Drip edge and fascia board
rosesr4me
16 years ago
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sdello
16 years agogreen-zeus
16 years agoRelated Discussions
How can i prevent fascia board from getting dirty and rotting?
Comments (13)Ok, I finally looked at almost the entire video---instead of the first 30 seconds or so. From about 1:15, the damage gets much worse. There are soffits---the horizontal sections under the area from the fascia to the wall of the house----but, are there vents in the soffit areas and are those vents clear into the attic----and is there sufficient exhaust area(roof vents/turbines/etc) for the air in the attic to escape? The best advice I can give---it is very difficult to determine the exact problem(s) over the Internet---is to find a competent roofer/company to inspect the roof and determine the best repairs. How to find a competent roofer/company? The longer a company has been in business, the more satisfied customers they have. Competent, experienced roofers will have a list of satisfied customers and addresses---go look at their work. Ask folks, there are competent roofers who work for less money and still do a good job---their customers will also be happy. The gotcha is anyone can say they are roofers---I've put shingles on houses using volunteers. Took us three Saturdays to do a house pro's would get done in a day and a half max---and I had 10-12 folks working. But, those were now houses(Habitat), not reroof jobs....See Morewhy does the fascia board rot even with drip edge?
Comments (17)millworkman: Proper installation is a necessity for a great many things. Poorly installed PVC trim can indeed mask other problems, but I have a hard time seeing that as a reason for not using it. Poorly installed wood trim can also mask problems as it rots in places hard to see from the outside. tlbean2004: Do not put PVC or anything else over wood. All that does is create a place for water to collect between two different materials. PVC is designed to be used alone as a replacement for wood. Will you ever have to replace it? Never is a very long time, but given correct installation, PVC trim will last much longer than wood. If your rot problems, however, were the result of improperly installed drip edge, etc., you may get good long life with wood once the problems are corrected. Rot resistant wood such as cedar or pressure treated is a good idea, but proper priming of all surfaces before installation is also very important....See MoreWater Drip Stain on Roof Fascia?
Comments (2)We currently do have installed a 2' piece of flat metal flashing about 1.5 inches wide (deep) to extend out underneath the shingles in those 2 areas but the stains are still appearing the fascia. What's odd is that one side is 'cleaner' than the other. A roofer I had come out, thinks it's just the way the wind pushes the rain against the fascia. Thus he was reluctant to add an even deeper piece of flashing because he thought the wind would just push & roll the water back underneath the extension & smack it on the fascia again. Thoughts?...See MoreValley flashing and drip edge for a low pitch asphalt shingle re-roof
Comments (9)Ichabod, we're in the desert southwest, but I probably should have expanded on that comment! Our annual average rainfall here is under 10". Snow does happen but is not common. Ice dams are not a problem here, for example, so local code does not require ice and water shield at the eaves, either. We recently had a wet 6" snow but that is fairly remarkable for us, down here in the southern part of New Mexico. Also to you and tlbean2004, thanks for your thoughts on the metal flashing. We may request metal valley flashings, with ice and water underneath. Metal flashings got the roof through 17 years with no problems, so I'm not sure why to abandon them now...unless the technology of modern underlayments has rendered metal valley flashings obsolete. I thought that was what the roofer was implying, and we weren't sure if that was correct. I'll admit I am also a bit more worried about this roof than I would be if it was not such a low pitch. So you folks are a big help. klem1, thanks for your explanation. Nope, no interest here in removing the 2x2 trim to try to treat the rafter tail end grain (DH would leave me if I suggested that) so it looks like the consensus is to keep a very wide metal flashing. I guess it will be less distracting when painted to match the wood. Our house was built in 1965 and I sure don't want to make uninformed decisions that lead to damage...all for the sake of looks. (As much as I dislike the look of the big drip edge.) I guess a smaller drip edge and rotted wood would not be very pretty, either. I need to figure out which ice and water shield product will work in our hot temperatures, if we want it under the metal valley flashing. One bid specifies GAF Weatherwatch (but the contractor isn't local.) I don't know how heat resistant that product is. I know Grace Ice and Water has the best reputation, but I was surprised to see the Grace website says that only their most expensive product, Grace Ultra, should be used in the desert southwest: Grace IWS Contractor's Guide So if the esteemed Grace Ice & Water Shield (regular product) will not stand up to desert southwest heat, I wonder how any of the (much less expensive) GAF ice and shield products would work. There are a few scary stories in some roofing forums about "bitumen bleed" when ice and shield products are used in higher temps than recommended. (Roofing is not for sissies, have you noticed?)...See Morerosesr4me
16 years agogreen-zeus
16 years agorosesr4me
16 years ago
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