vitality returns, but not all, so it's only growing at a level of 7. *Over 3 years, it declines to a 4; when potted up again, it can only muster a vitality level of 6. * It declines to a 3 and is potted up to a 5 * It declines to a 2, and is potted up to a 4 * It declines to a 1, and is potted up to a 3 * dead tree "What about the leaves? How can I get the leaves looking healthier?" The leaves only THINK they are in charge. Get the roots right & the leaves will follow. ;o) Al

How often are you watering? Was the soil still wet or was it dry when you dug into it? Roses from the garden center are often potted into less than desirable potting mix and it is possible that the rose is either too dry or too wet. The holes in leaves are probably an insect, but that shouldn't cause other leaves to turn yellow. I recommend planting it as soon as you can as that should solve most problems. If you can't plant it then try to move it into a shadier spot and keep an eye on the moisture levels in the pot.

Jyrl, That's a lovely F. benjamina. Expect it to drop leaves, sometimes a complete leaf drop. This is normal! Your tree awill adapt to its new environment in time and be very happy. The spot in which it is growing looks ideal to me. No additional light is needed, IMHO. Your tree will adapt to its new light level, whether it is more intense or less intense than its previous home. Turn it a half turn once a week. Leaf drop, either a leaf here or there, or a complete drop (F. benjamina are known to do complete leaf drops every so often), can occur any time of year, but most likely over winter...shorter day lengths. New leaves will come shortly. Your tree is not dead, or dying, just renewing itself! Watch out for spider mites. Sticky, wet looking leaves dripping sticky resin onto the floor/furniture below the tree are signs. There are effective organic controls like insecticidal soap. Good care, no stress, reduces the possibility of mites. Just maintain good cultural practices. No over watering, and fertilizing lightly only when actively growing. Fertilizing follows growth, not precedes it. Fertilize AFTER new growth starts on its own, stop/slack off when growth slows/stops. There should be at least a 4-6 month no fertilizing period every year when you just water. Excellent drainage, and never let it sit in water in its drip tray. Prune very lightly any time. Never take off more than 10% of the total green mass a year. I gave my nephew a 1M F. benjamina, 27 years ago that is a magnificent 2.5M tree today. It grows very well inside, in bright shade, no real, direct sunlight. F. benjamia are extremely tough, resilient house trees. Enjoy your tree. Moses

Your Fiddle Leaf Fig may benefit from proper water and nourishment. I highly suggest reading the following guide to ensure you are watering your Fiddle Leaf Fig properly. The Ultimate Guide to Watering your Fiddle Leaf Fig Tree