The gutter is half round aluminum and is attached with brackets. There are no exposed rafters so I guess the boxed cornice would describe the area next to the gutters. The brackets holding the gutters are attached to the decking under the shingles and must go over or under an aluminum drip edge which was installed when the roof was replaced. I see no way to avoid contact with the drip edge since is is an angle shape with each leg about 1.5 inches wide. So it is not unusual here - in fact all houses in the neighborhood have the same type roof, drip edge and gutters. In other words, if you tried to avoid contact with the drip edge, the gutter would have to be installed about 2 inches below the edge of the roof and a lot of thewater coming off the roof would probably miss the gutter and it would look strange.

I understand what he's saying there. I guess that is correct---a drip edge is to protect the roof and not really to protect the fascia board. But the roof is supposed to overhang the gutter in order to direct water into the gutter. So for him to say his only job was to protect the roof, well, I disagree. I don't think it's standard to bend the drip edge, at least, for a pro. He's just going to put it on there because of the warranty issues involved for him if he makes any modifications. If you were doing it, well, you'd do whatever it took to satisfy your needs. This is just my opinion and means nothing--but it seems that today's gutters are thinner than what they used to be. So you get gaps in the back of them against the fascia board. That's why I screwed down the back of mine, because there was a lot of gapping. Since WHEN is it normal for water to run down a fascia board???? Seems like another "french wave" statement to me. If that were the case, everyone's siding would be streaked in black stains. And before the days of pressure treated or aluminum fascias, everyone would be replacing gutter board every few years. That is such a crazy statement. It seems before you hire ANYONE to do ANYTHING you now have to sit down with them and tell them exactly what you want and expect in every little,tiny area. In my opinion roofers are not very good at seeing small problem areas and finding good solutions to them. I was just on a newer roof last year after a friend had water coming in over a couple dormers. That cavity between the roof of the house and the roof of the dormer was exposed. Only because the roofer took no care in that little problem area. ACK--it's no wonder some of us try to do most work ourselves!!!!

Yes the pillars are structural I am not sure if they are all needed but that will be determined by a pro. As for colors A nice shade of gray/ green with that roof and brick will be nice I would remove the shutters since most of them are too small anyway.Your gutters need to be the same color as the roof they are not a design element.Maybe just wood cladding for the pillars painted the same as the trim in the green some nice big planters by the door with seasonal plantings and then decide on a door color

Go with white. This gives more options for changing house exterior and trim colors without going through the aggravation and extra costs of painting the gutters. Moreover, once gutters are repainted, they're more susceptible to blowing off the secondary coats when the house is pressure washed/cleaned. Florida beach homes are often painted in vivid colors and gray will make this home more somber looking. One benefit with going gray is the blackish/grayish streaks that are inevitable on FL gutters will require less cleaning than white since less observable. This is caused by roof runoff carrying a combination of dirt and breakdown of the roofing materials over time. A periodic soft wash will prevent this streaking from building up over time. Also consider whether gutters are needed around the entire house, especially since your landscape is established. It appears you have a gutter over the front entry to your home. Just walk around the house to see if there are ruts in the yard caused by heavy rainfall coming off the roof. If you have exterior concrete slabs or pavers, these should be protected by gutters as they'll eventually be etched by the falling water if not. To me, gutters serve a useful purpose where they're needed but cause unnecessary problems and costs in areas where they're not needed. Living in coastal Florida means strong wind storms coming off the ocean during the summer months and a reasonable chance for a tropical storm or hurricane. Post-hurricanes, one often sees gutters ripped off homes or damaged by flying debris. It appears you have one or more large trees close to your home (or overhanging the roof), and leaf litter each year will generate gutter cleaning work. The point is to install gutters where they're needed to avoid incurring an unnecessary initial investment cost and ongoing maintenance costs. On my FL coastal home, I have gutters on 3 sides (front, rear, and one side) since my non-guttered side has plant beds which deflect the water runoff and those plants can use the extra water. Think about where the substantial storm water runoff will be diverted. Placing the downspouts next to the house can cause problems with the landscaped area becoming soggy and saturated with water which can also attract subterranean termites. Moreover, constantly wet areas around a concrete slab can cause structural problems. The way around this, if deemed a potential problem, is to plumb in an underground pipe under the downspout so the water is moved away from the house, preferably to an area that either drains well or landscaped for water loving plants. There are pop-up devices that attach to the underground pipe that pop-up to release the water and then return to the ground surface when the rain event is over. Good luck with your project.