Thanks klem1, we appreciate your input. I agree the end grain on the rafter tails could absorb moisture more easily, but since all of the rafter tail ends are covered by the wood trim (just under 2" square, you can see it in the photos above) I thought that rafter end grain would be somewhat protected. We're not hoping to go without any drip edge, of course, but does it really need to hang down 3/4" longer than the wood trim? We have not seen this on any other house, although admittedly I am having a very hard time finding many photos on the web of overhangs built just like ours.

Any thoughts on the valley flashing, for a roof with a 2 in 12 pitch? Should we stick with metal (possibly, specify ice and water shield under the metal?) I know low pitch roofs like this are generally considered tricky for shingles, so we want to do it right.

Any thoughts are greatly appreciated!

I would stick with the metal although i am no expert. I wish i had a drip edge like yours that goes all the way around the trim. I have several pieces of wood that have

started to rot because the wood is exposed to the rain that drips down it.

"but does it really need to hang down 3/4" longer than the wood trim? "

Maybe not but 3/8ths is about avarage for 4 in 12 so 1/2" is likly nessary with low pitch and 1/4tr less isn't going to change appearance much. Capillary action can and will pull water uphill,a margin is worthy considering the architectural rafters that could be damaged. If I felt the metal needed to be shorter I would look into treating the tails to make them impremeable if the 2x2 trim can be pulled off and reattached.

You don't say where you're located (e.g., is there snow), but around here, metal isn't used in valleys. Metal IS a good way to go, but I'd have the ice and water under it as well.

Ichabod, we're in the desert southwest, but I probably should have expanded on that comment! Our annual average rainfall here is under 10". Snow does happen but is not common. Ice dams are not a problem here, for example, so local code does not require ice and water shield at the eaves, either. We recently had a wet 6" snow but that is fairly remarkable for us, down here in the southern part of New Mexico.

Also to you and tlbean2004, thanks for your thoughts on the metal flashing. We may request metal valley flashings, with ice and water underneath. Metal flashings got the roof through 17 years with no problems, so I'm not sure why to abandon them now...unless the technology of modern underlayments has rendered metal valley flashings obsolete. I thought that was what the roofer was implying, and we weren't sure if that was correct. I'll admit I am also a bit more worried about this roof than I would be if it was not such a low pitch. So you folks are a big help.

klem1, thanks for your explanation. Nope, no interest here in removing the 2x2 trim to try to treat the rafter tail end grain (DH would leave me if I suggested that) so it looks like the consensus is to keep a very wide metal flashing. I guess it will be less distracting when painted to match the wood. Our house was built in 1965 and I sure don't want to make uninformed decisions that lead to damage...all for the sake of looks. (As much as I dislike the look of the big drip edge.) I guess a smaller drip edge and rotted wood would not be very pretty, either.

I need to figure out which ice and water shield product will work in our hot temperatures, if we want it under the metal valley flashing. One bid specifies GAF Weatherwatch (but the contractor isn't local.) I don't know how heat resistant that product is. I know Grace Ice and Water has the best reputation, but I was surprised to see the Grace website says that only their most expensive product, Grace Ultra, should be used in the desert southwest:

Grace IWS Contractor's Guide

So if the esteemed Grace Ice & Water Shield (regular product) will not stand up to desert southwest heat, I wonder how any of the (much less expensive) GAF ice and shield products would work. There are a few scary stories in some roofing forums about "bitumen bleed" when ice and shield products are used in higher temps than recommended.

(Roofing is not for sissies, have you noticed?)

I have done roofs with tin flashing that is at least 50 years old and it was still in good shape. And that is in ND where a roof is lucky to make it to twenty given the harsh conditions. 100 degrees in the summer to 30 below in the winter means if it works here it will work there. I don't think the ice and water shield is needed with the tin as to me it is an either or situation and for me I would use tin.

As for your drip edge what is your budget? I would look at copper drip edge and see if it could be had for a reasonable price. You would maintain your protection and it would compliment the unique design of your roof.

If they recommend the grace ultra in your area, it should work. If it does bleed then that should be on them to fix it. The waterproofing membrane is a good idea considering the low pitch, high wind can drive water under the shingles.

Thanks DG, we're planning to discuss the metal valley flashing when we meet next week with the roofer. We hadn't considered copper drip edge at all, so we'll look into that. Our insurance is paying for the re-roof, but we would consider spending additional out-of-pocket if it was a solution we felt good about...functionally, and cosmetically.

Thanks Vith, so far none of the roofers we've spoken with have even suggested using any of the Grace products, let alone the pricey Grace Ultra; I uncovered those products in my own research. So far all the roofers we've spoken with specify other (less expensive) brands. Tomorrow I'm going to phone GAF and Owens Corning, and ask their customer service folks about any special recommendations for underlayment products in the desert southwest.

Many of the roofers working in our city are from out of state, due to the big hail storm we had a few months ago. Some of them have never roofed in our hot climate, so I'm trying to make sure they don't specify a product that works fine in Wisconsin...but not so well here. (I'm probably worrying over nothing, but I'll sleep better once I run this down.)

We really thought we'd stick with local roofers (familiar with our climate) but even the good local companies are now running so many crews, and hiring so many new guys to do the bids...it's really hard to get the ear of an experienced person. Many good local guys don't return calls at all, and some have sent out reps that know less about roofing than I do (and that's not much.) Sure has been an interesting experience to live through a major hail event.

I appreciate being able to post here for help.